In a far-away almost forgotten corner of Italy lies one of Italy's best kept secrets -- nestled between the Adriatic and Ionian seas is the captivating region of Puglia. This unique and exotic landscape boasts the country's longest coastline as well as the mystical 5,000-year-old trulli and the stunning white city of Ostuni.
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 This story begins in the heart of the Mediterranean during the Neolithic Age when the community of Alberobello sprang to life, but it wasn't until the 13th Century BC that an influx of Cretans and Mycenaeans sparked the construction of the trulli. These white-coated cone-shaped buildings are made from heavy limestone blocks, originally constructed without mortar--so the story goes--to avoid taxation. The modern-day army of more than 1,000 trulli in Alberobello has contributed to this being designated an UNESCO World Heritage Site. |
THE ROUND HOUSES OF ALBEROBELLO
The historical center of the town is made up of a hundred trulli located on a hilltop amid the scent of almond and olive trees. From the rooftops of these 'little cathedrals' we can enjoy an impressive vista over the plains of the valley below covered with ancient olive trees and countless vineyards.
Dotted across the beautifully exotic Itria Valley, the trulli first gained significance over 500 years ago when the local nobility began enlisting workers from nearby communities to cultivate the fields. A royal inspection ensued into these illegal activities and it was the ease with which they were able to knock the trulli down that aided their efforts to evade taxes.
The bright white paint then seemingly spread towards the stunning Adriatic coast, coloring the striking hilltop city of Ostuni. A charming example of Mediterranean architecture, the citadel creeps into view as most arrive via the weaving, winding roads from the Itria Valley. The fortified old town is an enchanting maze of Greek-style streets, dating back to a preclassic tribe known as the Messapii.
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THE WHITE CITY OF OSTUNI AND PROTECTED GALLIPOLI
Once you have clambered past the hanging houses embedded on the hillside you will be met by a network of whitewashed buildings clustered together, separated only by the occasional imposing archway. The quaint narrow streets retain the scent of the fresh coastal breeze and the breathtaking views not only take in the seven colors sea but inland is dominated by the presence of the Pugliese masserie, basically fortified farmhouses.
The defense system doesn't end with these fortified large estate-farms, as due south lies the nature reserve of Torre Guaceto. Named after one of numerous towers that are dotted along the coast, this WWF protected area contains age-old olive groves, marshlands and a thousand-year-old dune barrier. These towers were part of an illustrious defense system against the violent Turkish incursions of the 16th Century, and it seems that this friendly foot of Italy is steeped in a history of violence.
On the coast-to-coast journey toward the Idyllic Ionian coast and into the land of Salento the traveler wanders across the fertile plains of Lower Murgia. Contributing to the reputation of Puglia as the "Garden of Italy" this area is steeped in an agriculture revolving around fruit, vegetables and, of course, olive oil. Arriving on the west coast of the Salentina peninsula, the city known as the Ionian Pearl greets us. Under siege from the Venetians in 1484 and the French not long after, the old part of Gallipoli, which is fortified by walls, towers and embankments, has played the role of defender of the city for quite some time.
Situated on a limestone island and set apart from the mainland by a centuries-old bridge, the historic center offers a well restored Byzantine fortress as well as the imperious Cathedral of St Agatha. But it is the mild climate and hospitable nature of the local people that follow us along the coastal paths to the meeting of two seas.
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THE HEEL OF ITALY
At the most southerly point of Salento sits Santa Maria di Leuca, where the crystal waters of the Ionian and Adriatic seas merge. This village is home to one of the most important lighthouses in Italy (standing at 102m above sea level), and the tranquillity is complimented by the fabulous fresh seafood caught by the local fishermen.
By now we are deep in the heel of the Italian boot, and the charming coastal landscape then takes us past the pristine beaches and crystal clear waters of a region that produces some of the finest olives and grapes in the world. The Adriatic cliffs are decorated with sea grottoes that not only play host to ancient rocky art but are also home to a variety of marine and fresh water species and fauna.
These prehistoric caves guide us past the eerily quiet Santa Cesarea Terme, boasting unique Islamic styled architecture and ornate churches built in the Moorish tradition. From this plateau-based town where there are seemingly more churches than people we pass through a fertile region and the most easterly point on the Italian mainland at the lighthouse "Faro della Palascia" before reaching Otranto.
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TO THE STRONGHOLD OF OTRANTO
This Messapian town has never fully recovered from the invasion of the Turkish Ottomans in the late 15th Century when it was utterly destroyed. However beyond the modern day seaside town and port lies the historic winding alleys that lead you to the stunning mosaics in the Romanesque Cathedral while the mighty Castello Aragonese still stands proudly defending the community.
Beyond the defensive walls which still enclose the center of yet another white-washed city is the shoreline path to the Baroque metropolis of Lecce. Known as "The Florence of the South" due to the rich number of architectural monuments found in the city, the mind boggles at the countless churches and palaces on parade. Unfortunately, it is often unfairly overlooked in favor of the nearby beach towns despite its deep historic beauty.
Not satisfied with just being a sun-worshippers' dream, the region of Puglia offers lovers of food and drink a place to whet their pallets and the more adventurous of us the opportunity to discover an unspoiled paradise.
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If You Go:
The region of Puglia, which hosts the peninsula of Salento, lies in the friendly heel of Italy, and if your inclination is for a bit of sunbathing then--as with most Italian and coastal destinations--the months of July and August see the hottest weather and largest crowds. But in Puglia you're never far from the coast, and with its sea breeze the weather here is exceptionally mild the rest of the year, with May, June or September being popular months to visit for pleasant weather and fewer tourists.
If you're traveling by plane the best place to fly into is Brindisi or Bari (served by British Airways or Ryanair direct from the United Kingdom or Alitalia, Swiss or Lufthansa, to name but a few, from the USA) and from here we recommend either taking a train or hiring a car. Specifically, to reach Alberobello (from both Brindisi and Bari), you should take a shuttle bus into the main train station and here you can catch a local train to a number of places including Alberobello (please be aware that on Sundays the trains often don't run and you may be restricted to a bus service). To make your way around the rest of the region we either suggest cycling, walking or hiring a car.
Useful websites:
www.regione.puglia.it
www.salento.it
www.aeroportidipuglia.it/index.asp
www.trenitalia.com
www.fseonline.it
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FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:
Andy Buswell is a freelance travel writer. To see more of his work, visit:
http://www.wix.com/buzzy081983/andy1
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