Created in 1918 as Spain's first national park, Picos de Europa, literally "Peaks of Europe" is a range of mountains 20km inland from the northern coast of Spain. The park is located in the autonomous communities of Asturias, Cantabria and Castile and León, forming part of the Cantabrian Mountains. |
 As the clouds close in on the towering limestone peaks of Northern Spain, so the Picos de Europa envelops almost everything under its shadow, but at the same time embraces those lower peaks that are its more tranquil servants. |
Arenas de Cabrales is one of several small villages that lie on the northern boundary of one of Spain's highest mountain ranges, third only to the Sierra Nevada and the Pyrenees. Home to just 800 inhabitants, there are probably as many grazing animals in the surrounding foothills as people. However, as the flora flourishes towards summertime so the population swells, pushing this principally one-road village to bursting point.
Incredibly, it has retained both its authentic style and hospitality despite the massive influx of tourists thriving on the quaintly colorful buildings as well as in anticipation of the rustic green paradise that awaits them. It is the relationship between this community, isolated between the rocky summits and often hidden by low mist, and the pastures that make this such a special place.
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CHEESE / A LOCAL TRADITION:
Tradition lives on and on in this timeless part of the world with food specialities being a memory you can take home with you. We begin with the renowned Cabrales Blue Cheese that is one of many cheeses paraded in a traditional festival on the last Sunday of August. With demonstrations of the cheese-making process on offer, it is quickly understood how nature and man have joined hands.
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| CREDIT=Wikipedia Commons/deramaenrama |
CREDIT=Wikipedia Commons/PDPhotos.org |
The choice is either pure, unpasteurized cow's milk or in a more traditional manner using goat's or sheep's milk. Either way, after the initial two-week curing period, the cheese develops 'from boy to man' by spending up to five months in natural caves that are to be found in the limestone mountains of the area. It is in this time and climate (high humidity and consistently cool temperature) that maturity produces not only a stronger and spicier flavor but also the infamous bluey-green veins.
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CARVING INTO THE CAVERNOUS MOUNTAINS:
Beneath the rugged rocks lies an underworld certainly comparable to the Stygian Caves of mythology, if only for its stillness . With the deepest chambers in Spain, the caves of the Picos are also considered some of the most important in the world of caving. It is no surprise then, that exploration continues to this day as there is seemingly no end to this indoor maze.
Some, such as local hotel owner Jim Thomson, have dedicated their lives to unravelling these complex labyrinths that have been left untouched for millions of years. International expeditions have come and gone but what are always left standing are the deep forest-like stalagmites and stalactites, the former being what you wrestle your body around and the latter being more of a source of bumped heads for the unwary.
It is hard to imagine that beyond a crawl hole is a web of tunnels often leading to huge chasm where there could be anything from a mystical underground lake to a lair of limestone dripping cones. Who can blame the local cheeses for chilling out a little while longer in such atmospheric surroundings?
As you tunnel your way out of this borderless natural habitat, you will be faced with the same stunning panoramic view of peaks swelling above the horizon that 16th century sailors returning from the new world first gazed upon as their caravels neared the continent of Europe. It is a raging debate locally as to whether this inspired the naming of Spain's first national park or if it was the northern navigators of the early 19th century who named them the Picos de Europa or even if the name was in honor of Prince Astur's lover Europa, whom he married on Mount Vindius
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PASSING THROUGH THE LOWLANDS OF GREEN SPAIN:
| Not as hotly contested is the appreciation of the rustic green of the lowlands, still colored by the crops, cattle and cultivation of the few remaining shepherds. Both livestock and stony farms only complement further the tranquil terrain dotted with beautiful wild flowers. |
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If that is not reason enough to be proud, then there is the sumptuous Fabada Asturiana that comes from the wild mountains of Asturias. This world famous bean pot is flavored with local specialities such as oak-smoked fresh sausages and cured pig's legs, all having graced the deep green valleys of the Picos at one time or another.
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| PHOTO CREDIT: Wikimedia Commons |
Cutting right through the middle of the central and western massifs is a striking canyon. Originally created as a hydro-electric maintenance track by blowing both a canal and path out of the cliff face, the Cares Gorge has now become one of Spain's most popular trails. Along this 8-mile limestone path there are a number of varying micro-climates as the initial ascent to 600m (from Puente Poncebos) leaves the Rio Cares flowing deep in the valley below.
At times the path narrows to the width of a couple and with that in mind it's comforting to know that the well-horned goats you meet along the way tend to stay on lower ground. Joining them are a variety of birds from Dippers to Griffon vultures and Wallcreepers all intent on enjoying this 1-mile-deep chasm as much as the walkers. Towards Cain (in the south) the clear blue-green waters of the river become more apparent as the route descends into the impressive ravine, passing over a couple of tributaries before finally leaving the cliffs and crags behind.
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CHALLENGING LUNAR TERRAIN OF THE THREE MASSIFS:
While the gorge is an overpowering sight, the peaks lingering behind and hovering above the rocky ridges are a different world. Almost completely devoid of vegetation it is from the top of this dramatic rocky terrain when we get our first sight of the Bay of Biscay just 20km away. The lush blue waters and peaceful meadows below provide such a contrast to the almost moonlike features of the higher ground of the three massifs of the Picos.
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NARANJO DE BULNES PEAK / PHOTO CREDIT: Wikimedia Commons / LaraJunglePrincess |
Surprisingly the steep pointed Torrecerredo, also the highest peak (2,647m) of the area, is hidden behind a number of its pointed brothers. Therefore, it is up to the toothlike Naranjo de Bulnes to act as guardian overlooking the Picos. Just a shade shorter at 2,519m this magical mountain is one of the most precious jewels of the area. An absolute haven for climbers, its summit can be reached in 70 different ways, while for those with a little less desire to be hanging in mid-air, the base is a pleasant spot from where to check out the progress of braver trekkers.
Even here, a more populated spot, it feels like an untouched part of paradise, and it is the inaccessibility of this area that offers a more calming introduction to the tourists flocking to the charming villages and landscape surrounding it. Being the only area of Spain that didn't fall to the Moors, it stands proud as the gateway to Europe from the west.
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IF YOU GO:
The Picos de Europa was Spain's first national park and consists of three important massifs: the Eastern (Andara), Central (Urrielles) and Western (Cornion). Even so, this is nowhere near the scale of the larger lakes, so it is still possible to enjoy a relaxing trip here all year round. The natural stony beaches are easily accessible, and the lake itself is very popular with surfers, sailors in the late morning and early afternoon when the winds are less strong. In the very early morning try a spot of rowing or canoeing on the calm waters. Walking the mountain trails past sleepy villages and beside the sparkling lake are a must.
If you are traveling by plane the best places to fly into are Santander (served by Ryanair direct from London), Asturias (with Easyjet from London) or Bilbao (with Easyjet from London or Manchester). If you are flying from the United States then you will have to fly directly to either Madrid or London (using a number of airlines including Iberia and American Airlines) and then take a short connecting flight to any of the aforementioned airports. As the public transport network does not quite reach some of the smaller villages of the Picos, it may be easier to hire a car or arrange a pick-up with your hotel. Buses and trains may take you some of the distance, for example to Llanes on the coast. The same can be said for any of the walks that don't begin from the villages--most hotels will offer transport or there are always the local taxis.
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Useful websites:
http://www.thepicosdeeuropa.com/
http://www.asturiasguide.com/
http://www.exodus.co.uk/countries/spain-holidays/picos-de-europa?
http://www.fade.es/torretours/english/home.htm
http://www.aena-aeropuertos.es/csee/Satellite/AeropuertoSantander/en/Home.html
http://www.aena-aeropuertos.es/csee/Satellite/Aeropuerto-Asturias/en/Home.html
http://www.alsa.es/
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PHOTO CREDIT: Andy Buswell
Note: Title Photo Credited to Wikimedia Commons / jlgomezlinares
Additionial photos credited as noted and published here under Wikipedia Commons license Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.5 Generic
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