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When spoken in Portuguese, Paraty sounds like "para ti", which means "for you", and that is exactly the idea and the atmosphere of the city, a place to be enjoyed for its quiet pace, its history and its marvelous beaches and natural attractions. |
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Paraty is an historic city located halfway between the metropolises of São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. It is believed that the city was founded between 1540 and 1560. In addition to is historic interest, the city offers beautiful beaches and the calm atmosphere of a Brazilian country town. The best way to enjoy Paraty is on foot. In some areas in the center of town autos are forbidden, but it is possible to visit most of the places of interest by walking. |
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Once there, take some time to walk along the old streets in the historic center of Paraty. Paved with sand and dark cobblestones and surrounded by houses painted in white with blue windows, they are an attraction in themselves, and many have not been rebuilt in 250 years. The original houses were made of rounded stones called cabeça de negro (black man's head) because of its dark color, it shape and size. Some streets form peculiar corners with three streets intersecting to surround a house on three sides.
As the old neighborhood is so close to the ocean, a channel in the center of the main path drains rainwater to the sea as well as ocean waters that invade during high tides. During Colonial times, Paraty was the final destination of Portugal's Golden Path from which the Portuguese transhipped gold from their colony back to Europe.
To learn more about the city's history, a stop of interest as described in Wikipedia is, the Casa da Cultura Paraty (House of Culture) which occupies an historic 18th century house originally built in 1754. It was opened to the public in 2004 and holds a permanent exhibition of local history and culture. In the Salon of Indigenous Culture, visitors can see 'carpets' made of colored sawdust and flower petals used during the festival of Corpus Christi in June. The largest is almost 92 square feet. The 'carpet' is protected by glass so that visitors walk on it as they enter." |
Cachaça: Brazilian Fire Water:
In addition to the architectural interest, some houses offer the visitor a place to taste Brazilian Cachaça, a potent alcoholic liquor made from sugar cane. Pinga is the local name for Cachaça and is the spirit used to make the famous Brazilian Caipirinha cocktail.
The fiery beverage has a long history. In 1600, the seaside city housed more than 100 alembics, stills used to produce Pinga, from sugar cane. Today only six of these distilling devices remain in Paraty. From August 19 through 22, a festival dedicated to the beverage takes place every year. This year, 2010, the event is called the "28th Festival da Pinga"
Editor's Note: In homage to the crystal clear but very potent potent drink, a carnival song originating in the 1950's and popular to this day is called, "Você Pensa que Cachaça é Água". The words sung by revelers make the point that, "You may think Cachaça is like water, but Cachaça is not water--NO!"
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According to Brazilians, Pinga is consumed to whet the appetite. So, sit in a bar or a restaurant and taste it in preParatyon for lunching on Caiçara cuisine (the food of the region of São Paulo). The recipes are prepared with fish and seafood mixed with some fruits--normally bananas--which is a very common blend all along Brazil's coasts. Caiçara is a term used to describe rednecks from São Paulo, who live along the coast.
Paraty likes its festivals. In addition to the Festival da Pinga and at the beginning of the same month, there is a book and authors' party called "Festa Literária Internacional de Paraty" or FLIP (International Literary Party of Paraty). For those who wants some music, there is the Bourbon Festival, a celebrations of Jazz usually held from May 27 through May 30. |
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The city limits include 50 islands. To visit these natural attractions it is necessary to go on a type of schooner called an Escuna, which takes passengers on a five-hour circuit. The ride starts between 10:30 and 11:00 am and returns to the mainland at close to 5:00 pm. These are not sightseeing tours, as many of the stops are privately owned, and visitors may not be allowed to disembark at some of them. So, think of them as sightseeing tours to enjoy the view with the possibility of disembarking briefly at certain ports for a quick look.
On some islands the lush vegetation surrounds interesting structures, both historical and new. As Paraty was a route taken by wealthy colonials, forts were constructed for their safety; some included warehouses, prisons or fortifications to protect the ships against pirates. Nowadays, they are empty, serving as a reminder of other times.
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The Island Transport Escunas:
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The waters over which the schooner skims are unusually clear. White soft sands are clearly visible as well as colorful fish and starfish along the ocean floor, in some cases as much as 10 meters below the ship's hull. In some places looking straight down is like gazing down a well, giving the illusion of peering down a clear tube surround by darker waters. With 10 locations recommended for SCUBA diving, Paraty ise considered by some to be Brazil's diving capital.
It should be noted that the five-hour trip itinerary changes during the week, each day listing different stops, but each stop takes no longer than 30 minutes. Some islands can be visited every day, and some of these are: Fishing Island, Cuttlefish beach, Grocery Island, Long Island, Red beach and Blue lagoon. .
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The Beaches:
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The city offers 43 beaches, some on the mainland, while others are on the islands. One is Trindade, a neighboring beach that is situated 30 kilometers from the entrance to Paraty. Historically, the place was a harbor for pirates who preyed on the Brazilian shore communities. During the 1970's the area became a hippie paradise. Even today, this is a popular place to crash as can be seen by the quantity of camping areas accessible from Paraty.
The 30-kilometer drive insulates Paraty from this particular beach scene. The focal point of Trindade Beach is a vila, which belong to the town and serves as a bar and hostel. There is only one street and few houses, some built almost on the sand. The area is perfect to practice surfing, diving, naturism (at "Naked Beach") and camping, but if you are intending to pitch your tent, be careful about the mosquitoes.
Another interesting destinations reachable only by boat is Mamanguá Bay, a tropical fijord and the only one of its kind in Brazil. It extends eight kilometers from the shore into the land, framed by mountains on both sides. One of these is 400-meter-high Sugar Loaf, named in homage to the original one in Rio de Janeiro. It is possible to climb this Sugar Loaf. From the base of the peak it is a steep climb to reach the top. On the way back, visitors can stop for lunch at an island restaurant followed by a swim at one of the many island beaches.
Another island worth visiting is Araújo Island with its 198-meter-high peak. It is the second biggest isle in Paraty Bay.
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The Waterfalls:
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Besides the islands, the region is also famous for the quantity of waterfalls that can be reached from the highway that connects Paraty to Cunha (a neighboring city). There are five in Paraty: Poço do Inglês (English well), Pedra Branca (White Stone), Tobogã (Slider), Tarzan, Andorinhas (Swallows) and one in close by Trindade: Codós.
The number of linns or gorges cut through hard rock have given the name of "water circuit" to this area. The first gorge is called "Bananal" and is formed by a 15-meter cut through the sinuous Perequé-Açu River that ends in Paraty. On the same path is White Stone Waterfall. With several linns and many wells and natural pools, it is close to the ruins of the first power plant that provided power for the banana flour factory once owned by Prince Dom João de Bragança e Orleans, a descendent of Brazil's royal family. Another attraction is Iriri, a junction of three streams, forming two placid natural pools with crystal clear waters.
Closer to Our Lady of Penha Chapel on the "waterfall circuit" is Penha also known as Toboggan linn. The water cascades over a huge smooth rocky formation and flows into a pool. The natives like to surf it. For non-surfers, it is advisable to make the trip in a seated position in order to avoid injury. Also on the waterfall path, it is possible to visit Mill linn or Ingracia den.
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Historic Fortifications:
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A fort was built in 1630 to protect all these beauties and the city that was an important commercial warehouse for the gold removed from Minas Gerais Province and brought to the coast for shipment back to Portugal,. The fort also served to house Portuguese immigrants and was situated on high ground for defense against the Indians.
With the economic decline of the golden period, the place was abandoned until 1822 when it was rebuilt and named, "Defensor Perpétuo" ("Perpetual Defender" in English) in homage to Dom Pedro I, the emperor and perpetual defender of Brazil. He was so honored as the ruler responsible for bringing independence to Brazil. |
A Retreat from the Big City Pace:
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For an interesting change of pace from the frenetic big city pace of São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, a visit to easily accessible Paraty offers a great opportunity to enjoy a picturesque small town with a rich and authentic historical atmosphere combined with a lush tropical environment and a traditional culture that extends to the production of Pinga. practically the national drink of Brazil.
The city is midway between Rio and Sao Paulo; you need 4+ hours by bus to reach it from Rio and 6 from Sao Paulo. Paraty is blessed by a refreshing sea breeze and is a place where time passes slowly and calmly while you enjoy a city you may well come to believe was built especially "para ti", just for you. |
PHOTO CREDITS: All photos by Luciana Matos, excepting those credited to EMBRATUR, the official tourism organization of the government of Brazil. |
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