Würzburg, nestling in the valley of the Main River in Bavaria, is in the heart of one of Gemany's most famous wine producing areas. Situated on the Frankfurt/Munich autobahn, the city is 120 kilometers from both Frankfurt to the west and Nuremberg to the east. |
 First time diners on the balcony of the Alte Mainmuhle (Old Main Mill) Restaurant will be impressed by the magnificent vistas over the mighty Main River. Long barges slide by, almost silently, in single file into the lock, below the balcony the Alte Mainebruke (Old Main Bridge) swarms with pedestrians enjoying the spectacle of the formidable Fortress Marienburg perched high above almost vertical rows of pristine grape vines. An impressive sight in daylight, but lit up at night the Fortress becomes almost ethereal. The restaurant's patrons relax in the soft light of a late summer evening almost devoid of the sound of traffic disturbing the tranquility. |
Fortress Marienburg started life in 704 AD as a Celtic shelter. From there, the original shelter went on to far greater things, becoming a bona-fide fort in the 13th century before becoming home to Würzburg's Prince Bishops for 500 long years when many of the magnificent buildings recreated here today were constructed. Rebuilt in Baroque style in 1631 and again after World War Two, it is now a park and museum.
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The Domstrasse is Würzburg's main drag. At the eastern end of this exciting street is the "Dom", the Würzburg Cathedral of St Killian, one of the many buildings rebuilt after that terrible night in 1945. The Dom, which dates back thirteen centuries, was originally constructed in memory of Killian, an Irish priest who converted the population to Christendom in the 7th century. The many treasures contained there were stored safely within the dungeons below the Cathedral during the bombing of 1945.
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The jewel in Würzburg's elaborate crown has to be the Residenz. This UNESCO World Heritage site is renowned as being one of the most elegant and magnificent palaces in Germany, if not Europe. On its completion in 1744, the then Prince-Bishop Johann Philipp Franz von Schonborn finally thought it was safe enough to come down from his hilltop fortress to live in town in this magnificent Baroque palace. Once again, mostly destroyed in 1945 and rebuilt to its former glory, the rooms in this building are nothing less than stunning.
The architect Balthasar Neumann's famous staircase, with its 30 x 18 meter ceiling adorned with frescoes of the four continents by Venetian Giovanni Battista Tiepolo, is astounding. So, too, the White Hall, the Emperor's Hall and the Imperial Apartments. Fortunately the furnishings and wall panels from these rooms had been removed at the beginning of the war. The palace's extensive gardens emulate the interior in grandiosity. Numerous Nazi ceremonies took place in the large open area in front of the Residenz.
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As is the case in most European cities, Würzburg has its share of churches and museums, but there's also an abundance other things to do and see. The city and surrounds are full of restaurants, cafes, bars, modern department stores, designer shops - as much glitz as anyone could want. There's also a buzzing market square not far from the Dom. Boat trips to nearby towns along the river are a popular tourist attraction.
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Special Points of Interest:
The Julius Hospital (Juliusspital) on Juliuspromenade is an imposing castle-like Baroque building, contains a superb garden hidden away behind it, plus a restaurant and winery in the cellar. (www.juliusspital.de)
The Residenz. One of Europe's finest buildings is full of priceless treasures. (www.residenz-Würzburg.de)
The Residenz Wine Cellar offers wine tasting across the street from the Residenz.
The Library in the Market Square, housed in the beautiful Baroque Falkenhause building, offers Internet access at reasonable prices. The Tourist Information Office is housed here with give-away maps in English.
Universität Wüerzburg. Würzburg is home to the University of Würzburg where, in 1895, Wilhelm Conrad Rontgen discovered X-rays before going on to attain the Nobel Prize in Physics in 1901.
Fortress Marienburg. The views from here are spectacular, plus the museum holds an intriguing array of unusual items. (www.mainfraenkisches-museum.de)
Dom Saint Killian. In the Crypt beneath this building lies numerous works of art and ancient artifacts, together with the tombs of Saint Killian and other notables.
Alte Mainbricke, (Old Main Bridge.) Great views of the river and city, alive with excitement.
The Jewish Museum (Shalom Europa) on Valentin-Becker- Strasse features grave stones dating back 900 years. (www.shalomeuropa.de)
Christmas Market. I know it'll be freezing, but this market dates back several hundred years. Claimed to be one of Germany's best.
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Echoes of Past Wars: Würzburg, while being a fascinating place to visit, hasn't always been as pleasant or as calm as this. There is a time that the citizens of Würzburg who survived, would never forget.
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| It happened in 1945 on the tranquil evening of March when 225 RAF Lancaster bombers appeared over Würzburg. Seventeen minutes after the arrival of the aircraft, more than 90% of the city had been destroyed. Incendiary bombs, creating an enormous firestorm with temperatures reaching 3000 degrees centigrade, had killed approximately 5000 people, many incinerated, or vaporized by the incredible heat, others crushed by falling debris or killed by shrapnel. |
In Würzburg today, there is little to indicate to the casual observer that any devastation had occurred. The Rathaus, (Town Hall,) has a single room beside the entrance from the Domstrasse containing some documentation of that appalling night. Other, more poignant, reminders of the war and the Nazis' persecution of the Jews, are scattered here and there around the city in the form of brass plaques embossed with the names, dates, and final destinations of Jews who were deported and murdered by the Nazis. These plaques are embedded in the footpath close to where Jewish families once lived in homes mostly destroyed in 1945.
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Many of the major sights of Würzburg are within walking distance of one another via, at times, narrow winding streets, at others wide boulevards. In a quiet segment of the city's Ring Park, on Husarenstrasse, a short walk south of the Residenz, a sobering war memorial hides behind the surrounding trees. Walls carrying the names of those who fell during World War 1, plus seven stone crosses representing the years of World War11, surround the menacing centerpiece statue pictured above depicting six soldiers bearing a dead comrade. There is more than a touch of eeriness surrounding this site. A memorial to Jewish soldiers who died in World War 1 and the Würzburg Jewish victims of the Nazis is located on Werner-Von-Siemens Strasse, six kilometers east of the city. It's ultra modern display is well worth seeing.
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Other Places of Interest Close to Würzburg:
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Nuremburg, 120 kilometers southeast of Würzburg, is another restored city, but beautiful nevertheless. The steep walk to the fort at the top of the hill overlooking the city is well worth the effort.
Rothenburg ob der Tauber, 60 kilometers south of Würzburg, is one of a string of walled towns on the Romantic Road. Untouched by World War Two, this town remains virtually as it was hundreds of years ago. Be prepared for the tourist crush.
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WHERE TO STAY:
There are numerous options in and around Würzburg, ranging from budget to luxury. Our apartment on Friedenstrasse - Centrum Apartment - was freshly renovated with full kitchen and bathroom, spotless, with every amenity, less than a ten-minute walk to the centre of the city and only 48 euros per night. From there you can go to the other end of the scale and stay at the Schlosshotel Steinburg Würzburg with rooms starting at around 160 euros per night.
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Germany is renowned for its varieties of sausages, so, if you're looking for fast food anywhere in the country, you'll never be far away from a wurst outlet. Of course Würzburg is no different to any other city. Having been around for centuries, wursts have had time to evolve into what they are today - which really isn't a hell of a lot different to then - but the extent of their evolution can be gauged by the complexity of the ingredients of the modern wurst, of which there are in excess of 1200 varieties.
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Würzburg is a beautiful, historical city surrounded by pristine countryside. Like much of Europe she has suffered dark periods, but now the past has been pushed aside to reveal a vibrant, up to the minute city that is a pleasure to visit. Should you be planning a trip to Germany, put Würzburg on the top of your list of places visit. You won't be disappointed. Würzburg will fascinate you from beginning to end.
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GETTING THERE:
BY AIR: Most major airlines will fly you to Frankfurt regardless of where you are. Once at Frankfurt Airport, either take the little monorail, or jump on the free shuttle, for the short ride to the Frankfurt Airport Long Distance Railway Station. (Don't go to the regional one in the basement of the airport.) An economy class ticket to Würzburg on the fast train costs around 35 euros. This is a far more comfortable and roomy mode of transportation than that of any economy class air travel.
BY LAND: Germany's rail system has to be hard to beat which makes it an easy matter to travel from within Germany to Würzburg by rail and, with over sixty connections to locales outside of Germany, rail travel from neighboring countries is quick, easy and comfortable. The same goes for road travelers. If self-driving, the Autobahn system is easy to understand. Just remember watch your rear vision mirror for the 200 + KPH travelers speeding up behind you. Busses typically run between all major cities.
BY BOAT: Some companies, like Viking River Cruises, offer tours through Europe on their riverboats many of which travel through Würzburg. Your Travel Agent will advise you on these tours. |
PHOTO CREDITS: David Dewhurst |
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