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North America





San Antonio, Texas is a large, sophisticated city with an easy-going life style, and a festive spirit. San Antonio's heritage combines all that is Texas, the South West and Mexico and comes out with its own original personality.


By Mary Ashcraft



At the edge of the Mexican Badlands with Mesquite and low growing oaks and in the hill country, with its many spring fed streams and grass where sheep and cattle graze, is a very special city called San Antonio. San Antonio's heritage combines all that is Texas, the South West and Mexico and comes out with its own original personality. It is the only major city that existed in Texas before Texas won its independence from Mexico in 1836 so, before it flew the Stars and Stripes, it flew the flag of Mexico. The National University of Mexico, which is the oldest institution of higher learning in the Hemisphere, has its campus in San Antonio, and eighty percent of its Latino population can trace a direct ancestry to Mexico.





Though Spanish is spoken as often as English, there is another element that blends this ethnic historical mix. Early on, there was an enclave of successful German businessmen that made their fortunes and settled in the south part of town where they built impressive homes and named the area King Wilhelm after the Prussian King, and French nuns served afternoon tea to ladies of refinement. San Antonio has embraced the interesting combination of American, Spanish, Mexican, German and French cultures, and the outcome is that San Antonio, unlike other Texas cities, has a very European or Mediterranean flavor.





San Antonio could definitely be called a Maverick city in Texas. It is, after all, where the word originated. Samuel Maverick, the largest landowner in Texas, went his own way to the degree that he let his large herd of cattle roam the plains unbranded in a time when all cattle were branded for recognition. He figured that if all other cattle were branded, his would be identified by their lack of brand. San Antonio is a large independent minded city, but the feeling is that of a small town community where many of the sights are centrally located and visitors find it easy to explore on their own.





To satisfy the festive spirit of San Antonians, there are at least two fiestas celebrated each month. The most famous one is in mid-April with a non-stop celebration of parades, sporting events, parties, and special events (over one hundred) revealing the fascinating history of San Antonio. One could almost say that the city goes on one long party each year. It is very family oriented, and there are lots of things for children to enjoy. As the popularity of golf grows, so does San Antonio's reputation for golfers with its more than 40 public, private and military courses and practice facilities. With 300 days of sunshine each year, it means that year-round golfing can almost be taken for granted. There are museums with exhibits from the haunted to the classic, historical sights, art galleries, ethnic art and craft shops, cantinas with music, fun parks, rodeos, and the famous River Walk.





From the beginning, as might be expected, the San Antonio River has continued to play an important part in the daily life of the city. Two and one half miles of the river stretching through the downtown area from the Municipal Auditorium and Conference Center on one end to the King William Historic district on the other is where one will find the Paseo Del Rio or River Walk. Steps lead down from the street level, about twenty feet, leaving noisy traffic, and cars behind to encounter a romantic walk where strollers pass under Cypress and Oak trees growing on each side of the river. Branches of the trees lean gracefully over the water with strings of small colored lights hanging from them. Barges ply the river filled with visitors and Mariachis while tourist guides point out places of interest along the way. On either side of the river, are flagstone surfaced walks lined with restaurants and European style alfresco cafes, plus specialty shops, 22 gracefully arched bridges that cross the river and the mellow sounds of strolling Mariachis as they play and sing the golden oldies of Mexican music. Some compare the ambience of River Walk to that of the Seine in Paris.





Many historical points of interest and museums may be easily reached from Riverwalk. The National monument, the Alamo (Mission San Antonio) is an easy stroll from the River Walk where an heroic battle took place between a contingent of 188 Texans and 5,000 Mexicans in 1836. The collected bones said to be of the legendary heroes of the Alamo, Colonel James Bowie, frontiersman David Crockett, and Colonel William Travis were saved from a burning pyre and can be found in a white marble crypt in San Fernando Cathedral. The stately Gothic revival San Fernando was added to the front of a Spanish Baroque church that was completed in 1749, and it is the oldest cathedral sanctuary in the United States.





Steps lead up from the river's edge to historic La Villita with a complex of twenty-seven restored buildings on the site of a Coahuiltecan Indian village. In its two hundred years, it has been a settlement of squatters in ramshackle huts, tradesmen, and followers of the Spanish soldiers. Now, artists and craftspeople fill the old buildings with their weaving, jewelry, pottery, boutique fashions and paintings.







There are five Spanish Missions strung along the San Antonio River that are the oldest and most important structures in the United States. These were Spanish outposts built by the Franciscans, who brought with them, the first cattle to the area along with their religion and a desire to convert the heathen. The best known of the missions is the Alamo or Mission San Antonio. Then, there are Mission San Jose de Espada, Mission San Juan de Capistrano, and Mission La Concepcion. They are all active churches with attended by the local people, and visitors are welcome to the services. Mission San Jose is the most complete of the old missions, with a Sunday Mass incorporating the singing and playing of a Mariachi. San Jose's interior, unadorned altar, except for vases holding white lillies, and plain wooden cross, are as striking in their simplicity as many a grand cathedral's are in their extravagance.





Ten blocks from the Alamo is the colorful Market Square which was originally a farmers market where farmers brought fresh produce from the fields to exchange and sell. As the market attracted more and more curious tourists, the demand for produce declined. Now, the broad pedestrian walkway is lined with art galleries, large and small shops with a blend of merchandise that is representative of the cultural, artistic and ethnic influences of Texas and Mexico. It is a great place to buy folk and craft items. A standout landmark of Market Square is Mi Tierra restaurant. The Cortez family opened it in 1943 and it is as much an event as it is a restaurant. Along with spicy Mexican food and Mariachis, is the party atmosphere of Mi Tierra. Hanging from the ceilings in the large dining rooms and glistening overhead are piñatas, strings of colored lights, and sparkling tinsel. In one dining room are three impressive floor to ceiling murals depicting the history of Mexico up to the present time. The restaurant has a bar and a small bakery where you can buy a bunuelo, drink a Margarita and join the party. Market Square is easily reached from any downtown area location, including all major hotels. Two amusing ways to reach Market Square are by horse drawn carriage or by San Antonio bus that looks like a trolley and is very inexpensive.





San Antonio is home to the famous Shamu, the killer whale. He lives and swims in the Sea World and Theme Park. Kids can go wild in the Shamu Happy Harbor. It is a three-acre playground with a large sandbox, and structures, which encourage kids to explore, to climb, and to walk the jungle-like swinging bridges. Kids rule at Sea World with radical rides, and awesome animal attractions. Sea World claims that no other place in the world offers a Show Park, a Rides and Slides Park, a Water Park, a Haunted Lighthouse, and the world's largest marine life adventure all in one location. Also, there are three degrees of roller coaster thrills starting with the Shamu Express, then the Steel Eel, and the king of inverted steel coasters, the Great White. There is an Interactivity program for enthusiastic visitors who want the ultimate experience to make a personal connection with Beluga whales, sea lions or dolphins. Sea World provides wet suits for those adventurous visitors who jump in the water with the animals, feed them, learn to give them hand signals, and safely touch them,





A trip to San Antonio might not be complete without seeing a rodeo. The famous rodeo season kicks off with a heart-stopping, bone-breaking, Xtreme Bull riding contest. Top hands in the country come to the ring, fit and ready to ride for the prize. The saying in rodeo circles is that, "the bigger the wreck, the louder the roar," and last season at the SBC Arena, the noise from the crowd almost buckled the roof. In between bucking bulls and limping cowboys is a Mutton Busting contest where small fry bull busters in training climb aboard sheep and ride for the trophy.





To attend the rodeo in Texan style you might want to pay a visit to Lucchese Boots in business since 1880. The Lucchese brothers pioneered the speciality footwear for the range known today as the "Cowboy Boot," and making boots for the original Texas Rangers to the late John Wayne. The Little's Boots Co. has been a family operated business since 1915, and is known for its quality custom western boots. Both companies are recognized world wide for their attention to detail and fit. The "Cowboy Boot" is such a true symbol of the history of San Antonio that even their classy shopping mall has a pair of giant, neon-lit, cowboy boots as a beacon for shoppers to find their way.





Then its off to Paris Hatters for a quality custom-fitted, and custom-shaped western hat steamed and shaped on the premises. Hats are sized to match the customer's height, weight, shoulder width, and overall stature. Many celebraties buy their favorite hats at Paris Hatters. Eric Clapton favors fedoras, Luciano Pavarotti likes the Panamas, Pope John Paul II was happy with his Stetson, while Billy BobThornton, Kevin Costner and Tommy Lee Jones like a customary cowboy hat. Abe Cortez, the owner, says, "What tops our list of compliments, is when someone says they want the Paris Hatter's name inside the hat, just like their grandaddies?"





San Antonio has a long history as a meeting place of cultures. It has deeply rooted traditions and a 21st century cosmopolitan flair. Famed author Samuel Clemens, a.k.a.Mark Twain summed it when he said, "San Antonio is one of America's four unique cities." As San Antonians might say today to would-be visitors,"hasta luego," or see you soon.

For additional information about San Antonio, try: The San Antonio Convention and Visitors Bureau, 800-447-3372

Photo Credits: Mary Ashcraft; San Antonio Convention & Visitors Bureau; La Cantera Golf Club; Cattle Brands & CowboyShowcase / Lee Raine...



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