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| Rockland, Maine in the northeastern United States is one of a few places in the world where one can wake up in the morning, look out to the harbor and see the amazing sight of a large number of historic sailing vessels. It is like watching a floating museum of schooners and other tall ships. A hundred years ago, there were thousands of them plying their trade up and down the coast of New England. Most of them were fishing or cargo boats though some served as guide or pilot boats. Schooners were built larger and sturdier as they sailed farther out to sea to fish on to the Grand Banks and in more dangerous waters. Inevitably though, times changed and other faster boats took their place, and some of the old timers were allowed to crumble into ruin and sink in the harbor. Fortunately, farsighted seamen have rescued and rebuilt a large number of the original tall wooden schooners. Some are 130-years-old and are now taking passengers out on the water for just a little taste of what it must have been like to sail one these grand ladies in her heyday. Each one has a history with many interesting stories, and what a beautiful and nostalgic sight they are. |
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| One that stands out among the fleet is the painstakingly restored and meticulously maintained schooner American Eagle. All summer long and into the fall every year, she sails the coastal waters of northern New England and into Canadian waters, carrying as many as 26 passengers along to sample the old sailing days in voyages that range from four-day to 11-night adventures. One memorable and challenging event that is a highlight in American Eagle's itinerary every September is the schooner race that takes place in Gloucester, Massachusetts, some 115 nautical miles from the American Eagle's berth in Rockland, Maine. |
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| The American Eagle, was launched originally in 1930 as the fishing schooner Andrew and Rosalie. At that time the Gloucester Daily Times wrote. "Standing at her bow, arms laden with flowers, and grasping a bottle of something we used to see much of before Prohibition, Miss Rosalie Murphy, daughter of Captain Murphy, who will command the craft, smashed the bottle on the shoe of the schooner as she started". After fishing long and hard for 53 years on smooth seas and rough, she was finally retired in 1984 with all those years and hard work noticeably showing in her appearance. That is when Captain John Foss decided to rescue her and rebuild her as his own. Along with the help of five other schooner captains she was lovingly restored and launched once again in 1986 as the beauty you see now. The look and feel of her is that of a new ship, but she retains the solid timber, tarred rigging and graceful lines of her beginnings when she worked the seas off the New England coast. So authentically has she been restored that she was recently honored as a National Historic Landmark. American Eagle is a deep draft vessel designed to be safe and stable in open water, and she is one of only a small number of sailing vessels to be licensed to voyage internationally. Today, American Eagle can be described as a bald headed rig with round tapered mastheads, a sail area of 4,600 square feet, a light gray hull with a blue waist and a steep spoon bow. Her length on deck is 92 feet and her beam is 20 feet. She displaces 107 tons and when not under sail, is powered by a 190 HP diesel engine. |
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| The American Eagle's homeport is in the harbor in Rockland, Maine, and late afternoon or evening is the preferred time for boarding. If you come by car for the sail, there is free secure parking right on the wharf at the Eagle's shipyard. A member of the crew will greet you, help you locate your cabin, and acquaint you with the ship that will be your home for the voyage. After tucking your gear under the bunks, and making your bed, you are ready to explore on your own, meet other passengers, and get the feel of the deck under your feet. Morning begins early with enticing aromas wafting from the galley of breakfast being cooked on a hefty iron, wood- burning stove. The crew has already had a taste of coffee and is padding up and down the deck preparing for the sail. In the precision of a well-oiled machine they take off the power cable, top off the water tank, take off docking lines, bake out, sail prep, haul the seine boat and raise the sails to go in fair weather or foul. Excitement is in the air as the American eagle glides out of the harbor in Rockland for her journey up the coast of Maine to Gloucester, Massachusetts and the race. |
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| Captain John has planned the journey so that there is plenty of time to explore islands and beaches along the way. He has sailed these coastal waters since he was a lad and knows them as well as anyone could. Sights of interest along the way gain attention as Captain John relates a bit of history or legend about each. One such legend is about a large clump of rocks that sits atop the reef at Norman's Woe. On an ill-fated voyage in wintertime the crew on the Hesperus sees a storm approaching. The captain, fearing that his beautiful daughter will be swept overboard, ties her to the mast. The Hesperus hits the reef and sinks. The following morning a horrified fisherman finds the daughter, floating in the surf, drowned and still tied to the mast. Henry Longfellow made the legend famous in his poem "The Wreck of the Hesperus". The poem ends with a prayer that we all be spared such a fate "...on the reef of Norman's Woe". |
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| One can choose as much or as little to do on board. Reading, staring at the sky as billowy clouds drift by overhead, watching the crew as they secure lines, guide the ship through the crowded path of lobster traps, or marvel at the agile climb up the rope ladders to the top of the tallest mast are options. On the other hand one can help heave the sails, help in the food line and even dry a dish or two after dinner. Meals are served on deck, open to the sky and in the fresh ocean air. In the ship’s small galley and on a wood-burning stove, the two chefs create an amazing variety of succulent dishes along with fresh baked breads every day and the special Maine lobster all one can eat cook out. The desserts fill that sweet tooth, and there always seem to be a cookie within reach just when one feels a little eleven o'clockish. |
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| Captain John and the crew are a big part of the fun and enjoyment of the journey. They keep the ship in shape with an ever-watchful eye and great good humor, which is quite a feat with up to 26 passengers on board. In the evening after dinner a crewmember might bring out his musical instrument and play lively music from Ireland and Scotland and American Mountain songs and dances. Passengers gather around and sing along keeping time with tapping feet. By now the sun has dropped into the sea when Captain John brings out his book to read aloud tales of the sea and of Gloucester races of long ago. To top off sea tales and music in your head, the final gift is a look overhead at the star spangled sky and an incredibly large moon appearing at the horizon. |
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| As summer winds down and there is a hint of early autumn crispness in the air, the lovely New England harbor of Gloucester in Massachusetts prepares for the annual schooner race. People in Gloucester know their ships and have taken pride in their shipbuilding since the beginning of the republic. They can spot a ship in the harbor, call its name and give you a brief history. Therefore, when they see the American Eagle hoisting its sails in the early morning light, speculation begins, will she win once again. Under the skill of her captain John Foss she has won the first place Esperanto Cup on four different occasions. Captain Foss is certainly there to beat the others out of the race. However, you get the feeling very quickly that win or lose, what it's really all about for the captain is the sheer joy of sailing his dignified old vessel as she surges forward with the wind in her sails, renewed and young again in every way. |
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| Finally, the American Eagle joins the other tall ships in the picturesque harbor in Gloucester for the big day. In addition to the passengers, a complement of special guests comes aboard in Gloucester, and these are friends of the Eagle, fishermen who once may have worked her from the end of World War II to the time she was ready for rebuilding, their families, and even descendants of the original owners such as Deedee and George Lufkin, pictured here. What a romantic vision this is with all the ships readying to race out and around the yellow marker and back to the starting line for three circuits and the winning time. There is always a chance that dolphin and seals will be spotted surfacing and swimming in the same waters. After the race, the captains all gather at the Coast Guard Station nearby for the awards ceremony joined by crew and passengers. It is all very festive where everyone picnics al fresco with live music and sea shanties as background accompaniment. Then, it is time for crew and passengers to get on board again for the sail back to the Rockland homeport where there are always first time passengers waiting to board in preparation for the next voyage. |
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| Local Accommodations: When you come to sail on the American Eagle you may want to spend time in the area with its interesting Old New England atmosphere. Two exceptional places to stay are the Camden Windward House and the Timbercliffe Cottage, both in Camden, Maine in what many call the prettiest and perhaps the most traditional town along the entire Maine coast. Camden has been coined, "The Jewel of the Maine Coast--Where the Mountains Meet the Sea". More importantly, each Bed and Breakfast is only a scenic 20-minute drive away from the American Eagle's dock in Rockland. |
Timbercliffe Cottage B&B: Timbercliffe Cottage Bed and Breakfast sits on the rise of a hill with Mount Battie in its backyard. The front yard of the inn has a clear view of Penobscot Bay, blue water, and the tall ships anchored there. When you enter the front door to Timbercliffe, you leave the 21st century behind and discover a graceful, elegant home looking much as it did in the 1800's. Your hosts Karen and Dave Kallstrand have created their home to be true to the character and décor of this period, and Karen frequently combs antique stores and tag sales looking for special additional treasures from the past to create the flavor and personality of the 1890's. The large parlor and library have fireplaces, as do some of the bedchambers, with traditional wingback chairs for dozing in front of the fire or reading a good book. The furniture, portrait paintings, clay smoking pipes and writing desks with quill writing pens pull one back to a time when everyone traveled at a much slower pace. Timbercliffe recreates this era with a wrap-around front porch graced with hanging plants, wicker rocking chairs and tables and an old fashioned wood swing. Breakfast here with its ocean view is a nice contrast from the large elegantly set trestle table in the dining room with its rear-facing windows and woodland view. It is also a relaxing place for enjoying an afternoon drink and some of Karen's freshly baked cookies. Breakfast is prepared as you like it with a wide range of options. You might want to ask for one of Dave's 'famous omelets'. Lattes, cappuccinos, cold beverages, bottled water, coffee, and tea are available 24-hours-a-day and are complimentary. |
Camden Windward House: Camden Windward House is a spacious and comfortable temple-style 1856 Greek Revival House. It was built as his home by Elijah Glover, a prominent local lumberman and ship builder. In keeping with its origins, the atmosphere of the ocean and sailing in this shipbuilder's house is kept alive with many paintings and models of sailing ships. Windward House in its lifetime has served as a private home, rooming house and apartment house. Now, Kristen and Jesse Bifulco have brought it back to its original life and want to share with its guests a gracious home of the 1850's. Standing at the top of a hill, it is conveniently located only a short walking distance from the center of picturesque Camden village and from Camden Harbor Park with its bird's eye view that looks down on the locally famous statue of Andre, the seal and the harbor. Guest rooms are light and airy and decorated in charming 1800's style, some with canopy beds, rocking chairs, black iron wood-burning stoves, and all have private baths. The second floor has a small bar, a television, games and books. French doors in some bedrooms and the bar lead to private porches overlooking the lush garden and winding garden path that ends in a special meditative garden with a seated statue of Buddha. No continental breakfast here. You get to choose from what Karen calls a simple fresh breakfast of comfort food to start the day. The Bifulcos choice to live in Maine is in keeping with a lifestyle that enhances their values as a mother, father and three little ones. They will tell you, "We have a nostalgia for the best intentions of the country's beginnings, romance and old fashioned values, enlightened by contemporary tolerance and humble appreciation for all our guests". |
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| There's more: For anyone fascinated by the world of schooners, there are other summer adventures in New England's coastal waters in addition to the Gloucester Schooner Race. One of the highlights is the Schooner Gam held in June. It is an informal gathering of many schooners on as Monday night. They are rafted together side by side in the same small harbor, and visitors may hop from one to the other and visit them all. Another highlight is Windjammer Days, also in June. American Eagle is one of the few schooners that participate. The schooners arrive in the Boothbay area for a huge island lobster picnic and then sail into Boothbay Harbor the following day and anchor amidst band concerts, a parade ashore and evening fireworks. This is also a good time for whale- and puffin-watching offshore. Late in the season there is the Wooden Boat Sail-in. The vessels anchor off the waterfront on scenic Eggemoggin Reach, and everyone celebrates the beginning of fall with steel bands and all the trimmings. |
| For More Information: Schooner American Eagle: |
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| PHOTO CREDITS: Title photo and photo #2 of American Eagle under full sail by Mikael Carstanjen; historic photos courtesy of American Eagle; remaining photos by Rod Lopez-Fabrega and Mary Ashcraft. |
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© 2008 ROMAR TRAVEL GUIDES
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