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Europe




GEORGIA: Road to Europe

Natalia Motili, a native of Moldova gives her travel impressions of the Republic of Georgia, formerly a part of th USSR. Ms Motili tells it like it is.

By Natalia Motili


A native of the Republic of Moldova, once the Moldavian Soviet Socialist Republic, Natalia Motili was born in 1974, seventeen years before the independence of her country from what once was the USSR. She got her first degree in Philology in Romania and her MBA in Moldova. During 5 years of studies far from home she constantly was sending letters to her family and probably this, along with studies in philology, led to her interest in developing her writing talents.

Currently, she works in an international organization that provides assistance to local governments in Moldova. She applies her writer's skills there as well, writing success stories about communities in Moldova.

Recently, she traveled to Georgia, another former Soviet Socialist Republic, and pulling no punches, this is what she found:


It is night--3:00 a.m., to be exact. The road from the airport to the city center seems long but well lighted. Segments of the road have been excavated and are closed, so it is necessary to use the poorly illuminated, narrow back streets of Tbilisi. On our way we drive over cobbled streets that give a strong impression of the old city.

I am a native of Moldova, another small, very young democracy in Eastern Europe, and from the very first moments of arrival, I've been making comparisons between the two countries: Moldova and Georgia. I find myself registering even the smallest similarities and differences. Already in the first hours of travel it becomes clear: Moldovans and Georgians have many similarities.
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Both Moldova and Georgia are called "sunny" countries, and such a climate has allowed both countries to plant vineyards for centuries and to produce highly appreciated wines. Both Moldovans and Georgians like very much to communicate, and the leisurely and abundant meals that are a custom for both nations offer ample possibilities for table talk. Cuisines of both countries have identical dishes. Georgian dolma looks exactly like Moldovan sarmale on the outside, and only by biting a piece can one taste the difference. Hospitality for both nationalities is a mandate, and the status of a guest in these countries is higher than that of a relative. Their friendliness is reflected in the way Georgians address even strangers as, "Dear".

The territorial aspects of these two small countries also have some similarities. Both have experienced armed conflicts within their territories, namely: Transnistria in Moldova and Abkhazia in Georgia. Georgians speak very tenderly about Abkhazia on the eastern shores of the Black Sea. Once a part of Soviet Georgia, this tiny territory is now the independent Republic of Abkhazia. The area was best known for its prime resorts for vacationers from all over the Soviet Union as well as for its major cash crops of tea, tobacco and citrus fruits. Georgians wryly compare the geographic shape of Georgia to the "Golden Fleece", the ram's pelt of mythology, now "decapitated" without Abkhazia.

Georgian Aspirations:

But what is most important, both Moldova and Georgia are seriously oriented towards integration with Europe. Visible testaments to this goal are the many declaration made daily by politicians and other high officials on TV screens and printed pages as well as by the many organizations and institutions hurrying to change their Russian language signboards to ones in English.

Multiple flags with European symbols also prove that Tbilisi is almost a European capital. European symbols can be met in the city quite often-- even on the flower bed in the center of the city, where the flags of Europe seem to be embroidered in blue and yellow flowers.

National Geographic and other foreign publications are sold in Tbilisi on the streets along with local newspapers. Restaurant menus offers information about meals in several European languages. People speak about integration to Europe at the bus stations, canteens and art galleries.



One can find an art gallery in Tbilisi at every 100 meters (more numerous than fire hydrants), where Georgian painters, photographs and other artists display their art. And as water satisfies physical thirst during a hot day or helps put out a fire, these art galleries satisfy a great thirst and a great burning desire for beauty on the part of a population parched for international culture.

But not only galleries carry out this role. Old neighborhoods and the buildings in them, many miraculously preserved, also bring joy to the eyes of visitors to the capital. Walking these neighborhoods, the impression created is that of a huge cinema studio where a film about Georgia of the last century is being filmed, and everything is part of a movie set.

Before the arrival of American President George Bush in May 2005, the center of Tbilisi received extensive "plastic surgery". Facades of buildings were repaired and bright make-up was applied, allowing the central avenue of the city to have a fresh look as if a cleansing summer rain had come to Tbilisi after a drought. This is surface cosmetics, while secondary streets continue to have a downcast appearance. When you see cracks in the walls of the residential buildings and churches which appeared as a result of a 1991 earthquake, it becomes clear that one more earthquake will be destructive for the "houses of cards". If that happens, it will be a tragedy to lose these wonderful "movie sets" but even a bigger catastrophe if a natural disaster takes human lives.

When the Sun Shines Brightly in Georgia:

The burning sun during Europe's scorching summers can also be considered a natural disaster. On a recent Sunday the city remained for several hours without electrical energy, electrical wires being melted because of the intense heat. But people in Georgia are more resistant than metal.
Even during the hottest day nobody in Tbilisi wears sunglasses or a hat as protection from the sun. A foreigner can be immediately recognized by wearing this stuff. Perhaps Georgians love the sun so much that they consider it a sin to hide from it. Georgians sing hymns of praise to the sun. The sun is one of the symbols of Georgia, and graphic depictions of it can be found on the walls of the ancient churches, on the tails of the modern airplanes, on the banknotes and other objects which are identified with Georgia.



The Monuments:

Georgia has many monuments--and not only architectural. Sculptures of different famous historical people, artists and scientists are waiting in the most unexpected places and positions. But the statue of a heroic woman--Mother Georgia--keeps an eye on everything that happens in the city. She stands high on a hill overlooking Tbilisi, on duty day and night. She is friendly, and threatening at the same time. She keeps a cup in one hand and a sword in the other.



The People:

Georgian children, even small ones, are very expressive. Boys make gestures similar to those of grown-ups, using their hands to accent their words. There are many street children, and these are so tenacious that they can be compared only with briars and burdock. They clutch your clothes and halt your progress, until a grown-up will pick them off by scolding them in Georgian.

In Tbilisi, it is rare to meet an elderly lady with a sunshade umbrella or a lady in her middle years shading her face with a newspaper or magazine. On the other hand, there are the men. They give the impression that they flirt with the sun with their handkerchiefs. Georgians wear them on their necks or hold them in their hands. Just follow how many operations they perform with handkerchiefs: they twist, swing, roll up, whirl, wave, fold, crumple, wet them and many other operations. Georgian men also attract attention by the manner in which they greet each other: clapping each other's backs, they kiss each other. Women do not express such a vivid delight meeting other women.

Women who beg on the streets do it more diplomatically but with no less insistence, trying different languages on anyone who looks like a foreigner and repeating, "one Lari" (approximately US$ 0.55). On our way to visit ruins on the top of a hill, a girl we met immediately understood that my husband and I are foreigners, and with a smile on her face greeted us several times with, "Hello". We were surprised later on our return flight from Tbilisi on Georgian Airlines that this girl was pictured in an article about UNICEF in Georgia in the first issue of the airline's in-flight magazine.

Everywhere, children, teenagers and even beggars speak European languages fluently, an indication of the serious intention of Georgians to establish contacts with Europe.



Georgian Optimism:

One can find much proof of the love Georgian people have for their new president, Mikheil Saakashvili. His portraits can be found on walls and fences, unmarred by graffiti. If Georgians mention their president in discussions, they tenderly call him "Mishka". Georgians are aware of his weaknesses, but they have high expectations of him.

The Rose Revolution that took place in November 2003, placed a strong foundation for hope in the souls and minds of Georgians. They expect a lot from their new president, and he tries not to disappoint them. As Moses led the Jews from Egypt and as Joshua Navin led the Jewish nation into the promised land, the Georgian president and his team hope to pave the road for the people of Georgia into Europe.

The Lessons of Georgian Highways:

Part of the preparations for joining Europe include fighting corruption, and that is a struggle that is taking place in Georgia. It was felt that the police were at the very top of the corruption rating, and that is probably why reforms were first begun in this sector. Salaries of policemen were raised, with the condition that they not "milk" drivers they pull over on highways. The agreement is respected, and there are no policemen along the roads of Georgia, who will request a "supplement" for their salaries from targeted drivers.

Instead, there are many cows patrolling traffic along the roads of Georgia. Giving them credit for more bovine intelligence than they deserve, the cows may have smelled out the conditions of free movement of goods, people and information in Europe and may be trying to defend rights of animals for free movement in Europe.

The driving style of motorists on the streets of Tbilisi can be easily described but not easily explained. A pedestrian can stand for 20 minutes at a corner in front of the crossing zone waiting for a possibility to take the first step, but none of the cars will stop. Every time while crossing the road a pedestrian must experience something of what Anna Karenina, Tolstoy's fictional heroine must have felt when the whole world seemed to be rushing in at her. The poor pedestrian will have the impression that every car speeds towards him. It requires courage to make it to the center of the road, and it will not be easier to cross the second half of the road.

In Tbilisi there are multitudes of small buses and countless miles of bus routes. When the crowded buses line up one after another, you recall math's lesson. Attempting to examine their license plates is another lesson--this one in many languages and clever abbreviations. Attempting to examine their license plates is a lesson in many languages and clever acronyms. There are plates with numbers like BUS, VIP, WWW, USA and many other short words and abbreviations!

Some Negatives and Many Positives:

Georgians adopted Christianity in the 4th century AD, and since then they are tolerant of other religions. In Tbilisi one can find houses of worship for Jews, Armenians, Catholics and Christians, all in the same neighborhood at a short distance from each other. What is most important, they all are functioning.

Representatives of the animal reign (such as cats and rats) also live in peace with each other in Georgia. Without disturbing each other, cats idly stay in the shadow, while rats rummage in the piles of waste near the buildings. Can this be interpreted to mean that the ship of Georgia is not sinking yet? It is a known fact that rats flee from a sinking ship. One can see used medical syringes on the streets of Tbilisi. Can this be proof of a high level of medical services in Georgia, perhaps provided curbside?

However, this poor housekeeping is symptomatic of the still developing infrastructure of a previously repressed country. On the very positive side, Georgia is a truly rich country. Its richness consists of extremely varied landscapes, minerals, agricultural products and a compelling history. Many legends about the richness of Georgia stem from the fact that the fabled Silk Road to the Orient went through Georgia. According to Greek legend, Argonauts went to ancient Colchis (now part of modern Georgia) to obtain the "Golden Fleece". With an informed eye, the richness of Georgia can be appreciated in its museums and is there to be seen with the naked eye in its land, population and cities. Antiquities are sold in Tbilisi at the open air market like fruits and vegetables. But the main treasure of any country is its people, and it does not matter if they are poor or rich. They are all extremely valuable. This is particularly true of Georgians. After getting to know them better, the visitor will understand that Georgia is poor and struggling in economic terms but extremely wealthy in other ways that count. Georgia is reaching out to the West to help it along.

There is genuine progress as Georgia hurries to enter into Europe. Georgia has begun rapidly repairing its roads. Streets in the whole center of the city are being excavated, and every day more and more meters of black asphalt make Georgia physically closer to Europe.

Georgians are seriously making their plans to win the hearts of Europeans. In 2006 Europe will hear how Georgians sing. For the first time Georgia will participate in the Eurovision contest. Georgians already have made their selection of participants, and the winners are impatiently waiting for this opportunity to present themselves and their country. It should be something really special because the voices of Georgians reflect the power and strength of their mountains.
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Accommodations in Tbilisi:

There is an ample choice of good tourism accommodations in Tbilisi, ranging from international brand, four-star hotels to local establishments. Some of these are: the Sheraton Metechi Palace Hotel, Tbilisi; Courtyard Tbilisi; Marriott Tbilisi; Best Eastern Hotels; and more.



A Final Thought:

As we head for home, an old Volga taxi of Russian manufacture takes us toward the airport through the city of Tbilisi, which is stretched along the Kura River. Time in Georgia moves quickly. Taxi also are able to move quickly this time on the new, freshly repaired roads. The taxi's meter marks the distance traveled in kilometers and Russian Rubles, although Georgia for a long time has had its own currency, the Lari. If Georgia will keep its orientation towards European integration, during our next visit to Georgia it will be necessary to pay the taxi driver in Euros.


Photo Credits:

Natalia Motili;
Euro currency illustrations courtesy of ASIA Travel Tips (http://www.aisatraveltips.com )


© 2005 ROMAR TRAVEL GUIDES