Head to Galicia, Spain's northern province and start wondering if, in fact, you really are in Spain. It's hard to imagine a more striking difference in culture, landscape, food and even language than what you will discover exploring Galicia and particularly the stretch between Cap Finisterre and Malpica along the Atlantic Ocean, known as the infamous "Coast of Death".

The name alone conveys a sense of drama, mysteries and foreboding. Not for nothing is Cap Finisterre also called the End of the World and when you stand on the cliffs just below the famous lighthouse your eyes are met with nothing but the vast expanse of the gray Atlantic, huge waves crashing against the rocks even on a fine summer day

What makes the ride interesting is that you will be confronted with the local language, Gallego or Galician. Derived from Latin, Gallego is closely related to Portuguese with Spanish elements and it's wise to learn a few words. Galicia is very proud of her language which, in the times of Franco, was forbidden and has since undergone a huge revival.

Many road signs and even explanations in museums and other sites are in Gallego and sometimes not even a Spanish translation is provided. Get a small pocket dictionary, hop on the coach and be immediately surrounded by hospitable and friendly locals, who will feed you empanadas, almond cakes called Tarta de Santiago and freely advise you on any subject related to your travel.

Pilgrims from all over the world congregate on the harbor or in the many cafeterias gathering strength for the final hike of 1 ½ miles uphill towards Cap Finisterre, where they are supposed to burn their boots and hiking clothes in a symbolic act of leaving their old life and their sins behind and starting a new one.

In Finisterre proper you will also find the Lonxa or fish market where the daily catch is noisily auctioned off. Adjacent is the maritime museum with exhibits of old and new fishing gear and, most compelling, a video which shows why the Coast of Death came by its name. It documents the extremely dangerous life of Galicia's fishermen defying storms and waves to bring home their catch. Maps and photographs tell the tales of the many shipwrecks that occurred over the centuries along the coast and contributed to its morbid name.

Join the pilgrims and make the final journey to the lighthouse on foot. Be careful though, there are no sidewalks, the road is winding and the cars tend to go much too fast. The walk affords breathtaking views of the Atlantic, the outlying islands and, half way up, a statue of a female pilgrim, always with a fresh bunch if flowers in her arm, cheers you on for the final climb. If you are lucky, you can even witness a boot burning ceremony.

Accommodation is plentiful. Following the advice of a fellow bus passenger, the Hotel Anchora was a great choice. It's clean, cheap and as it turned out, the owner's daughter is a never ending source of Galicia's tales of hermits, witches, shipwrecks and history which she is happy to share.

Eating in Galicia:

After all that climbing, the stomach starts growling and its time to sample some of Galicia's cuisine. There are two dishes which can be called national: pulpo (squid) and Cocido Gallego. The pulpo in Galicia is nothing like the rubbery rather bland pieces of string dipped in batter one is so often served elsewhere.

Galicia's pulpo is steamed in huge copper pots, then the tentacles are cut up into big chunks, laced with olive oil, lemon juice and spices and eaten piping hot. Tender like chicken and accompanied by the local coarse bread the dish is filling and delicious.

Cocido Gallego is a more serious matter. It's a stew the ingredients of which are potatoes, carrots, chicken peas and other vegetables, chicken, chorizo ( a spicy sausage), bacon and pig trotters. It's cooked until everything is tender, then the broth with chicken peas and potatoes is served first, followed by the meat and other vegetables.

You can also have any kind of seafood, from lobster to enormous king prawns (carabinieri), shrimps, salmon, swordfish and of course, oysters. American visitors may have a problem with oysters, because they are always eaten raw with a sprinkling of lemon juice and freshly ground pepper. Do not even try to ask for fried oysters! Finish off with some of Galicia's cone-shaped cheeses.

Galicia's wines are famous. The moist and mild climate favors the growing of grapes and there are many vineyards through out the province. Try red, white or Rosado from the Ribeiro and Rias Baixas regions. Yes, they make beer too! What is the same as in the rest of Spain is the coffee culture with an endless variety of ways to drink it such as: cortado, nube, carajillo, café con leche, etc.

A final word about the weather. The coast of death is of course only a part of the entire province of Galicia, and the climate varies. It tends to be warmer and milder towards Vigo and rougher towards La Coruna. Generally speaking, it rains a lot, even during the summer months which makes for the lush vegetation and dense forests for which Galicia is famous. Even July and August can have cold spells, so rain protection and a sweater should not be missing from your travel luggage and neither should good hiking shoes.

If you are looking for a lesser known part of Spain and are interested in wild landscapes, forests, rias, history and folklore rather than roasting on a beach, Galicia is the place to go.