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Europe

Hungary: More than Budapest

The Puszta or Great Plains of Hungary will surprise and delight you with their combination of sophistication and rustic charm.

By Mary Ashcraft



Hungarians are proud that their country is one of the world's newest democracies.

After 1100 years of turbulent and magnificent history and forty years of foreign repression, the small European country of Hungary eagerly is welcoming tourists to enjoy its rich and unique culture. Though identifying strongly with their past, Hungarians are proud that their country is one of the world's newest democracies.

The Early Hungarians were nomadic tribes called Magyars, with a language like no other in the world and a culture deeply affected by the many foreign peoples that have occupied their country through the centuries: from Romans, Turks, the imperialists Habsburgs, to the Soviet Union. Following the collapse of the USSR in 1991, Hungary has developed close political and economic ties to Western Europe, and more than 85% of its economy has been privatized. It joined NATO in 1999 and is a frontrunner in a future expansion of the European Union.


...the descendants of the Magyars have clung fiercely to their own identity
Through it all, the descendants of the Magyars have clung fiercely to their own identity and are proud to have given the world 12 Nobel prize winners of Hungarian origin and three giants to the world of music: Franz Liszt, Bela Bartok, and Zoltan Kodaly. On a less exalted plane, Hungary is also the birthplace of Harry Houdini, Joseph Pulitzer and the Gabor sisters.

Although most of the city's medieval buildings were destroyed during World War II, it is still a showplace of Baroque, Neo-Classical, Art Nouveau, and eclectic style buildings.


Turkish-era thermal baths reflect the oriental atmosphere of a time when the Turks ruled Budapest.


Budapest

Today, the main international gateway to Hungary is through Budapest, one of the great cities of the world and the capital of a fledgling democracy just beginning to reassert its identity. Although most of the city's medieval buildings were destroyed during World War II, it is still a showplace of Baroque, Neo-Classical, Art Nouveau, and eclectic style buildings. Much work is in progress sprucing up this gem of a city. Its broad avenues and tree lined streets, sweeping bridges and park-like promenades along the Danube give Budapest a timeless elegance that speaks of the era when it was a part of the grand Austro-Hungarian Empire under the Habsburgs
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The city is divided into two parts, with historical Buda on one side and newer Pest on the other. In Buda the best view of the city is from old Castle Hill, site of the royal palace and its collection of museum galleries. Nearby is the 13th century church named for Hungary's King Matthias, location of the coronation of Emperor Franz Joseph (Franz Liszt composed his coronation Mass for the occasion), and the medieval district of quiet streets and restaurants.

Below on the river Danube is Margaret Island, named after the daughter of Emperor Franz Joseph. It is an area of pleasant parks and woodland, and ruins of the old convent where princess Margaret spent her life as a nun . It is an ideal place to stroll or hire a horse-drawn carriage.



One of the most interesting and relaxing things to do in Buda is to visit one of the Turkish-era thermal baths that reflect the oriental atmosphere of a time when the Turks ruled Budapest. Check out the ancient Turkish spa built 800 years ago for pasha Suleiman the Magnificent and join the neighborhood ladies as they socialize and enjoy themselves in the healing waters.

There are not many metropolises in the world that have a nature preserve and protected areas as Budapest has. The hilly Buda side has a Nature Protection Zone while on the Pest side there are several botanical gardens. All in all, Budapest is a cosmopolitan, fashionable and sophisticated city. It is easy to see why it has been called the Pearl of the Danube.



Not far beyond the boundaries of Budapest, the Great Plains or Puszta begin.
...the long cherished crafts and folklore of the country people are being given a showcase for visitors.


Puszta: The Great Plains

As interesting as Budapest is, it is only a small part of Hungary. Not far beyond the boundaries of Budapest, the Great Plains or Puszta begin. They are broad and stark and dramatic and cover almost half the land-mass of Hungary. It is a land of folk legends and cowboys and is reminiscent of our own great prairies or the Pampas of Argentina. This is where wheat fields and orchards are cultivated and it is the home of the famous Nonius horse, a powerful breed that won the title "Ideal Horse" at the Paris world exhibition in 1900.




In the Great Plains, the long cherished crafts and folklore of the country people are being given a showcase for visitors. Hungarian women, long known for the their extraordinary embroidery and lace-making skills, sell their works of art in typical blouses, table linens, shawls, etc. at truly bargain prices. Some of the Tanya czarda or farm houses in the plains are also tourist centers where the tourist can sample a variety of delicious Hungarian food while watching dancers perform in traditional costume, see cowboys on horseback putting Nonius horses through amazing stunts of daring, and even experience a mock wedding as a member of the family while tasting some of the famous local wines.



The Zoltan Kodaly institute of music is named after its native son who, with Bartok, is considered one of the founders of modern Hungarian music.




Keskemet

Farther into the Southern Plains, halfway between the Danube and the Tisza Rivers, is the town of Keskemet, ringed with vineyards and orchards. It has a peaceful and welcoming town square with trees and flower gardens. The architecture is a great Hungarian goulash of folk design, Gothic, Turkish, and Hungarian Art Nouveau. The Zoltan Kodaly institute of music is named after its native son who, with Bartok, is considered one of the founders of modern Hungarian music.




...in 893 King Arpad and seven rebel chieftains met and made a pivotal blood pact to join forces and exist in peace.


Opusztaszer

On a slight rise in the vast flat plains between Keskemet and Szeged is the National Historical Museum and park or Opusztaszer. The museum houses a 360-degree diorama commemorating the most important event in Hungarian history. It supposedly marks the spot where in 893 King Arpad and seven rebel chieftains met and made a pivotal blood pact to join forces and exist in peace. It is commonly referred to as the country's first parliament. Old style homes, looking very much like fanciful, elegant and oddly contemporary teepees dot the undulating grassy plains. Ruins of an 11th century basilica are there along with reconstruction of a typical turn-of-the-century country village. In the summer, artisans and craftspeople come from all over Hungary to sell their art. This event is more like a festival with music and dancing and typical food





Yellow predominates in the old buildings because the color was favored by the ruling Habsburgs.



Szeged

Szeged, with its classical, yellow buildings around the main square, is the largest and most cosmopolitan city on the southern plains. Yellow predominates in the old buildings because the color was favored by the ruling Habsburgs. It is one of the principal intellectual centers of Hungary, with two universities, a very active opera, theater and a long musical tradition. The Ferenc Mora Museum has an extensive collection of Hungarian folk art and archeological findings. In the old Jewish quarter, the Grand Synagogue, with its extraordinary tabernacle carved from acacia wood, is said to be the most beautiful in Hungary.


Debrecen is a busy city, better known as a place of leisure and tourism. Its main attraction is the Great Forest where a large recreational center has been created


Debrecen and Hortobágy

Debrecen in the Eastern Great Plains has been an important place since the Middle Ages, growing wealthy from salt, furs and cattle. In 1552, it was the center of the Calvinist movement and became known as the Calvinist Rome. By decree, only Calvinists were permitted to settle there. The Calvinist College has a museum dedicated to ecclesiastical art and a library with more than half a million books, the oldest dating from the 15th century.

Now, Debrecen is a busy city, better known as a place of leisure and tourism. Its main attraction is the Great Forest, where a large recreational center has been created with botanical and zoological gardens, health spas, camping areas, a large sports arena and the biggest amusement park in Hungary. Families are welcome here, and there are interesting things to do and see for people of all ages. About 24 miles west of Debrecen is Hortobágy National Park, a preserve of wetlands, marshes and grasslands that is one of the finest bird-watching sites in Europe. All visitors must be accompanied by a guide, and no motor vehicles are allowed.



There is a saying in Hungary that God created Hungarians to sit on the back of a horse, and they have a long tradition to justify the saying.


An old equestrian tradition

There is a saying in Hungary that God created Hungarians to sit on the back of a horse, and they have a long tradition to justify the saying. Even today, Hungarian cowboys have an uncanny rapport with their horses, unlike any other equestrians, as is demonstrated when they perform their amazing riding skills. At Epona Village in Hortobagy National Park, visitors can watch these cowboys rounding up ponies at full gallop and marvel at the dangerous "Five-in-hand" where one cowboy stands astride a powerful Nonius horse while reining four others as they race at a full gallop around the field.

The Nonius is a rare Hungarian breed that won first prize in 1900 at the Paris World's Fair as "the most perfect horse"; and caring for these superb horses is one of the main purposes of Epona.

Epona Village is also a four-star hotel that caters to the pleasure rider. In addition to the hotel, there are fully equipped, spacious apartments, some with attached stable for people who love to vacation with their own horse. There are special programs for beginning and advanced riders, dressage, jumping, carriage driving, hunt riding and Hortobagy Puszta tours. It's a great place to stop for lunch or dinner or to choose one of the 400 horses from the stables for a ride through the countryside. On the other hand, you can forget the horses entirely and enjoy a massage and a relaxing swim in the pool, under a vaulted ceiling and with a splendid view of the forest.

During the year 2000, a special package was offered of 6 days / 5 nights in a double room and including day tours on horseback every day. Prices included full board and the use of the swimming pool, sauna and fitness room.

Prices ranged around $540 for the package with a $90 single surcharge.

Epona Riding Village Hotel:

http://www.epona.hu/szoveg_falu_e.htm


Eger is a great tourist town, and with its meticulously cared for and protected Baroque buildings, there is something of interest at every turn.


Eger

Foreign visitors and Hungarians find Eger a great tourist town. It is a visual treat with its meticulously cared for and protected Baroque buildings and something of interest at every turn. Most of the city center is closed to traffic so that sightseeing while walking is easy and desirable. There are popcorn venders in the plazas and coffee shops with tables al fresco for relaxing and watching the passing parade.

A climb up the cobblestone lane to the legendary Eger Castle is the best place to see the town below. The castle is now a museum offering complete historical data of Eger's fascinating past. The Episcopal Cathedral in neo-classical style features statues of saints and Hungarian kings by the renowned Venetian sculptor, Marco Casagrande. If you are there on a Sunday, make a point of visiting the cathedral in the evening for the free organ recitals. All are welcome.
Eger has a reputation as a wine-producing town, and the Wine Museum is a good place for sampling Bulls Blood, its most famous red wine. The more adventurous visitor might like to visit the cellars in the vineyards nearby. During the harvest in September there are wine celebrations throughout the town. The festivities have long been a favorite with Europeans and Hungarians alike.

The Great Plains of Hungary are rich in contrasts of old and new. Its combination of sophisticated cities and rural settlements add up to a place where reality and imagination blend together. More than just its renowned capital city, Hungary is the sum of its many interesting parts and well worth a visit.



More than just its renowned capital city, Hungary is the sum of its many interesting parts and well worth a visit.
Getting there:

Lufthansa Airlines provides excellent daily service to Budapest's Ferihegyi International Airport from its nine U.S. gateways. These direct flights depart from J.F.K., Newark, Boston, Miami, Washington D.C., Dallas, Houston, Los Angeles, and Chicago with an intermediate stop in Frankfurt.

Lufthansa Airlines: http://www.lufthansa-usa.com

Another airline to consider is Malev Hungarian Airlines with service six days a week from New York's JFK Airport. The airline flies Boeing-767 aircraft across the Atlantic, and its fleet of Soviet aircraft has been completely replaced by Western Aircraft.

Malev Hungarian Airlines: info@hungarianairlines.com




Photo Credits: Mary Ashcraft, others courtesy of Tourism Hungary Corp.


© 2000 ROMAR TRAVEL GUIDES