Imagine a land where winter outlasts any season and for more than half the year the landscape is caked in white powder, with the icing on top being that this particular cake lasts for at least 200 days. |
 For many, Lapland is a mystically beautiful place where elves work round the clock catering to the truckload of letters arriving to the Father of Christmas, Santa Claus. His home lies within the border zone between Russia and Finland in Korvatunturi, where legend has it that from this "Ear Fell", (the town's name translated from Finnish) he the can hear the world in motion, therefore deciding who has earned their Christmas gifts.
In order to preserve the secret of his home, Santa's grotto actually lies in on the Arctic Circle in Rovaniemi, where he receives visitors from across the globe all year round. The not so mythical crown snowload that is dumped over Lapland in the middle of October begins the decoration of undisturbed forests and lakes. It wouldn't be a surprise if for one year the reindeers stayed at home in this idyllic winter wonderland.
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Haven for Skiers, Sledders and Snowmobilers:
Due south and just beneath the Arctic Circle lies Ruka, the largest ski resort in Finland, where the sledding, skiing and snowmobiling begins almost as the last leaf disappears from the trees. From the first frozen flake to the final glaciated lake, this pre-Christmas delivery of snow, ice and frost accumulates on plentiful tree branches to form surreal snow sculpted forests.
PhotoCredit: timo_w2s
Located in an area of outstanding natural beauty and close to the Russian border here is a pristine arctic wilderness with lingering blushing twilights and a chance to witness the most spectacular light show on earth - the Northern Lights shimmering in the moonlight. Known as kaamus (dreamlike atmosphere), the polar nights symptomatic with areas above and around the Arctic Circle, benefit from a beautiful state of static solar movement. The sun rarely rises above the horizon whilst the stars, moon and northern lights illuminate the skies along with the light reflected from the snow.
Photo Credit: timo_w2s
The resort began to lift off in the winter of 1954 when the first slope was opened to the public and since then the number has multiplied into international proportions, with Nordic World Cup Skiing competitions held each year. If vertigo is an issue from the 490m (1,610ft) peak of the "Rukatunturi" fell, then there are the flatter options of over 500km of cross-country skiing tracks and 600km of snowmobile routes.
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Riding Round Ruka:
From the clown-like feet of skis and the pitter patter of husky paws to the sheer speed of the snowmobile, there is always a way to cut through the snow-filled roads and frozen lakes in order to unearth isolated beauty spots. Finland is one of the most unrestricted areas in the world for snowmobiling as anyone with a driving license is able to rent a ski-doo, so come the big chill of winter, a country unlocks the doors to the 188,000 lakes and vast forests, which make up 85% of its land.
The origins of snowmobiling lie in the early Twentieth Century, initially appealing to hunters and workers who were transporting material across snow-covered land, frozen lakes and rivers. Born out of Wisconsin as simple bikes on runners and steam-propelled sleighs, they soon developed into a Model T Ford being converted with rear tractor treads and skis in front.
Racing kicked off in 1926 with these snowbuggies battling it out near Three Lakes, whilst the across the Atlantic the Finns began to express an interest in an engine-powered toboggan steered by skis. It wasn't until the 1950s that a smaller, more personal, snowmobile began to take on the more familiar modern form. By the early 1970s over 2 million had been sold within a three-year period and the "Ski-Doo" was reaching speeds of up to 150mph.
Demand in the Arctic regions was initially low, but as the age of the aeroplane and tourism grew, Scandinavia became a hotspot for winter sports. Now it is more common for families to own more snowmobiles than cars, whilst those who turned their minds to the travelling masses are constantly revving those engines. Snowmobile Safaris have much increased in popularity over the ages, attracting tourists with their ability to search untracked, virgin terrain and large open fields of fresh snow to carve.
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Luscious Lapland:
The silence is deafening once the engine roars into life. Beginning at the base of the Rukatunturi tundra the safari sets off at a caterpillar-like crawl towards the initial road crossing, which does make you feel as vulnerable as the aforementioned colourful creature. For the initial ride the mind is too concentrated and locked on the track ahead, that should another snowmobile be heading on a collision course, then panic sets in.
As the forests become denser, trees seem closer than they really are and perhaps even moving like something out of Lord of the Rings. Hands grip the handle bars for as long as humanly possible (for they are heated incredibly well) and until the first breather the feeling is like that of a street statue, not moving for money but for livelihood.
This exhilarating experience steps up a gear into the comfort zone after an initial break and following a hop, skip and jump over the spine-breaking dips the snowmobiler's haven of a vast empty lake is reached. The accelerator is cranked up a notch as the wind pummels the body from every direction and fearing no ice cracks, attack until the next snow-capped forest. This is also when most will appreciate one of the many reasons for attempting such a crazy experiment. The open ice-field brings into view on the horizon a spectacular sunset with all colours of the rainbow (and more) from violet to turquoise, green and of course that seemingly everlasting pink tint.
A sausage snack over an open fire is enough to replenish the energy levels before the final push. The weight of the machine (and perhaps the food fuelled pit-stop) becomes most apparent when leaning into the bends and here it is crucial to keep your balance, otherwise you will become part of the snowy scenery. Blissfully unaware of the thousands of endangered species in the vicinity (actually surviving and benefiting on an abundance of food in the wilderness) from the Saimaa ringed seal to the brown bear and wolverine, the snowmobile breezes to a halt back at the base, having torn up the trails.
Some argue that the noise of the snowmobiles scares animals away whilst others claim the paths are used by those sensible species when there is little traffic. It is a controversial issue but an industry that Canada and the US alone spend $28 billion per year on, is beginning to quieten down (with noise levels 90% less than in the 1960s) and the introduction of 4-stroke style snowmobiles minimising carbon dioxide emissions.
Photo Credit: timo_w2s
Having come close to the smoking pipe of jolly old Saint Nick, one of the best ways to "chill out" from this experience is to enjoy another of Lapland's favorite ambassadors. The sauna is considered one of the most relaxing places in the world, and if it becomes as hot as the handle bars, jump out into the wilderness and make some snow angels. These shapes may just about see it through the night, but this snow clad wonderland lasts an age.
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If You Go:
The region of Kuusamo, in which Ruka lies, offers an abundance of activities throughout the year to be enjoyed within the boundaries of the national parks of Oulanka, Riisitunturi, Pyha-Luosto and Syote. Oulanka National Park is famous for its diverse river landscape suitable for rafting, wide variety of bird species and rare plants, whilst the most famous trekking route in Finland (80km long Karhunkierros Trail) is located within it. While in the winter the area is a cross-country skiers paradise with over 600km of trails crisscrossing the spectacular landscape. The resort of Ruka attracts thousands of tourists each year to take in snowboarding and downhill skiing on the 29 slopes (with 20 ski lifts) as well as dogsledding and snowmobiling.
Visitors can fly into Kuusamo Airport using a number of airlines including Finnair, Blue1, Air Baltic and SAS (via Helsinki) with an airport bus meeting all Finnair and Blue1 flights to take you into Ruka (duration: 30 minutes). If you're a skier with a valid ski lift ticket then the ski bus takes you around Ruka for free. There are total of 1400 hotel beds in Ruka, close to the ski slopes and in a village soon to be pedestrianised so you won't be short of choice.
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Useful Websites:
www.ruka.fi/winter_eng/
www.kuusamo.fi
http://www.rukakuusamo.com/hotel-cabin-or-apartment/
http://www.rukaadventures.fi/en
www.visitfinland.com
www.blue1.com
www.finnair.com
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PHOTO CREDITS INDICATED: timo_w2s, for one time use under Creative Commons License (By S.A. 2.0)
ALL OTHER PHOTOS: Andy Buswell
FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: Andy Buswell is a freelance travel writer. To see more of his work, visit:
http://www.wix.com/buzzy0811983/andy1
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Europe