Once the capital of Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, the ancient site of the 10th Century citadel of charming Forcalquier boasts views stretching west to the snow-covered Alps and to the rolling hills of the Luberon in the east. |
 After an illustrious past as an important center of power in Medieval France, Forcalquier was completely destroyed in 1601, and all that remains is traces of the ancient stone defensive walls on the slopes of the steep conical hill. Keeping a watchful eye of the modern day town is the 19th Century octagonal Notre-Dame-de-Provence-Chapel. It dominates the skyline with its beautiful carved-stone figures and dome roof creeping above the surrounding trees. |
DIM GOLDEN LIGHTS OF THE CITADELLA:
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Nowadays, life continues in the thriving market village lying below in the shade of the former citadel. To reach the hive of activity the serene setting of the old town must first be conquered and it is easy to be enraptured by the lovely narrow streets, shady squares and 13th and 15th Century houses.
From dusk onwards, the subdued golden street lighting creates an intimate atmosphere in which to admire the ancient architecture on display and meander past inviting restaurants. It is a stark contrast from the packs of stray cat's eyes that glow from beyond the rotting doorways to the impressive wrought-iron balconies that have stood the test of time. The heart of the old town boasts a vision of its past importance in Place St Michel with the remains of a carved-stone Renaissance fountain.
The homey and cosey atmosphere that emanates from among the enchanting winding streets seems to breed a rich cultural lifestyle. All walks of life are represented, from writers to painters and sculptors who have all been charmed enough to settle down here. Just a steep step away from the local artists and craftspeople in their studios is the main village square, whose Monday Market often seeps towards the exhibitions on display.
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The markets of Provence may be globally revered but it is the local contributions that bring character and color to this historic tradition dating back to the Middle Ages. Each town has something special to offer and Forcalquier is no different, as Place du Bourguet wakes up every Monday morning to the hustle and bustle of street traders.
With the impressive white stone structure of the Notre Dame de L'Assomption as a backdrop, this weekly meeting of farmers, craftsmen and traders spreads lively colours across the square and overflows down the adjourning side streets. Where once you may have basked in tranquillity with cracks of sunlight appearing from beyond the church with your coffee and croissant in the morning, now is home to one of the most important institutions of the region.
Even more heaving on the first Monday of the month, its speciality lies not only in a large selection of organic food (vegetables, bread, drink and other home-grown produce) but also an entire section dedicated to the arts and crafts. With everything from jewelry to paintings, sculptures and pottery available it is no surprise that the crowds spill out into the peace and quiet of the old town.
And just to prove how well-integrated the traditional market day is into Provencal society, it is not uncommon for there to be more locals perusing the antiquities and deals than tourists. Out earlier than most to avoid the crush of bargain hunters, the villagers are often home enjoying a pleasant snack of fresh meat, cheese and wine before the visitors get a look in.
People come from far and wide to stroll between the stalls, enjoying both the animated conversation and diversity of products from the local area. Even market groupies can be noted all across Provence as it is a common occurrence for you to spot the same trader the following day on the other side of the valley.
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In complete contrast to the humdrum of market trading is just on the horizon to the southwest of Forcalquier, where dotted across the low hills above the wide plains are a number of white and silver globes.
This astronomical observatory is an eerie sight at first, and even more so right under your noses. The Observatoire de Haute-Provence was established in 1937 and the area was chosen due to its remoteness, clean air and clear view of the skies.
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It is a steep climb from the nearby Medieval village of St Michel, but worth the struggle (be sure to check the opening hours as they are restricted) for both stunning panoramic views of the surrounding area and a mysterious stroll amongst science. St Michel sits just 3km away atop a hill, amidst farmlands and luscious lavender fields, whilst the hub of activity takes place in the main square with a number of bustling terrace cafes and a fountain.
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THE LURE OF THE WHITE CAPPED PEAK: |
From one lavender filled slope to another, as just to the north of Forcalquier is where the famous bodycare fragrance company L'Occitane en Provence gets its produce from. The Lure Mountain is a distinctive high point of the area, known for both its aromatic plants, and like its bigger brother Mont Ventoux on the other side of the Luberon, sports a shiny white cap.
At 5,990 feet it stands above the tree line and it is white scree that covers the top layer of the cake that makes it appear snow covered. It is precisely the icing on top that draws people to do the Lure loop, which is popular for those with four wheels, two wheels or even two legs.
From Forcalquier, the first vision of the illustrious peak comes as the Lake de la Laye disappears into the distance. From here onwards the sugar coated mountain constantly looms on the horizon inviting you to climb to the top. The gradual ascent to the base takes you past firstly St Etienne-Les-Orgue, whose charm is hidden in the streets between the old churches and stone houses. At the upper end of a wide valley, bordered on the south and north by forested hills and the rising Lure, the village only becomes visible as you pass through the grain fields to the outskirts.
Set on the southern slope of the Lure is the peacefully picturesque village of Cruis, surrounded by lavender fields and on the edge of alpine tree plantations and forests of beech trees. Typically tanned like the Provencal hilltop settlements, it is the point of no return, where one way leads to the Lure and the other back to the freedom of Forcalquier.
For those heading to the top, what awaits them is a vision of all four seasons of the year, with the Mistral wind being the ultimate challenge in reaching the barren communications tower at the summit.
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In the right season the scent of lavender would follow you on all your travels around Provence, but whatever time of the year you visit there is a colorful attraction to the landscape. Whether it is the fiery orange of autumn leaves or explosive purple of the lovely lavender fields, the glorious countryside of this part of France is absolutely spellbinding.
The markets may in some cases only show their faces once a week, but that experience combined with the tranquillity of Provence will captivate you for a lifetime.
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It is common to hear the climate of Provence described as "typically Mediterranean", with the mountains behind them protecting the area from weather fronts coming down from the north. This also contributes to the significantly small amount of rainfall during the year and mild winters that are enjoyed by the region. The dryness is helped on its way by the Mistral wind, which can blow for weeks on end, pushing the temperature down drastically, whilst the lines of tall cypress trees, as well as being pleasant to look at, form protection for growing plants. It is an all year round destination that maybe too hot at times in the summer for adventurous activities, but while the autumn and winter (snow is possible in December and January) offer a mild climate, you will find less places open for business.
If you're traveling by plane the best place to fly into is Marseille (served by a number of carriers from the United Kingdom and USA) and from here we recommend either taking a train or hiring a car. Specifically to reach Forcalquier, you should take a bus into Marseille's Gare St Charles and then take the train to La Brillaine-Oraison. Forcalquier is then a 15-minute taxi ride away. It is also possible to take the Eurostar and TGV from London to parts of Provence such as Avignon and Marseille.
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FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: |
Useful websites:
www.forcalquier.com/index_en.html
http://www.obs-hp.fr/welcome.shtml
www.visitprovence.com/en
www.mrsairport.com
www.eurostar.com
www.raileurope.com
www.ter-sncf.com
About the Author: Andy Buswell is a freelance travel writer.
To see more of his work, visit:
http://www.wix.com/buzzy081983/andy1
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| PHOTO CREDITS: Andy Buswell, all others courtesy of Wikimedia Commons and attributed on each photo. |
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