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 Oddly enough an island always remains a place of mystery even if one walks every inch of it. It rises out of the ocean, breaking the horizon, deceiving the eye as to its size and shape, and at the same time entices one to come closer and explore it.
Born eons ago in North America during the ice age, there is a picturesque island off the coast of Maine whose deep-water coves teem with a variety of fish including the lobster for which this New England state is famed. Native American Indians called the island Monchiggan, the Algonquin Nation word for "out to sea island". With a fascinating history, this secluded island has managed to remain off the beaten track, perhaps one reason why it became a favored summer place for artists in the 19th century and remains so today. It is easily reached on a short ferry ride departing from Port Clyde, itelf scenic drive of about one-hour south of Rockland, Maine. |
The Past of the Monhegans:
Monhegan Island is isolated about eleven miles off the coast of Maine and was thought by sailors of old to look like a Whale surfacing the water. It measures only 1.7 miles long and 0.7 miles wide, has a landscape of exceptional beauty and drama, and has been explored through the centuries by adventurers from around the world.
Throughout its colorful history, fishermen used the island as a drying and boat repair place. It was at the beginning a British fishing camp, and served as a safe haven for English settlers escaping to the island during King Phillip's war between the French and English.
Inevitably, the name of the island brings to mind American author James Fenimore Cooper's "Last of the Mohicans". Uncas, the fictionalized title figure of the novel was an actual chief of the Mohegan tribe, but he had no known connection whatsoever to Monhegan Island, and neither was he the last of his tribe, which still exists in Connecticut.
In real life, Samoset, a subordinate chief of the Abenaki American Indian tribe living off the coast of Maine, was the first Native American to communicate with the English Pilgrims at newly settled Plymouth Colony by walking into the encampment and surprising the English by asking if they had any beer for him. His broken English was learned while trading with English fisherman on Monhegan Island, and obviously he learned the important things first.
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Another main character in the real life history of the area was Captain John Smith, a noted member of the Pilgrim Colony of historic fame. He visited Monhegan Island and stayed long enough to do some gardening, He is quoted as having said, "I made a garden on the top of the rocky isle of Monhegan in May that grew so well that it served for sallets (salads) in June and July." There is a plaque on the island to commemorate his visit. |
The Present of the Monhegans:
In the small area that is Monhegan, Mother Nature has outdone herself in its variety. There are deep rocky coves with 160-foot straight cliffs, Cathedral Wood which is a forest of Pine and Spruce trees with seventeen miles of rustic trails that one can trek through the forest and meadows, from the top of Lighthouse Hill to Lobster Cove at the edge of the sea. Migrating birds rest here on their long journeys making it a real boon for bird watchers, and Harbor Seals lie around enjoying the sunshine on Duck Rocks.
The lighthouse is perched on the top of Lighthouse Hill with views of the Atlantic Ocean as far as the eye can see, while the lighthouse keeper's cottage next to it is now the Monhegan Museum. The museum features native artifacts and exhibitions of paintings of the island and the sea in general painted by amateur and famous artists, and many of these serious amateurs and well known artists spend their summers here.
The community association led by resident Theodore Edison, son of the inventor, in 1954 decided that the island should stay as close to its natural state as possible, so rules were put into place to help keep it the way it was at that time. As soon as you step off the ferry boat, you feel the difference. The air seems fresher, the walking paths a little wilder, and you think you must be farther out to sea than the eleven miles from the coast.
Perhaps it feels that way because there are no fast-food places, no streetlights, no sidewalks, no banks, no doctor, no cars or trucks except for the fishermen's vehicles, and one available restroom for visitors. Not surprisingly, many houses and one inn adhere to the original rule of no electricity and continue to use kerosene lamps for their lighting. Monhegans proudly say, "It is a special way of life".
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Scattered across the island are cottages with picket fences and flower gardens, and artist’s studios. The island is such a composite of that which is typically New England that it calls to artists, both professional and amateur to capture its original charm. In fact, the island has been famous for its art colony since the late 1800's. Artists began to discover Monhegan in 1890 thanks to glowing reports by artist Robert Henri, painter, teacher and founder of New York's Ashcan school of art. Two of his students, Rockwell Kent and George Bellows were frequent visitors, along with their friend Edward Hopper. Artist Jamie Wyeth’s house on the island was actually built by Rockwell Kent. Joining Jamie were his famous grandfather N.C. Wyeth and his father Andrew Wyeth.
Recognizable scenes of Monhegan can be found in many of their paintings. The daily ferry boats were soon also crowded with amateur artists carrying easels, wearing sunhats, and sturdy shoes to try and capture the pounding surf, fishing boats, simple wood frame houses, the catch of the day, and storms at sea on canvas. Artists from as far away as Germany, France and England feel the call to come spend the summer, explore and, of course, paint. |
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Even though lobster is fished year round on Monhegan, the official lobstering season begins October 1st with a celebration called Trap Day. This is a community event of long standing where the lobstermen work together in loading and readying the boats. Meetings are held every day for a month to make certain that all the fishermen will be ready at the same time for the task. Working together means that there is more chance of having a 'smooth setting' as they set the traps once again on the ocean floor. Visitors are welcome to come and watch the preparations. |
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| There are no planned entertainments on the island. You can check the island bulletin board for the latest gossip and local advertising, absorb nature at its best with a short hike through the woods, or make your own entertainment perhaps with a pair of binoculars, a camera or a sketch pad and easel. Without the usually intrusive noises of the average city, the only sounds to be heard are the crashing of the ocean pounding the rocks and the cry of sea-gulls overhead. Overnight guests may see a sky full of stars without the annoying interference of ground lights or city air, and at certain times near the end of summer, the eerie beauty of the Northern Lights can be seen. |
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For day visitors there is a place for a simple lunch, and it's only a few feet from the dock where you catch the ferry boat for the mainland. There is nothing fancy about The Barnacle. Built around the turn of the century, it is a sturdy little weather-bleached building typical of the area with a narrow front porch and window boxes full of flowers.
Inside this one room eatery, you can enjoy your sandwich, salad or fruit pie on tables covered with simple checkered vinyl cloths. Overhead tacked to the ceiling float some of the original colorful Manhegan lobster buoys. Glass cases are full of breads and sweets freshly baked by ladies on the island. As it gets closer to the time to leave, people began to gather around The Barnacle to catch the ferry and catch one last grand view of the harbor and ships sailing around the island. |
Accommodations:
Monhegan Island is ideal for a day trip from the mainland. For visitors with more time to spend, it provides a grand destination for a quiet escape. For those wishing to stay overnight, there are several types of accommodations. Lodging on the island is varied and interesting ranging from a turn of the century hotel with antique furniture, but no closets, New England's last 19th century summer boarding house still using kerosene lamps, to private homes offering charmingly decorated rooms.
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Getting There:
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Year round, the Monhegan-Thomaston Boat Line ferry boats leave Port Clyde three times daily for the island. Around the corner from Port Clyde is the Marshall Point lighthouse. It is not the original 1898 lighthouse tower that housed the warning bell, but the original bell is still there, displayed on the lawn in front of the lighthouse residence, now a museum. In 1971, the original bell tower was torn down, replaced and brought into the 20th century by adding an electric foghorn. Of course, there was less work for the lighthouse keeper. He would no longer have to wind the crank that motivated the heavy clock hammer to strike the rim of the bell every 20 seconds to warn passing ships. However, it took the old-timers on Marshall Point a long time to accept the blast of the fog-horn that replaced the familiar sound of the bell.
Reservations for the ferry are essential in the summer. Call, write or email the company for your place on the Laura B, or Elizabeth Ann.
Mailing Address:P.O. Box 238, Port Clyde, Maine 04855
Telephone: 207-372-8848Fax: 207-372-8547
E-Mail: barstow@monheganboat.com
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