In the Middle Ages, a journey of 1600km, undertaken in 79 days, inspired many pilgrims across Europe to go in search of the three holy sites of Christianity: Rome in honor of the martyrdom of St Peter and Paul, Santiago de Compostela in northern Spain where St James was laid to rest, and for the more militant, the crusades to Jerusalem. Once again, it is possible for 21st Century pilgrims to follow in their footsteps. |
 The original passage broached many different European cultures enabling them to communicate with each other, and it could be argued, perhaps forging the basis for the strong European identity we see today. The trail became known as the Via Romea or the more popular Via Francigena, and it connected not the cities but the abbeys that existed along the way. In the 11th Century thousands of pilgrims traveled across the land of the Franks from Canterbury in England through France and Switzerland to Rome in Italy.
In order to serve the needs of the pilgrims, a vast network of trading began to develop, and several routes were created depending on the season, political conditions and popularity of the saints' shrines. With traffic intensifying, new villages, castles and monasteries were built as well as hospitals and nursing homes, to cater to the needs of traders and travelers.
In the intervening years between the Middle Ages and the present, the trail was lost by the dislocations of wars, growing cities and changing mores. It was not until 1985 when the route was rediscovered by Italian anthropologist Giovanni Caselli who traced the 79 stages of the journey made in the year 990 by Sigeric, Archbishop of Canterbury.
By 2004 the Via Francigena was accredited as one of the Major Cultural Routes of Europe and the ensuing popularity of the journey inspired a group of 27 cyclists in 2007 to ride from Canterbury to Rome in 16 days. Two years later the Italian government funded a project to recover the entire route. As many are now discovering, it is a unique opportunity to discover stunning mediaeval villages and a cultural legacy consisting of art, history and trade.
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Although many of the communities along the Tuscan route (home to over 400km of the trail) are protected by ancient mediaeval walls, the doors to tourism on the Via Francigena are slowly being unlocked. Behind the barriers of the important silk town of Lucca lies a city of 100 churches, proud of the part it played in the rise of this pilgrimage route. The sturdy walls surrounding the city date back to the 15th century are a delight to stroll around and it is their strength that has preserved the ancient Roman history contained inside them.
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| Of the many cathedrals the most significant is the third attempt at rebuilding the Duomo di San Martino, which contains the highly venerated relic of the Holy Cross. Legend has it that this was sculpted by Nicodemus, the same man who helped deposit Christ’s body in his tomb. The presence of it has attracted pilgrims for centuries and there is even a procession every September in its honour. |
| Tourists now flock to the mediaeval city for other reasons as well, dragging their lethargic legs up Torre delle Ore, the tallest of Lucca's 130 towers. The view from the summit offers a stunning bird's eye view of Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, formerly home to the Roman amphitheatre. |
Heading south through rolling vineyards from the beautiful silk of Lucca, is the mediaeval city of Siena. Growing in significance after the eruption of the Via Francigena in the tenth century, it became a pivotal point of trade routes leading to Rome, whilst the inhabitants were in constant conflict with Florence as they looked to build their empire. After a honeymoon period of 300 years, its strength began to wane and in 1555 a year-long siege finally ended in defeat for the Sienese Republic.
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| What remains is beautifully preserved Gothic architecture built around the heart of the city in Piazza del Campo. Visiting in early July and mid-August may enable you to witness a deeply rooted tradition of the city known as the Palio, where ten of Siena's 17 districts take part in a horse race ridden bareback. |
Even if you choose not to run the gauntlet of the Palio across Piazza del Campo, then it is still hard not to resist a less competitive three laps of the shell-like square. The hysteria of flying flags are soon forgotten by the sereneness of the sunset as it floods the beautiful monuments of the Torre del Mangia (a symbol of the city) and the fountain of joy with a festival of lights. The surrounding mediaeval street furniture is also a joy to wander around with the old town being rewarded with UNESCO World Heritage Status in 1995.
Standing aloof the city walls allows you to appreciate Siena as it was intended--a work of art that blends into the surrounding landscape. |
Just 30km south along the pilgrimage is Buonconvento, which perhaps thanks to its military fortifications is a 'happy place', or maybe because this is the literal translation from the Latin conventus bonus. Another of Siena’s strongholds, the town became frequented by travellers and pilgrims from 1100 but it wasn't until 1371 that the outer walls were erected, along with nine guard towers.
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| Although the construction took 12 years, this seems to have been justified by the perfectly preserved houses and churches lining the stone slab streets. Wrapped as tightly as a present, there were originally only two entrances to the village through the walls. The gift inside is a memory to an illustrious past from the Palazzo Borghese, whose arms are on the façade to the red-bricked town hall, still bearing the 25 coats of arms of the original mayor. |
| Art and agriculture still live on in the commune, and after being nominated as one of I borghi più belli d'Italia, (An Association of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy) pilgrims and tourists continue to flock to this happy community. |
The deserted landscapes and watercolour scenery of the Crete Senesi region are left behind for the lush green basin surrounding San Quirico d’Orcia. Yet another shining example of mediaeval architecture preserved by a city wall dating back to the fourteenth century, San Quirico boasts the survival of fourteen original towers and turrets.
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| With a plethora of signs directing you towards the Via Francigena, it is no surprise that this was once an integral commercial centre of the area. As with Buonconvento, the town was of great value to the Sienese Republic, developing shops, taverns and workshops on the main street as well as a popular weekly market. |
| The intricacy that has gone into the construction of the sculptures and monuments are worthy of the sentinel-like Cypress Trees keeping a watchful eye on the town. The Collegiata dei Santi Quirico and Giulitta have magnificent examples of Romanesque-Gothic doorways whilst the Italian Renaissance gardens of Horti Leonini, dating back to 1540, are full of charm. |
Support is now thriving for this cultural institution with the European Institution of Via Francigena promoting the restoration of historical buildings and infrastructures, preservation of cultural heritages and protection of local food and wine traditions.
Despite the invention of machine-based transport, it is still the simplicity of two legs or two wheels that continue to grace this ancient route. Throughout the passage of time, it has gone from a crucial cog in the hub of trading in Europe to a buried treasure and finally a globally revered route.
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If You Go:
If you're crazy enough to attempt the whole route then this could take anything from three months but you must be prepared for extreme weather conditions in the mountain. The best time to attempt the trek is May-October (possibly avoiding the Italian coast in August). However a more popular and feasible trip is to walk or cycle enough to receive your Testimonium in Rome. This would mean cycling the 400km from Lucca or walking 130km from Acquapendente.
There are many variations within the Tuscan section with the most popular being Lucca / Siena (approx 160km) and Siena / Acquapendente (approx 120km). Visitors can fly into either Pisa or Florence and then take a bus to either Siena or Lucca. There are plenty of B&Bs and hotels but very few refugio style accommodation and any choose to camp.
For additional information about the Via Francigena:
http://www.viafrancigena.com/
http://www.associazioneviafrancigena.com/
http://www.francigenaintoscana.org/wp/
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PHOTO CREDITS: Andy Buswell |
Andy Buswell is a freelance travel writer. To see more of his work visit http://www.wix.com/buzzy081983/andy1 |
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