|
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
||||
 Europe |
 Once Upon A Prague... If you like fairytales, you'll love Prague. If you like grandeur and history, you'll love Prague. Waiting for you is your own personal Prague, if you have the curiosity to explore its many less-visited corners. By Mary Ashcraft |
|
Prague is a captivating city, and it has been intriguing the world for a very long time ...you will want to join the crowds to see all the places you've read about... |
|
 Prague is a captivating city, and it has been intriguing the world for a very long time. It seems to have all the ingredients of a proper fairytale. Don't misunderstand. It is still a story being re-written as it continues to recover from decades under the heavy yoke of Soviet communism. When the Soviets left, the world took notice. Prague has become a hugely popular destination with European tourists and increasingly so with Americans. Crowds fill its streets, gawk at its amazing wealth of architecture, listen to the music of its brilliant composers, and perhaps end a busy day in an arty café sipping its famous Beckerovka liqueur.  Naturally, while in Prague you will want to join the crowds to see all the places you've read about: the stately palace of Bohemian kings and St. Vitus Gothic cathedral on Petrin Hill overlooking all of Prague, a Medieval Old Town Square that was the center for royal celebrations and for the spectacle of executions, the Loretto, the Basilica of St. George, American architect Frank Gehry's "Dancing House,"  the Golden Lane, Wenceslaus Square, Prague's famous Jewish Cemetery and the famous--or infamous--Charles Bridge. However, let me tell you about some unusual gems that many visitors miss. |
|
...let me tell you about some unusual gems that many visitors miss.
|
 |
 Walking the cobbled stone streets of Prague, one can't help but be aware of its rich history, but the story of the city begins with a fairytale. Passed along from parent to child is the story that, once upon a time in a timbered palace called the Vysehrad high above the Vlatava River Prince Premysl and Princess Libuse ruled wisely. Then, one day the songbirds stopped singing in the treetops and a great silence fell over the earth. Princess Libuse was seized by a vision. She raised her arm and pointed to a forested spot across the Vlatava. She told her people, "Go to the place I show you, and on that spot you will build a castle and call it Praha." She predicted that Praha would grow to be a rich and powerful trading center. The people obeyed, the name Praha spread by word of mouth throughout the land, and foreign merchants carried its name to countries far away. It appears that her prediction came true. A good place to start your journey is where the fairytale began at the Vysehrad, the hilltop castle grounds of legend. Praguers still think of this as their castles even though the wooden hilltop fortification no longer exists. These days, the Vysehrad is pleasant park on a summit about one mile from the center of town overlooking the Vlatava River. Families go there on a Sunday to picnic. At the entrance to the park is the oldest building in Prague, the Romanesque style rotunda of St. Martin. The grounds have four bold, larger-than-life statues depicting the story of Princess Libuse and her vision, the church of St. Peter and St. Paul with its Neo-Gothic facade and the once simple parish church yard cemetery, the Slavin. |
|
...there are no generals or war heroes buried here, but artists, musicians, writers, composers, scientists and intellectuals... "Although dead, they still speak." |
|
 Even though the cemetery has been expanded and been declared the National Cemetery, it still retains its earlier charm and simplicity. The character of Prague is clearly shown on these grounds in that there are no generals or war heroes buried here, but artists, musicians, writers, composers, scientists and intellectuals with a politician here and there. You will find the graves of Dvorak, Janachek, Smetana and the master of Art Nouveau, Alphonse Mucha. Fin de Siecle sculptures chiseled for themselves free -form marble gravestones, which gives the cemetery the impression of an outdoor sculpture garden. Most grave- stones are uniquely personal works of art. You will find realistic busts, obelisks with photographic imprints and amazing weeping angels. The famous Czech playwright Karel Capek insisted a marble bowl be carved in the center of his tomb so the birds would have a place to drink. In his play RUR, he coined a word now common in every language, Robot. Nearby, on a dancer's grave, the bronze form of a young lady floats free toward heaven as a slender, ballerina. With its flowers, overgrown, grassy paths and highly imaginative head stones, it is more welcoming and friendly than sad and depressing. An old inscription on the wrought iron entry gate says it all: "Although dead, they still speak." |
|
Corner stones from at least twenty towns and regions heavy in Czech history went into its construction.
|
|
 On the corner of Nadroni Street is the grand, ornate Renaissance building, the National Theater. It was originally called the cathedral of the Renaissance because it was built with such reverence. Being under Hapsburg rule for so long the Czechs felt displaced in their own country. In 1851, with the erection of this building, the Czech people found a new beginning for their own identity, language, and history. There was a nationwide call for donations of money for the building. The money rolled in and Corner stones from at least twenty towns and regions heavy in Czech history went into its construction. Included is a stone from the Czech community in Chicago, Illinois, U.S.A. Theater and concert- goers can not only enjoy stage performances in this landmark structure, but paintings and sculpture of the fabulous interior and exterior by some of the leading artists of the day as well. These highly creative people came to be known as artists of the National Theater generation. |
|
The Slavia Café has been the popular meeting place for the intelligentsia and Bohemians since the first republic.
|
|
 Conveniently located across the street from the National Theater, on the corner, is the Slavia Café. Its air of sophistication comes from he fact that it has been the popular meeting place for the intelligentsia and Bohemians since the first republic. In fact, the word Bohemian began here in Prague and comes from the name of the ancient Celtic tribe, the Boii that lived here in the Czech Republic's pre-history. The Slavia is a large airy room lined with green, leather-covered-booths, the walls accented with dark woods, and with large windows to see and be seen by the passing parade. One of the regulars in this highly charged atmosphere was Czech Nobel Prize winner and avant-garde poet Jaroslav Seifert who immortalized it in his "Slavia" poems. During the communist rule, these creative people were forbidden to gather at this special watering place because the free exchange of ideas was threatening to the regime. It is said that at that time the food was bad and the service worse, but they came anyway. After all, it was their place to meet. Today, Viennese type pastries are served with a choice of hot teas or cool wines. It is an ideal place to quench your thirst and to let your imagination run wild. It doesn't seem overrun by tourists yet so, you may by chance be rubbing elbows with the current Dvorak or Kafka. One can only hope. |
|
To reach the Kampa, you have to cross the Vlatava River on one of the most dramatic bridges in the history of Prague
|
|
 When you enter the Kampa in the Mala Strana part of Prague, you might feel like Alice must have felt when stepping through the looking glass. Prague is such an exciting place with one's attention being diverted by attractions old and new, that it takes a long while for the density of the throng to wear thin. If you enjoy the milling crowds but not every minute of the day, there is a temporary escape. It is the Kampa. In order to reach the Kampa, you have to cross the Vlatava River on one of the most dramatic bridges in the history of Prague, the Charles. At either end this Baroque bridge has massive watchtowers, and impressive statues of saints and probably sinners lining both sides, The Jesuits claimed the best spots for their statues and the rest was left to other religious groups and to the aristocracy. This ancient bridge is not only famous for its colorful coronation processions and crowds of admiring tourists, but for its very adept pickpockets. They have the distinction of being the best in the world--but only the careless need worry. |
|
You find yourself, literally on an island with the River Vlatava on one side and the Certovka stream with its own ancient mill wheel on
the other.  |
|
 As you near the castle end of the bridge, turn left and descend the divided stairway. You will be entering the Kampa in Mala Strana or Lesser Town. It is one of the most picturesque and peaceful areas in the city. Suddenly, there is less noise and you are on a cobbled stone, village-like square with park benches, ornate street lamps and acacia trees On either side are small inns and dining places. Before you is the Kampa or green parkland with shade trees, strolling paths and gardens. You find yourself, literally on an island with the River Vlatava on one side and the Certovka stream with its own ancient mill wheel on the other. This is the place to take a deep breath, read a good book, have a sandwich al-fresco, while resting on the banks of the Vlatava, the mighty river the Germans call the Moldau, that inspired composer Bedrich Smetana's great symphonic poem, Ma Vlad (My Country.) |
|
In Grand Prior's Square is the John Lennon Wall covered in twentieth century grafitti.
|
|
 The small bridge over the Certovka takes you to the heart of Mala Strana. The romantic winding streets and squares grew slowly in a haphazard way over the centuries on the shadowed slopes of Hradcany, or castle area. The abundance of Baroque Palaces built for the most part by aristocrats and opportunists are now occupied mostly by foreign embassies. There is still an air of romance in this town of palaces. As you wander through Mala Strana's ancient history, strolling down twisting alleyways and into quiet corners, a surprise awaits you in Grand Prior's Square across from the French Embassy. It is the John Lennon Wall covered in twentieth century grafitti. Lennon was a hero to the pacifist youth subculture of Central and Eastern Europe during the Communist period. Spurred on by the words and lyrics he wrote, they came to paint on the wall their own feelings and dreams. They waged a small war of their own with the police who cleaned the wall of their subversion, but they came back again and again to protest in the only way possible. Next to a freely drawn portrait of Lennon are the words, "People don't die, they turn into flowers." |
|
When you are in Prague, give yourself the time and the freedom to explore.
 |
|
 At the end of the winding lane Nosticova, you will find the charming pension that was the family home of two of Prague's most famous architects, Christopher and son Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer. They were the foremost creators of the Prague Baroque and whose stamp is on the panorama of the city itself. They built grand cathedrals, convents, monasteries and palaces, as well as many small buildings in Prague and throughout the country. The St. Nicola's Cathedral and the St. Thomas Church are in the vicinity of this charming building which was their home and is now the secluded Pension Dientzenhofer. It has its own small garden with a walkway to the Cetrovka and several rooms have views of the river as well as the park. Staying in this surprising enclave on your visit to Prague engenders a feeling of being an insider in the city instead of a tourist quickly passing through. Just minutes from the pension and you are back into the thick of things. When you are in Prague, give yourself the time and the freedom to explore. If you spot an alleyway or building that interests you but is not on the itinerary, go for it. Dine in one of the local neighborhood restaurants. Czech chefs are not cordon bleu yet, but they are working on it. Talk to the folks on the next park bench, and ask them about their Prague. There is much more to this fascinating city than you will ever read in a travel book or article. Smell the roses along the way and discover your own less-traveled corners to remember. Judge for yourself if the predictions of the fairy tale are coming true. For additional information about Prague accommodations, go to: Prague Spot - Your Source for Accommodation in Prague : http://www.prague-spot.com/ Photos by: Mary Ashcraft, Rod Lopez-Fabrega, and courtesy of Czech Republic Tourism Bureau. |
|
|
|
© 2001 ROMAR TRAVEL GUIDES
|
|
|
|