PHOTO CREDIT: Creative Commons / mstefano |
If the hedonistic, touristy ambience of Italy's fashionable Lakes Garda (the largest in Italy) and Como are not your thing, consider the less-traveled yet striking Lago D'Idro and its surrounding string of glacial lakes parading along the Swiss-Italian border. |
 The smaller lakes of the area known to Italians as the "Autostrada del Laghi", have a more modest way of showing their splendor. With their crystalline pools streaming out of the Italian Alps, breathtaking mountain scenery, balconies hanging precariously over glistening blue waters and sleepy medieval villages dotted with timeless stone cottages, all represent the classic images of Italy in a tranquil setting. |
ISOLATED IDRO
PHOTO CREDIT: Creative Commons / mstefano |
PHOTO CREDIT: Creative Commons / mstefano |
Nestled between Lago di Garda and Iseo is one of the smallest lakes of the region, but it is only in size that Lago d'Idro is overshadowed by its bigger brothers. Trapped in the high valleys of the Brescian pre-Alpine mountain range, the intense deep blue water, forested slopes and rich history of the surrounding medieval villages make this an appetisingly adventurous area.
Fed by the River Chiese, the lake was made into a reservoir for irrigation and the generation of hydroelectric power in 1932. The glades of countryside and pointed peaks, that provide a backdrop for this spectacular setting, are complemented by a number of narrow and steep paths leading (either on foot or scrambling up the cliffs) to magnificent panoramic viewpoints up to 1400m in altitude.
From a bird's eye view you will be able to make out the four major communities of Bagolino, Bondone, Anfo and Idro keeping lots of charming architecture from the Middle Ages tucked away and encompassing many small and very welcoming villages. At only 12km in length and 2km in width, you can almost touch the boundary between Lombardia and Trentino-Alto Adige at the northern end of the shore.
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SLEEPY LEMPRATO
By the shimmering southern shoreline is the small hamlet of Lemprato, captivating as the sun sets with a golden glow beaming over the cascinas, courtyards and porticos creeping up the hillside. One of the many former fishing villages that face on to the lake, Lemprato has retained its allure in the cobbled streets that wind their way around the remains of an ancient Rhaetian-Roman settlement.
Known as Castello Antico and on the upper slopes of the village, it dates back to a time when the legions of Caesar were camped here. As you while away the evenings here, it becomes clear to everyone that the higher urban level was built not only as an act of prestige for the nobility but also as a defence system. As you descend towards the lake there are two arches that could have once formed part of a protective wall with a couple of entrances.
What has stood the test of time is the devotion of the locals to fishing, who most probably would have been the founders of these communities. Even in modern times the restriction of engines above 10HP has allowed serenity to live on in the form of sailors, surfers, swimmers and anglers eyeing up the fantastic trout on offer.
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WAR-TORN HISTORY: ANFO AND THE AUSTRO-HUNGARIANS
Should you attempt to walk the 24km shoreline you will pass a more dormant border dating back to the First World War. Running beside the River Droanello through the mountainous area of Valvestino and stretching all the way from Garda to Idro, it once formed the border between the Austro-Hungarian Empire and Italy. The villages of this valley are used to being passed around after previously being under the control of the Lords of Lodrone, also marking the frontier between the Hapsburg Empire and the Venetian Republic.
Consisting of a mere scattering of inhabitants (500 to be exact) the area is slowly developing from numerous isolated hamlets to an attractive tourist destination offering magnificent views over the region. However, despite the improvements to the network of roads, it is still not possible to drive all the way around Lago D'Idro with a car free coast stretching from the resort of Vesia to Porto Camarella. A plaque commemorating the original border lies in this zone on a steep rock above the lake on a tricky trail known as Smugglers Path.
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PHOTO CREDIT: Creative Commons / mstefano |
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On the other side of the lake lies another reminder of the part in history this area has had to play over the years. The village of Anfo was once the meeting point for enemies to point canons at each other and the fortress snaking its way up the mountainside is a reminder of more disturbed times. This impressive military structure, rebuilt by Napoleon after being initially erected by the Venetians in 15th Century, is without a doubt the showpiece of the area.
With architectural styles to show off from both the aforementioned periods, it has become something of an attraction since it was opened to the public in 2007. Even if you don't enter the labyrinth of narrow passageways and hidden tunnels, you can admire the steep steps and camouflaged turrets and interconnected forts dug out of the mountain at various heights.
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CROCE DI PERLE
In more peaceful times the popular trails leading from the shimmering lake to the towering peaks have provided vantage points for many a walker. The trek to the Croce di Perlè, in particular, blends many of the attractive characteristics of this area along with fabulous views. Beginning in a mini-gorge beyond the village of Crone, the route follows the river Neco as far as a refreshing waterfall, which may be sprouting icicles at the right time of year. The ravine must be crossed using a number of bridges and iron ladders, which in the thaw of early spring will be illuminated by the colourful flora on show, including the beautiful red primroses.
Away from the stream of water is a drier wooded valley that offers the occasional glimpse of what will be provided from the summit. The final stretch slopes out of the wood towards the peak, where striking views of the snowy Alps provide the perfect backdrop to the stillness of Lago D'Idro down below.
It is here from this vantage point that it becomes apparent how isolated Idro is, with the scattered shoreline communities being dominated by the foothills of the Alps from all angles. It is just far enough out of the way for these small villages to maintain their peaceful charming nature.
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If You Go:
Lago D'Idro is small at 12km long and 2km wide, but in the summer months between June and September it bursts into action with an invasion of German and Dutch tourists. Even so, this is nowhere near the scale of the larger lakes, so it is still possible to enjoy a relaxing trip here all year round. The natural stony beaches are easily accessible and the lake itself is very popular with surfers, sailors in the late morning and early afternoon when the winds are less strong. In the very early morning try a spot of rowing or canoeing on the calm waters, whilst walking the mountain trails past sleepy villages and beside the sparkling lake are a must.
If you're travelling by plane the best place to fly into is Milan Bergamo or Brescia (served by Ryanair direct from the United Kingdom or Alitalia indirect from the USA) and from here we recommend either taking a bus or hiring a car. Alternatively the larger Milan airports of Linate and Malpensa offer more options including British Airways and Easyjet from the UK and direct American Airlines from the USA. From here if you hired a car it would take roughly 2 ½ hours to reach Idro. To make your way around the lake we either suggest cycling, walking or hiring a car.
Useful websitesUseful websites:
www.bresciatourism.it
www.lagodidro.it
www.vallesabbia.info
www.bbilcastello.it/
www.aeroportobrescia.it/index_en.asp
www.sacbo.it/Airpor/portalProcess.jsp?languageID=2
www.trasportibrescia.it
www.trenitalia.com
www.fseonline.it
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