 Kyiv, the capital of Ukraine--also known as Kiev--has much to interest the inquisitive traveler. Formerly a Soviet Socialist republic, Ukraine gained its independence after the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991 and is now developing a marketing economy colored by the Push-Me/Pull-You of Eastern versus Western influences.
But, apart from politics, Ukraine can boast of a proud heritage all of its very own. During its millennia-old history, the area that is now Kyiv was under the domination of Vikings from the North, then the mighty Ottoman Empire from the East and for centuries was subject to the turbulent and constant comings and goings of surrounding nascent nations. |
Visible manifestations of its distinguished history are its numerous ancient cathedrals and monasteries neighboring on modern hi-tech buildings, woody parks, magnificent monuments and fabulous views in and around this busy and cosmopolitan world capital.
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Just about one hour south of Kyiv on the Ros River, there is a small town called Bila Tserkva, which means White Church. It is an industrial town that maintains its cozy provincial atmosphere with many churches, as the name suggests, and a hospitable population. |
| But it is neither its friendly inhabitants, nor the town's rich history going back to the XI century that made this town known all over the world. The main attraction and its real pearl is Alexandria, its magnificent park and botanical reserve. |
In 1569 the town of Bila Tserkva became a part of the Rech Pospolita, a federated state made up of the Kingdom of Poland and the Great Lithuanian Principality. In 1774 the status of Belaya Tserkov prefect was granted to Count Frantisec Ksaveri Branizki, a Polish nobleman. In 1781 the count married Aleksandra von Engelhardt, a favorite maid of honor of Russian empress Katherine II--a.k.a Catherine the Great--and accorded the near-status of a Grand Duchess of the Russian court. .
The young wife could not let go her memories of the magnificent and majestic parks of St Petersburg, so in 1788 she decided to bring St Petersburg to her new home and brought about the construction of a park and architectural complex to match the magnificence of her former home. The park, named after Aleksandra, was originally laid out and developed by the French architect Mufeau. He designed it in the so-called 'English style', which at that time in history was considered to be more romantic and natural than the more conventional 'French style'. Later, other gardeners, park designers and architects were contributing to the landscape composition of the park until Alexandria became one of the most beautiful parks in Ukraine by the middle of the XIX century. |
| Though it did not fully survive in its original state, the park--officially known as The State Dendrological Park "Alexandria" of Ukrainian National Academy of Sciences--has remained somewhat in tact to this day. Extensive architectural structures still survive the post Soviet period, some of which still look superb, whereas others have turned into picturesque romantic ruins. Still the park makes a notable impression and does take your breath away when you follow the gravel alleys and narrow quiet secluded footpaths. You may take a guided tour of the park, buy a map or just rely on your instincts as you stroll along the countless interlacing lanes breathing the fresh fragrance of the vast variety of trees and plants from around the world. |
The Main Alley, which starts at the entrance gate, takes you into the heart of the park. It ends where the palace of Branizki--now in ruins--is undergoing restoration. From here smaller alleys spread out like a fan. One of the lanes leads to the Echo Colonnade built in the manner of a Greek amphitheater. Owing to its outstanding acoustic qualities it can rather be called a Whispering Gallery.
In Count Branizkis' times when the family invited guests to stay, an orchestra would play there. These days, concerts of classical music are given in the same setting as once enjoyed by the Branizkis. Now there are two shops in the colonnade; in one you can buy souvenirs and in the other ice cream and other refreshments. But those signs of the modern epoch do not spoil the atmosphere; they just make your tour of the park more comfortable and enjoyable, allowing you to rest for a while. |
| A short walk away from the colonnade is one of the most popular places in the park, the Chinese Bridge. Two bronze sculptures stand as sentinels at the stairs, the Wise Man and the Chinese Woman. Theirs is among the most favorite settings for photography as well as for those who wish to test the ability of these two bronze figures to grant wishes. Judging by the highly polished beard of the wise man and the umbrella handle in the woman's hands where thousands have rubbed the bronze to a high patina, it is where countless visitors have made their secret pact at the entrance of the bridge. The bridge gives you a fascinating view over the picturesque ponds filled with regal swans as well as many varieties of more plebian ducks. |
| As you walk along, the banks of the lake narrow like those of an estuary. Covered with blooming water lilies--by many enthusiastic accounts suggesting fairy-tales of old--the waterway is punctuated by a small bridge that crosses it as the lake slowly descends into the calm Ros River, deep blue and skittishly sparkling under the sun. |
| The path continues to wind away from the bank and up the 'mainland' where you soon come up to The Ruins resembling the remains of an ancient castle. The lower tier of the ruins forms the wall of the Laznevyi Pond dam, and a small but appealing waterfall drops into the lake with the whispers of gently falling waters. |
| Wherever you wend your way, in every nook you will find something striking, unusual, unexpected, touching and picturesque. All kinds of fine sculptures and statues are abundant in the park. Each curve in the lane surprises you with its aptly named secrets and little treasures: The Turtle waterfall, the Lion spring, the Column of Melancholy, the Devil Bridge, the Turkish Cottage, the Mermaid, the Decembrists' Bench, the Water Spirit ponds, the Paliy Hill, the Walnut Glade. To enhance the landscape design composition, plants from across the world were brought to Alexandria from North America, the Far East, and Asia Minor. Today, you can find moiré than 600 types and forms of trees and bushes and about 700 types of herbal plants. |
| It will take you about four or five hours to explore the whole territory and to enjoy its variety and beauty, its cool groves, ponds and streams and the bronze and marble keepsakes that recall Alexandria Park's lush history. A day trip visit to the park from Kyiv can be highly recommended as a refreshing interlude from the rigors of travel. |
FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION ABOUT UKRAINE
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Credit Title Photo of Countess Branizki = Wikipedia Commons License |
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