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Europe




Biking France's Loire Valley

There is no better rhythm to exploring France's historic Loire Valley than the self-paced tempo of bicycle touring.

By Rod Lopez-Fabrega





The Loire River holds the glory of much of France's dazzling history in the magnificent chateaus that line its banks. Angers, Blois, Chennonceau and scores more: the names ring out like an ABC of Medieval, Renaissance, Baroque and Neoclassical architectural extravagances. But just a bit to the south, the Loire Valley and the Berry and Bourbannais regions embrace another gentler and more subdued world of ancient towns, stately manor houses, picturesque villages, luxuriant and bountiful farmlands, lush vineyards producing world-famed wines, and flowers everywhere. It is a less-traveled area, spared the frenzy of hurried tourism but a prime destination for the experienced traveler looking for "unspoiled".



Le Vieux Moulin:

There is no better rhythm to exploring this area than the self-paced tempo of bicycle touring that allows for explorations of back country lanes, leisurely riverside pique-niques with wine, cheese, pate and fresh-baked bread, and the time to interact with the locals in a meaningful way. For English-speaking recreational cyclists of all ages and all degrees of pedaling proficiency, there is no better place in the area to serve as a base than Le Vieux Moulin, a small French country estate located in the tiny village of Jouet-Sur-L'Aubois, Patinges in the eastern Loire Valley, 15 miles west of the city of Nevers. The handsome property is sandwiched between the placid L'Aubois River and the banks of the tiny Canal Berry.

 Le Vieux Moulin owned and operated by Frank Pettee, an American expat from Vail, Colorado and his French wife Coco, is a unique cycling center that provides bicycle-touring packages ranging from four days/three nights to seven days/six nights. While there are many competing cycling operations in France, Le Vieux Moulin is the only home-based operation, offering excellent accommodations in a registered historic site originally built in the 15th century as well as truly superb cuisine prepared currently by Coco Pettee and complemented by regional wines (the cost of breakfasts and dinners and one picnic lunch is included). The guesthouses--originally, the working mill and its outbuildings--have been completely remodeled to feature 12 bedrooms with private baths, two salons with wood-burning fireplaces and a dining area with bar.

Frank Pettee explains something of the history of his property, "The crest of the count who built the estate in the 15th century is still visible in the heat shield of the main fireplace. It's blackened by seven centuries of use, but you can still make it out. In those days, Le Vieux Moulin and the church were the two most important buildings in the village. The mill was used to grind oats and wheat for the villagers, and, of course, the farmers would bring their produce to the count's millhouse for processing. He would take a little tax. In time, this was one of the taxes that led to the French Revolution. The actual mill mechanism was right here where the dining room is now. There would have been a wooden paddle wheel in the river, a shaft through the wall and two stone grinding wheels here inside where the actual grinding took place."



The Rides:

Daily guided cycling excursions range from 20 to 40 miles (with options for longer rides) to explore more than 20 interesting destinations. Frank Pettee runs a tight ship, and buffet-style breakfast is at 8:00am daily, with departure promptly at 9:00am (or 9:15 or 9:30 on French time). Each cyclist is outfitted with his or her own Gitane hybrid cross bike, 21-speed, upright handlebars (models Evasion, Agate, Panama and Fit 600), helmet, water bottle, saddle bag and maps of the areas to be covered that day. A few pros bring their own bikes, but 98% of guests use the equipment provided. Children's bikes are available. In any case be sure to bring padded cycling shorts--unless your buns have the mandatory calluses of a pro cyclist.

Some days Le Vieux Moulin's van carries all the riders and their bikes to a base site some miles away. Other days for shorter rides, the group starts directly from Le Vieux Moulin. Most days Frank Pettee is at the lead, and currently, young American Andrew Adams, a category-two racing cyclist with the patience of Job and great compassion for struggling stragglers, brings up the rear. To put Andrew's qualifications in perspective, American Lance Armstrong, five-time winner of the Tour de France is rated category-one. When time allows from her tasks as cuisiniere (and her daytime job as an elementary school teacher), Coco Pettee joins the riders.

The Tours:



L'Abbaye de Fontmorigny:

On Mondays, the first day or arrival for all tours, guests have their first taste of the back roads of the area with a short afternoon ride to the Abbaye de Fontmorigny, affiliated with the Cistercian Order between the 12th and 18th centuries. The church itself has recently been restored and is noted for its exceptional acoustics. For that reason, it is often the site of piano and chamber music recitals. The gardens are beautifully kept, with herbs that grow to spectacular sizes in the rich soil of the area.




Sancerre:

A challenge to cyclists old and new comes on the second day. It is a longer ride North to the village of Sancerre, a Protestant stronghold in the 16th century but these days world famed for its fine white wines. The ride along undulating country roads on a sunny French Spring morning is breathtakingly beautiful, but the real challenge to the cyclists' lung capacity comes in the final quarter mile. Sancerre perches on the top of a hillside overlooking a stunning panorama of vineyards in all directions. Most pedal all the way to the top, but there's no shame in walking your bike, if so inclined. The village of Sancerre is a handsome community with picturesque streets snaking around the hillside, an open plaza surrounded by shops and restaurants, and the chateau topping off the hill. In the plaza, the Café des Artes is a pleasant, canvas-covered, open-air bistro where riders may chose to have an excellent light lunch. Also of interest in the village is a school with live-in accommodations for students of the French language.




Apremont-Sur-Allier:

One highlight of a seven-day/six-night tour with Le Vieux Moulin is the day riders visit the medieval village of Apremont-Sur-Allier. It is known officially as "Un des plus beaux villages de France", one of the most beautiful villages in France. Located between Berry and Burgundy on the Allier River, the charming village has been completely restored and is particularly noted for its Parc Floral, a spectacular flower garden complete with three follies, garden gazebos that were very much in fashion with French royals in earlier centuries. One outstanding structure is the Chinoiserie, an intricate little pagoda meant to evoke ancient China and set in the waters of the garden's lake. The floral park is open every day from Easter to September. With several hours to enjoy the sights of this village, cyclers are treated to a gourmet picnic lunch served from the tailgate of Le Vieux Moulin's van and enjoyed on the banks of the Allier alongside picnicking groups of vacationing French families.




Sancoins:

Another highlight is the day spent visiting the town of Sancoins/Sagonne. It is an early morning ride of about 42 miles total (with van support for part of the distance) to the South, cycling through the villages of Germigny L'Exempt and Vereaux to Sancoins. Le Vieux Moulin does this ride on Wednesdays because that is the day of the week Sancoins holds its marketplace, one of the largest in France. From early morning until early afternoon the streets of Sancoins are literally turned over to hundreds of stalls selling everything from plastic containers to incredible arrays of brilliant flowers, cheeses, pates, sausages, meats of all kinds, vegetables, live animals and, of course, throngs of shoppers. The main square is surrounded by shops, banks (with ATM machines), and, as in all French towns and villages, the church. This Gothic cathedral is well worth a special visit, and its cool interior provides a respite from the warm morning sun. Bikers have the option to have lunch at one of the many restaurants around the plaza or to shop for picnic supplies and walk a few blocks to the nearby canal for a private pique-nique. An interesting footnote is that bikes and helmets are left unlocked and unattended the entire morning with no danger of theft--a tribute to the characteristics of the French provincial lifestyle. Later, the tour continues to the fortress Chateau of Sagonne, once owned by the Count of Bourges and a ride through the canopied forest of Apremont before heading back to home base.




La Charite-Sur-Loire:

La Charite-Sur-Loire is the target on another day. On the way, riders cross the port village of Les Aubigny on the Canal Lateral La Loire to observe boats passing through its two canal locks. The approach to the historic city of La Charite-Sur-Loire, known as the city of books, is along a dramatic causeway that takes cyclers into this city past a street lined with bookstores. Also known for its cathedral dating back to the year 1000 A.D. and its imposing ramparts, the city is the location of the Priory of La Charite in Cluny Abbey. This religious complex was an important stopping place on the ancient route to Santiago de Compostela in Spain, a major pilgrimage center during the Middle Ages. The city today is a UNESCO World Heritage site. For a change of pace, a fun place for lunch is La Sauvette, a former wine cellar and now a memorable restaurant off the main square in front of the cathedral. It is staffed by young French Rastafarians, and its ancient stone arches reverberate with the recorded sounds of Donna Summer and other definitely non-traditional American voices.

Evenings at Le Vieux Moulin

Every afternoon, when cyclists return to Le Vieux Moulin, there is plenty of time to soak weary muscles in the Moulin's outdoor hot tub, shower and freshen up and have a relaxing glass of wine on the terrace or in the garden. Then comes one of the major attractions of life at the Moulin: the splendid many-course meals for which the property has become widely noted. Evenings at 8:00 pm, gourmet meals in the best French tradition are served with artful flourishes by Andrew or another of the multi-talented assistants on Frank Pettee's minimal staff. The menu one night may include Feuilletés d'escargots à l'ail (snails in oil), veau Marengo (a delicate veal dish), ratatouille, a crisp green Salade Paisanne au vinaigrette, a selection of fromages (including the area's noted goat cheese), and Ile Flottante (an incredible meringue floating in custard sauce and topped with caramel syrup and fresh berries). Menus vary nightly and without exception are memorable.

Regional wines are available at extra cost to accompany these fine meals. Some of these are Pouilly-Sur-Loire: Domaine Guy Saget; Mentou Salon: Domaine Gillart; Pouilly Fume; Chateau Nozet; Sancerre: Domaine Paul Thomas and others; Burgundy: Chateau Bouscart, Domaine Chassagne Montrachet.



Getting There:

From Charles De Gaulle Airport in Paris, Air France's public buses will take you at very reasonable cost into the city (you don't have to be an Air France passenger). Get off at the Gare de Lyon. Plan to take the 12:30 pm train # 5973 heading south. If you opt for first-class seats, remember that you must pay extra for reserved seats. A cold and over-priced lunch is served in first-class (best to bring your own). Get off at the Nevers station (a two-hour ride from the Gare de Lyon in Paris) where Le Vieux Moulin's van will pick you up for transfer to the Moulin. Of course, it is possible to self-drive from Paris, but the train ride is comfortable, fast and the schedule afforded by train #5973 allows for a cycling excursion from Le Vieux Moulin that same afternoon.

Note: Ownership changes of Le Vieux Moulin

October of 2005 marked a change of ownership for Le Vieux Moulin. Tired of the rat race, former software developer Steven Mitchener and his wife, Michelle Ballou purchased the business from founder Frank Pettee. Natives of Colorado, Steve has been an avid cyclist since childhood, and Michelle is a Francophile. The couple trained throughout 2005 with Frank and his wife Coco to insure a smooth transition. Steve and Michelle bring a new vitality to the business, along with some new amenities. The Moulin now offers the option of a LaPierre roadbike as a tour upgrade, freshly remodeled decor, and an expanded wine collection. Expect the same senic bike tours, wonderful food and hospitality that the Moulin was founded on.

For additional information:

1-800-368-4234

www.lvmoulin.com info@lvmoulin.com

direct line is: 011 33 2 48 77 00 46

and fax is 303-362-9498

Frank and Coco Now Offer Cycling in Provence

Frank and Coco Pettee the former Owners of Le Vieux Moulin Bicycle Tours, Patinges, France have relocated to Provence, France and are offering a new and unique concept for bicycle tours in the region surrounding the Mt. Ventoux, France. They will offer guided bicycle tours Monday's thru Friday's with number of guests limited to eight. The tours will include lunch at scenic outside restaurants and private residences to fully experience the Provencal lifestyle.

For additional information, visit Frank and Coco at www.provencebikecooking.com



© 2007 ROMAR TRAVEL GUIDES