R
Middle East



In a time of unrest in the Middle East, Jordan's Wadi Rum is an area with a dramatic history as well as a place of unparalleled desert beauty in which to find quiet escape.

By Habeeb Salloum


"Rum the magnificent... vast echoing and Godlike... a processional way greater than imagination... the crimson sunset burned on its stupendous cliffs and slanted ladders of hazy fire down its walled avenue..."

These words written by T.E. Lawrence in his "Seven Pillars of Wisdom" truly describe Wadi Rum, made famous by the exploits of this legendary British officer and the setting of a memorable film that carried his name.



Only a three-hour drive from Amman, Jordan's capital, Wadi Rum, deriving its name from the Arabic wadi (valley or dried riverbed) and Iram (high point), came to the attention of the world through the writings of the enigmatic Lawrence, who made it his base during the Great Arab Revolt of 1917--1918. Here, Lawrence became the legendary advisor to Feisal bin Hussein who, as head of the Arab forces, led them from this magical valley on to victory. Subsequently, and perhaps in grateful memory of his help, Lawrence's name and Wadi Rum have become almost synonymous.



Visitors travelling to Wadi Rum, one of Jordan's main attractions, turn off the Amman to Aqaba desert highway near Al Quwayra and drive for some 30 minutes to the large and attractive Visitors' Center that has just been opened for the administration of the Protected Area of Wadi Rum and the neighbouring locale, the heart of all activities in the Wadi.

From here travellers can hire a guide, tents for the night, find good meals, rent a four-wheel drive jeep with a Bedouin driver and guide for touring the Valley, and hire camels for short excursions or a desert trip to Aqaba, a two-day camel ride away.

From the Visitors' Center, edged by seven naturally formed pillars of sandstone begin the fantastically shaped hills, overshadowing the Wadi from both sides. As may be noted in the title photograph, two of the seven pillars are badly eroded. Throughout the wadi, the contours have been sculpted by weather and time into unbelievable shapes and colors, and their sheer nakedness gives them a unique type of majesty.

Archaeologists believe that the Wadi resulted from a great crack in the surface of the earth caused by an enormous upheaval that shattered mammoth pieces of granite and sandstone ridges from the mountains of the Afro-Arabian Shield.



The Valley is a starkly beautiful world of silence, timelessness and enchantment. Stunning in its natural beauty, it lives in the heart of every Jordanian and epitomizes the romance of the dessert. As they drive through, travelers are reminded that they are hemmed in by a lunar panorama with strangely shaped towering sandstone mountains rising out of the rose-red desert. The rock formations of Wadi Rum, Jordan's answer to the Grand Canyon in the U.S.A., are undoubtedly the largest and most magnificent in the country's landscape.

Humans have lived in the Valley since the pre-historic era. Excavations have uncovered a Caleolithic settlement dating back to 4,500 B.C. Subsequently, it became the home of a number of Arab tribes, chief of which were 'Ad, Thamud, Lihyan, Main and later the Nabataeans, the builders of ancient Petra, an hour's drive away.



From the Visitors' Center, the paved road ends at the small village of Rum about 5 km (3 miles) from the Visitors' Center. This modest village is framed by the enormous Wall of Rum, a dramatic background of sheer cliffs that attract climbers from all over the world. The only town in the area, it has a population of some 2,000, consisting of the Arab tribes Mznah and Huwaitat of "Lawrence of Arabia" fame. Some, still semi-nomadic, live in goat-hair tents, others in concrete houses. Noted for their hospitality, they live off their animals and the visitors who come following the trail of Lawrence. The village has a school, a few shops and, above all, it is noted as being the headquarters of Jordan's famous Desert Patrol.
The Desert Patrol was organized by the British and handed over to Jordan when they left. Rami G. Khouri, formerly managing editor of the Jordan Times explains in his essay, The Last Patrol, "Today, Jordan's Desert Patrol spends more time in jeeps and helicopters than on camels. They are much more likely to receive calls for help from stranded motorists or be sent to help a family needing medical assistance."



For a visitor lucky enough to be invited by the Bedouin to share a cup of coffee in their black tents under the clear star-lit sky, it will be an experience not easily forgotten. However, a visitor will not run into the gentleman pictured on the right. He is Hadji Attayak bin Eid of the Zilabia tribe.

(Editor's note: Well over 100 years old when this photo was taken by Bernard Domenech in 1991, it is certain that Hadji Attayak bin Eid--now deceased--rode with Lawrence and Feisal in 1917during the attack on Aqaba. He was also the chief bodyguard of King Talal, the late King Hussein's father.)

Is it any wonder that these people of the desert are the heart and soul of Jordan and are highly esteemed by the ruling authorities?



At the foot of Jebel Rum, the second highest mountain in Jordan, just a 10 minute walk from town, lies the Allat Temple, Allat the name of a goddess in pre-monotheistic times, originally built by the 'Ad tribe. The Nabataeans rebuilt it as well as a nearby village in the first century B.C. Thamudic inscriptions on the temple confirm the pre-Islamic involvement in the construction of the sanctuary.

A short walk up the hillside from the Temple is 'Ain-Shallaleh' also known as "Lawrence Spring" from which gushes pure drinkable water. Lawrence who, played an important advisory role in the cause of Arab independence, became a legendary figure among the Arabs. Among the Bedouin Arabs his aura was so strong that to this day folktales are related about his exploits.




The best way that travellers can see the Wadi is to rent a four-wheel drive jeep with a guide and spend a day or two roaming through the Valley. All around are captivating vistas of ancient valleys and towering, weathered mountains overlooking the mostly and pink coloured sands.

In the late afternoon, the weathered mountains with their sandstone rocks radiating black, purple and innumerable other hues cast their shadows on the white and pinkish sand. Standing like foreboding sentinels, the desert-mountains are stunning in their natural beauty. One can easily see why this part of the desert so intrigued Lawrence that he often mentioned it in his writings and why much of David Lean's "Lawrence of Arabia" was filmed in its enchanting atmosphere. Here, modern day visitors can still feel the romance of the Arabian Desert, stunning in its natural beauty.



On the other hand, climbers are attracted to Wadi Rum because of its sheer granite and sandstone cliffs. For climbers, scaling these geologic wonders of nature is an inviting challenge. Hikers are drawn by the valley's vast open spaces and towering rock faces. The silence and grandeur of the sweeping vistas are best experienced on foot and camping. A night under the dazzling bright stars in this land of tranquility is a thrill a camping hiker will always treasure.

The best time to travel to Wadi Rum is during spring when some 2,000 species of flowers bloom, covering the landscape with a carpet of colours. However, no matter when one travels to this awe-inspiring Valley, the journey is worthwhile.

According to the Jordanians, the landscape at Wadi Rum is the most mesmerizing desert scene in the world. All around in the emptiness and silence and magnificent dessert scenery, man is dwarfed to insignificance. In this epitome of captivating moonlike landscape where Lawrence once hid his men, a visitor can truly visualize this remarkable British officer coming alive from the pages of history.


Arriving in Jordan:

"Formalities on arrival at Amman's international gateway airport are not difficult. Nationals of certain countries, including all European Union countries, Australia, Canada, Japan, New Zealand and the USA, can obtain visas on arrival at the airport in Jordan. Taxis are plentiful and reasonably priced and take one quickly to one of the 24 four- and five-star as well as moderately priced hotels in the city. English is widely spoken, the city is clean and, year-round, has a fine-dry and moderate climate. Above all, the Jordanians are wonderfully gracious, helpful and hospitable. As well, the city is a perfect place to base one's tours for exploring Jordan or the neighboring countries. Amman is no more than a five-hour drive from anywhere in the country. To help arrange visits, Amman has a good number of experienced tour agents and tour companies."

Facts about Jordan

1) Tourist visas are easily available at any entry point into Jordan except at the King Hussein Bridge. These are single entry visas and cost 10 JD. Groups of five persons or more arriving by way of a designated Jordanian tour operator are exempted from all visa charges. It is adviseable for all travelers to the Middle East to check with their country's consular recommendations before departure.

2) The U.S. dollar is equal to about .70 cents to the JD (Jordanian dinar); Canadian dollar about 60 to 1 JD. Exchange cash or traveller cheques at the money exchangers - they do not take commission.

3) The usual price to rent a reasonably modern small car with full insurance is around 30 or 35 (JD) per day. The roads are good - gas costs .60 JD per litre. Jordan is a small country with good roads, making important historic sites easily accessible. Taxis are reasonably priced and are one of the most convenient methods of transportation. However, agree to the fare beforehand. If taxi metered add 200 fils tip to price shown on metre.

4) Modern medical services are readily available in Jordan's larger cities and towns and the larger hotels normally have a doctor on call. Most doctors speak English fluently. Emergency medical treatment for cases not needing hospitalization is free in Jordan.

5) There are many Internet cafés all around the country--even in remote places.

6)Most Jordanians speak English and are very hospitable to strangers.

7) Conservative dress is advised for both men and women. Women will feel more comfortable when travelling in the country if they dress modestly - no leggings, mini skirts, shorts or sleeveless tops.

8) Besides mezzah and an endless series of appetizers, and the other usual Middle Eastern dishes, try the local Jordanian dishes of mansaf (lamb, rice and yogurt sauce) and musakhkhan (chicken, onion and pine nut dish).

9) For handicrafts, items to buy are: coloured sand bottles, cross-stitch embroidery, Madaba rugs, olive wood and mother-of-pearl articles, pottery and glassware, and silver Bedouin jewellery.

10) Departure taxes for non-Jordanians are 10 JD at the airport and 5 JD at other crossings.

11) An excellent exhibition on Jordan and Petra is scheduled from April 7, 2006 to January 2, 2007 at the Canadian Museum of Civilization in Ottawa, capital of Canada.

For Further Information, Contact:

Jordan Tourism Board, P.O. Box 830688, Amman 11183, Jordan. Tel: 962-6-5678294/962-6-5678254. Fax: 962-6-5678295. E-mail: info@jtb.com.jo. Website: www.see-jordan.com

Photo Credits Courtesy of: Ruth Caswell, Bernard Domenech, Liene Rappeneau, Habeeb Salloum, Atlas Tours/Amman
Special thanks to Ruth Caswell who provided many of the excellent photos illustrating this article. Born in Wales, Ms. Caswell lives in Wadi Mousa and in Paris and is often to be found exploring the wilder corners of Wadi Rum. "Jubilee", Ms. Caswell's own site can be visited at www.jordanjubilee.com






© 2006 ROMAR TRAVEL GUIDES