County Clare, Ireland


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A less-traveled area in a much-visited country, Ireland’s rocky coastline of Country Clare offers a stunningly beautiful landscape that compels many visitors to translate their feelings to prose.

I embarked on my first visit to Ireland with great expectations fueled by family and friends who had been to the Emerald Isle and returned boasting about green pastures, gentle hills, genuine hospitality and, of course, traditional Irish music, pubs and Guinness. Of all the places we visited one stuck with me, the rocky coast of County Clare, and in a mystical way I feel it hasn't let go of its hold.

Many wonderful narratives can be found in books, travel magazines and on the internet that paint a vivid picture of the rocky coast of County Clare. The stunning beauty of the unique landscape compels many visitors to translate their feelings to prose.

I came away with the same desire after a journey that began at The Burren and went south to the Cliffs of Moher, but for a different reason. While there is no denying the region rivals the most scenic on earth, I was captivated by an intrinsic power emulating from prehistoric rock formations and majestic cliffs that transcends visual beauty to a supernatural magnetic force.

The Burren:

The otherworldly vistas of the Burren, fittingly described as a lunar landscape, consist of over one hundred square miles of prehistoric limestone and rock formations that stretch as far as the eye can see. Along the coast reside a zigzag of cliffs that disappear into the Atlantic Ocean in a myriad of shapes and heights. The landscape is perilous but compared to the force of the 214m (702 ft) shale and sandstone Cliffs of Moher, just a short drive down the coast, they are like a little brother.

Hiking across the coastal stretch of the Burren is treacherous and unforgiving. The rocky landscape is relentless and leaves little room for distraction. Navigating the cliffs along the coast can be dangerous and the beauty so mesmerizing it is capable of luring you into a sense of comfort. Hikers should be as resolute with their footing as the escarpment is ruthless in its drop to the sea. Despite the perils, the rewards are just as wonderful when you become enveloped at every turn by magnificent rock formations that seem endless no matter how far you venture.

Most of the region is safe as long as you take the proper precautions, understand and respect the environment and exercise common sense. During our visit we had a party of nine that included eight adults, my daughter-in-law who was six months pregnant, and my grandson not quite two. We were all able to venture to see some of the most dramatic views without feeling threatened. There are miles of hiking trails with difficulty ranging from beginner to expert. The key to a safe hike is to know your capabilities and limitations and never put yourself in a dangerous situation.

While the Burren is known for its undulating limestone topography, there are over 600 different flowering plants. The unlikely coexistence of rock with grasslands, heathland, woodland and scrub make the Burren as diverse a landscape as anywhere on earth. During a day of hiking it is possible to peer over cliffs that drop hundreds of feet into the ocean depths, view Mediterranean, arctic and alpine plants, and walk along miles of stone walls rising from the grasslands. Such diversity cannot be found anywhere else in Europe.

The flora is able to thrive due to two primary factors: First, the ability of limestone to absorb and store heat from the sea and sunshine during the warmer months, and second the temperate climate influenced by the gulfstream, which provides the west coast of the country a warm, moist air stream which is an essential element in survival of Mediterranean species.

The Cliffs of Moher:

A myriad of accounts exist describing the appeal of the Cliffs of Moher on the visual and olfactory senses. Lush green pastures blanket hills that ease their way to the cliffs leaving no doubt why this is the Emerald Isle. Sandstone, siltstone and shale walls wearing only patches of moss shoot from the cobalt waters of the Atlantic Ocean. The salt air is shared with a variety of seabird species inhabiting this protected habitat, most notably Puffin, Razorbill and Guillemot.

There is an absence, however, of narrative describing the magnetic forces that reside along this coastal region. The natural beauty draws the typical tourist equipped with camera or easel and brushes, but a powerful magnetism like the gravitational pull lures individuals with acute sensory faculties and can only be quenched by experiencing the natural wonder at lands' edge. The force entices those affected up the hill to the precipice and strikes with an awe-inspiring panorama capable of leaving anyone speechless.

The force of the cliffs is enough to induce vertigo to the predisposed. A sign belonging to the Samaritans, an organization that provides emotional support to people feeling distress and despair, hangs on the slate wall lining the walkway which reads, "Need to Talk" with a phone number. Further along, a memorial honoring those who lost their lives at the cliffs greets the adventurous who ignore the "No Trespassing" sign to meander along a narrow path with nothing but air separating them from an abrupt 214m drop into the Atlantic. The tourist area is well maintained and the safety of a stone wall stands between visitors and danger, however the sign and monument are profound reminders of a force strong enough to tilt the scale of the timid.

The Cliffs of Moher possess similar characteristics as the Burren and visitors exercising caution and common sense will find them as pleasant and beautiful as any attraction in the world. The contrasting the green pastures leading to the cliffs against the backdrop of the deep blue sea make it among the most visited sites in Ireland.

The unique landscape inspires artist, photographers and musicians to set up and practice their craft. While ascending the walkway toward O'Brien's Tower which is perched at the highest point of the cliffs, I heard a harpsichord in the distance. As we approached a small crowd was gathered around a young musician playing chords that were in perfect harmony with the majestic surroundings. Moments such as these are meant to be savored.

The Coastal Town of Doolin:

Doolin, a small town situated along the coast, is a short distance central to both the Burren and Cliffs of Moher, making it the perfect base to explore both areas. The town is off the beaten path with a population of about 500. Most people outside County Clare are challenged to know its reputation as the unofficial capital of traditional Irish music.

Like so many quaint towns and villages in Ireland, if you blink while driving through you will miss an opportunity to experience genuine Irish heritage unencumbered by tourism. Downtown Doolin is an abbreviated series of shops that include arts and crafts, traditional music and pubs. Nightlife centers around the town's three pubs, Gus O'Connor’s, McGann's and McDermott's.

The final night of our journey we settled in for an evening of traditional Irish music and Guinness at McGann's Pub. Our night was stuffed with conversation and laughter accompanied by the warmth and hospitality of the locals. Irish musicians played the night away and were joined by a Welshman who was in the crowd with his guitar.

We exchanged stories and tall tales with three rock climbers from outside Dublin who told us they travel to the west coast of County Clare each year to test their skills. After spending two weeks traveling around Ireland it was easy to understand what lured them back for their annual pilgrimage. We ended a perfect Irish evening in style by closing the pub and walking a mile back up the hill to our hotel with only the stars to guide our way.

The rocky coastal region of County Clare is a natural marvel possessing sublime power that pulsates between awe and reverence. While the beauty encountered along the coast provides pleasure to the visual senses, the intensity of the vast rock structures and majestic cliffs is captivating. The forces of nature that reside in the region are unmatched by manmade inventions and capable of leaving an agnostic to reconsider. It is power that quenches a thirst for natural beauty as well as the mystic

A few thoughts for those with limited time who are planning a trip to Ireland:

I planned the trip centered in three locations that would serve as base to see and experience as much of the Emerald Isle as two weeks would allow without burning out. We began in County Clare for the first two days before traveling south to Killarney for a week. After taking in much of the south and west we headed back to County Clare for two more days then drove to County Monahan for the final three days.

It was a full two weeks and we were successful in experiencing so much of Ireland; Killarney National Park, Gap of Dunloe, Blarney, Jameson's Distillery, Kinsale along the southern coast, Kenmare at the southern point of the Ring of Kerry, Dingle Peninsula, Dublin, Belfast, Trim and on and on.