UKRAINE-CHERNIHIV-9-9-11


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Though the hot summer is over, the Fall season is at its peak when the leaves turn crimson and golden and the spirit of adventure come to the fore, so why not indulge in a unique day trip from Kyiv (a.k.a. Kiev) to enjoy this magnificent season in the countryside of Ukraine?

Due to its favorable geographical situation in the center of the country, Kyiv is an ideal base for one-day tours that will give you a new perspective on this less-traveled country. One option we might suggest is Chernihiv, the administrative center of the region commonly known as Chernihivshchina. It is a historic city on the right bank of the Desna River, first mentioned in ancient chronicles as long ago as 907 AD, making it one of the oldest surviving settlements in Ukraine.

Chernihivska Metro Station / Credit: Wikipedia Commons = AMy81-412

Marshrutkas / Credit: Wikipedia Commons

Curious? Then go ahead! The so-called marshrutka (the popular Ukrainian word for a fixed-route taxi bus) departs from Lisova Metro Station. However, once you've undertaken a trip to the depth of the Ukrainian countryside we would advise you to use this opportunity to visit the picturesque town of Kozelets, situated just half way between Kyiv and Chernihiv. Located off the beaten tracks, this small berg is famous for its marvelous cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary. Getting there involves a slight detour departing from Chernihivska Metro Station instead of Lisova Station and taking a marshrutka to Kozelets.

One hour, and a couple of day dreams later you will arrived at your destination. The terminus is right in the middle of town, close to the monument to Lenin, the 'sine qua non' ingredient of any populated locality in the post USSR. The Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary has an absolutely remarkable wooden iconostasis, a partition or screen, decorated with icons, separating the sanctuary from the rest of the church.

Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary

Vladimirskaya / Credit: Wikipedia Commons Public Domain

Designed by the famous Italian architect Francesco Bartolomeo Rastrelli during the first half of 18th century, it was made by Italian woodcarvers. Surprisingly, everybody knows the masterpieces by Rastrelli in Kyiv and St. Petersburg but very few people know that in the interior of the country there is also this handsome example of Eastern European religious artwork decorated in azure and gold with subtle angels, flowers that might have grown in Eden and astounding icons of Eastern Christianity. Silently praying visitors inspire even non-believers to join them in appreciating this opportunity to see a real miracle in stone and wood.

As no direct marshrutkas run from Kozelets to Chernihiv (oops, I should have told you about that earlier) you will have to walk back to the highway to wait for a marshrutka to Chernihiv and thumb to stop it. Ask the driver to drop you off at the entrance to the town near the exit ramp (val in Ukrainian). The first thing that will strike your eyes will be a green flower bed with huge letters CHERNIHIV grown from grass turf.

If asked to describe this town in a few words the best choice would be that it is, "the seat of antiquity and coziness". Life moves slowly and calmly, and trouble never seems to have happened in this placid place. However, the reality is different from the perception. Founded more than a thousand years ago, the town has seen its share of conflict with battles and many other shocking and distressing historical events having taken place there, all of which have left their mark on the town's face and created its distinctive original look.

Begin your expedition with exploring the 1300-year-old rampart--also known as Detinets--which looks more like a park than a fortification . Now, only old canons remind you of its glorious military past. Apart from them, it is a typically large public garden, lavishly sharing its shade and freshness with the townsfolk escapng the mid summer heat in central Ukraine. The dense trees hide magnificent 11th-century white stone cathedrals, open for visitors and some of them housing fairly curious exhibitions of artwork.

Saints Boris and Gleb Collegium

Spaso-Preobrazhensky Cathedral

They are the Cathedral of Saints Boris and Gleb Collegium, and Spaso-Preobrazhensky Cathedral, one of the town's symbols. For those fond of souvenirs several stalls offer decorative cups and refrigerator door magnets, and numerous kiosks invite you to come in and refresh yourself with ice-cream, juice or beer.

Cathedral of Saint Katherine, cathedral gardens and fountains.

Across the road from the park there is the fine Cathedral of Saint Katherine. The hill on which the cathedral is located offers a great view of the town with its golden and green domes topped with Orthodox crosses popping up out of the massive carpet of centuries-old trees. The breath-taking panorama may induce us into a trance but the chimes of the neighboring churches will bring you back to reality.

Eletsky Monastery / Credit:CreativeCommons=Colomen

Boldina Gora (Boldin Hill)

Narrow streets and alleys will lead you to cozy Eletsky Monastery, then onto Boldina Gora (Boldin Hill), the highest mountain in Chernihiv, with its memorial to the great patriotic war 1940-1944, then past memories of the fallen and the eternal flame, to haunted Antonius Caves and eventually to Trinity-Illinsky Monastery. Climb up to its high belfry and your efforts will be generously rewarded with a terrific view over the city.

Trinity-Illinsky Monastery and Belfry

When hunger calls you may fortify yourself in some local restaurant in the downtown area. The wide variety of traditional Ukrainian dishes ranging from borsch (fantastically tasty beet-root soup) to vareniki (the Ukrainian word used for curd or fruit dumplings), as well as all kinds of salads, meat, fish, pastries and other delicacies to satisfy the most demanding palates.

After lunch, if you feel refreshed enough to carry on your tour round the city, you may walk along the central artery of the cit known as Peremohy (Victory) Street. When you reach Prospect Mira (Peace Avenue) turn to the right, and in two hundred meters you will find yourself on the city's main square, Red Square (not to be confused with its famous namesake in Moscow).

Baroque Pyatnitska Church	Upper: Drama Theater
	Lower: Mikhail's and Feodosiy's Church

If you turn to the left and walk past the magnificent drama theater your will find another hidden pearl which will practically blow your mind - a Ukrainian Baroque Pyatnitska Church first built in the 12th to 13th centuries, destroyed in many conflicts but each time beautifully restored to its former glory. Keep walking in the same direction and you will come to the cozy yellow St Mikhail's and Feodosiy's Church overlooking a fairy-tale stream as well as numerous monuments, fountains and parks.

When ready to return to Kyv, go to the bus station located on Peremohy Street right near McDonald's and take your seat in the marshrutka to Kyiv. Even the most detailed description does not do justice to this amazing provincial town, its ambience, spirit and flavor. If you come to Ukraine don't miss the chance to visit the Chernihiv region and experience the hidden surprise of its picturesque provincial towns

Other Places of Interest in the Region:

In addition to the interests in Chernihiv, the entire Chernihivshchina region has many other places of great interest which are obviously worth visiting and exploring. Some of these are:

The State dendrologic park "Trostyanets" of the National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine, a notable model of garden-park architecture of the middle of the 19th century that is considered a national treasure of the Ukraine.

Kachanovka, a most beautiful palace and landscape park once owned by the noble Ukrainian family of Tarnovsky and often visited by the greatest Ukrainian writers and composers. Most notably, it is the place where Mikhail Glinka composed his brilliant opera "Ruslan and Lyudimla", based on the famous Pushkin poem.

Sokirintsy, the family estate of the Galagans family.

Sokirintsy, the family estate of the Galagans family, builit in 1761 with its vast park which stretched along the river. It was owned by Colonel Gnat Galagan, a comrade-in-arms of Peter the Great during the Poltava Battle.

Gorgeous Gustyn Monastery founded in 1600 by the hieroschemamonk Josaph. It is one of the most picturesque sanctuaries in Ukraine.

Photo Credits: Kateryna Tarasenko

Additional Photos Credits: As indicated under photo.

For Additional Information About Ukraine:

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