R
Central American and the Carribean




Havana, 2006

This is Havana, pearl of the Spanish empire, melting pot of cultures, world hub of forbidden pleasures in the first half of the 20th century and face of Soviet totalitarianism in the second half--now embarked on a solitary voyage into the 21st century.

By Barbara Torresi


Picture this: winter is approaching and the normally peaceful Caribbean is ruffled by strong waves that burst furiously against the low seawall. Sprinkled by the ocean's silvery mist a long line of porticoed colonial buildings stretches along the waterfront, melting unexpectedly into socialist high-rises in the distance. Meanwhile, on the other side of the bay, a gigantic statue modelled on Rio de Janeiro's Christ watches benevolently over the city from atop a dramatic hill.

This is Havana, pearl of the Spanish empire, melting pot of cultures, world hub of forbidden pleasures in the first half of the 20th century and face of Soviet totalitarianism in the second. All told, it is a fabulous city that has suffered major environmental degradation through the years with the aid of devastating hurricanes, economic crises, demographic explosions, and general governmental neglect. Not for long though, or at least not anymore.

Since 1982, when UNESCO inscribed Habana Vieja and its system of fortifications on the World Heritage list, considerable efforts have been made to restore the capital of Cuba to its ancient splendour. The process caught momentum after the collapse of the socialist block when the country was forced to open up to Western tourists.

To cater to this tourism special powers were given to the historian and entrepreneur Eusebio Leal Spengler. Head of the Historian's Office of the city. Señor Leal obtained permission to reinvest the profits of the commercial ventures under his management into restoration projects. He financed museums, travel agencies, hotels, shops, restaurants and bars, slowly reanimating the joyful spirit of a city that has never really stopped swinging.




First Steps: Old Havana And Its Colonial Heritage:

Havana was founded in 1519 on the west side of a natural bay named after a local Indian chief. During the first century of its existence the city was plundered by French and English pirates. In response, the royal crown built the Castillo de la Fuerza in 1538 and the Castillo del Morro in 1597. Although, by and large, neither of the fortifications managed effectively to protect the city from attacks, Havana gained one of the most stunning examples of colonial military architecture in the world. No matter how short is your stay in Cuba, a visit to the lighthouse inside the Castillo del Morro and the breathtaking view from its top are worth the price of your flight.

Across the bay from the fortifications is the other half of the capital, the old town, classified by UNESCO as a world heritage site. Despite incessant pirate incursions during the 16th and 17th centuries the settlement flourished and developed into a tangle of narrow streets extending from the bay's western seashore to fortified walls (demolished in the 1860's) to the east. During the following centuries new buildings were added parsimoniously to the settlement inside the walls, so that it is still early colonial architecture that dominates Habana Vieja's magnificent squares.

The oldest is Plaza de Armas, built in 1584 for military exercises. Today the space is occupied by a leafy garden edged by stalls selling books on Cuban history and, if you have a sharp eye and dig hard enough through the mountains of cheap post-revolution editions, even the occasional collector's gem. On its western edge the square is flanked by the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, which was Havana town hall for 176 years and is now the city museum. It hosts the old Council Chamber, the palace quarters, and an exhibition room that depicts the war of independence from Spain.



A few hundred meters north of this square lays Plaza de la Catedral, another masterpiece of colonial design. The cathedral, uniquely asymmetric with spires of different dimensions, dominates a square that seems almost too small to contain its heavy structure, only partly mitigated by the airiness of the surrounding galleried buildings. This is probably the touristiest of Habana Vieja's squares, teeming with picture-posers for hire, individuals dressed up as Spanish marquises, Creole debutantes, Belle Époque gangsters and tobacco factory workers in seventeenth century costumes. But, surprisingly, Plaza de la Catedral is also one of the city's most authentic corners, unspoiled by the modern commercial outlets mushrooming all over the historical center.



At the other end of the axis of restored calles, streets that link the old town's landmark locations, you will encounter Plaza Vieja, radically renovated during the last decade with the demolition of an underground parking lot that obscured its harmonious layout. Attractions of the square include the Camara Obscura for a view of the city's skyline and the bar Plaza Vieja. With its fin de siècle atmosphere and delightfully incongruous micro-brewed beer this is an excellent refreshing stop on your way to the 19th century barrio of Centro Habana.



Off The Beaten Track:

In the Cuban capital straying from tourist itineraries brings little danger from violent criminal attacks, but considerable nuisance from swarms of hagglers and jineteros, the local term for hustlers. By crossing the Parque Central and venturing into Centro Habana you will become a sitting duck for cigar counterfeiters, rum peddlers, moneychangers and the omnipresent jinetera offering anything from sexual services by the hour to marriage. If, however, being pestered for money or having to walk with your nose in the clouds to watch out for pieces of falling masonry does not bother you excessively, an incursion into the city's most densely populated neighbourhood is an experience you cannot miss.



Centro Habana is the epitome of all things Cuban, gaudy crowds, women shouting from dilapidated balcony to dilapidated balcony, street vendors selling dubious foodstuff, shirtless men lovingly polishing their 1950's American cars, priced for sale . There are elderly men playing dominoes on street corners until early morning, downing shot after shot of aguardiente or "chispa", the cheapest and most poisonous of the cheap rums. There is wild dancing during carnivals and national celebrations of the "Triumph of the Revolution", as Cubans mechanically refer to Castro's 1959 power takeover, and moonlit walks along the Malecón seawall. Here lights can suddenly go out as they may at a murder mystery dinner, leaving locals and foreigners alike to wander about boisterously in the dark, guided only by the omnipresent glow of the hilltop lighthouse.
Centro Habana is also the backdrop for cult author Pedro Juan Gutierrez' "Dirty Havana Trilogy", a collection of short stories that take place at the heart of the crumbling city, where poverty is rife and hunger fuels all sort of illicit activities, from lobster smuggling to unwitting consumption of human livers. If destitution is rarely an appealing sight, few would deny that there is something incredibly fascinating about the ruinous state of Havana, its immense beauty still visible behind peeling paint and gaping cracks in the walls.



On your way back to Habana Vieja take a stroll down boulevard San Rafael to the Palacio de Bellas Artes, featuring treasured paintings, sculptures, engravings and drawings from the colonial period to date. International art is kept a short walk away in the former Asturian Center, a stunning example of eclectic architecture with interiors as outstanding as the collection it houses, which includes, among the works of others, paintings by Rubens and Goya.




To relax after an intense day of sightseeing choose the famous Floridita, conveniently located just across the road. The bar was one of Ernest Hemingway's favourite haunts, and, while living at the Hotel Ambos Mundos on calle Obispo, he would nip in for a daiquiri and a chat with the patrons on most nights.

If you are an admirer of the great American writer you might also enjoy a visit to his former room, now a mini-museum, where between 1932 and 1937 he wrote his masterpiece on the Spanish civil war, "For Whom The Bell Tolls".

On the subject of drinks, Havana has some of the best the Caribbean has to offer. From Daiquiris to Mojitos through Cuba Libres and Cubanitos, the city is swarming with ambience bars serving delicious cocktails and shots of Havana Club until the early morning hours.



If you are based in the old town you can kick off the evening at the Café de Paris on Calle Obispo or the bar Monserrate on Avenida de Bélgica, a 1920s style tavern offering tasty snacks and excellent live music, before haggling your fare to the Vedado district with one of the hundreds of bici-taxis cruising the streets day and night. More modern than Habana Vieja and Centro Habana, Vedado is a former upper class residential quarter on a grid of wide boulevards lined with art-deco houses and royal palms. It is also home to the ultra-famous metalwork image of Che Guevara in Plaza de la Revolución, an obligatory stop on your historical tour of socialist Havana.

When visiting the neighbourhood at night you will certainly want to try out one of the local clubs. Most of them, the Sherazade, the Pico Blanco, La Red, la Casa del Humor, offer cabaret (exhilarating if you have a good command of Spanish) and trendy DJ music with the occasional salsa band opening the evening.

For live Cuban rhythms the best place to head for is La Casa della Música. There are two of them in Havana, one on Avenida Galiano in Centro Habana and one in the neighbourhood of Miramar; on weekends they both feature prominent bands such as La Charanga Habanera and the world famous Los Van Van.



It's Dawn Already:

However exhausting your night of dancing, idling all morning in bed would be an unforgivable mistake. You cannot leave Havana before visiting the Capitolio, a stunning reproduction of the Washington dome and house to the Cuban Academy of Sciences, and the Partagas tobacco factory for an insight into the country's most prestigious export. If you'd rather bask in the tropical sun, treat yourself instead to a convertible Cadillac ride through the plush neo-colonial neighbourhood of Miramar, or simply unwind on a beautiful beach at Santa Maria del Mar only 15 kilometres from the city centre.

Now more than ever is the time to visit Havana, which is experiencing a glorious social and architectural renaissance without loosing its peculiar stuck-in-a-time-warp atmosphere. Thanks to UNESCO and a combination of fortuitous historical circumstances the Cuban capital has become the only place in the world where philosophically incompatible eras co-exist harmoniously, where the past spills over into the present with delightful effortlessness. Thanks to its unique character and a chameleon-like ability to cater for everyone's tastes Havana will not disappoint even the most demanding of travelers.


Practical Suggestions:

Restaurants: El Asturianito and Los Nardos on Prado, Habana Vieja. There is usually a queue but the wait is well worth it. If you get the munchies in the middle of the night head instead for the barrio Chino. Tasty choices are Los Tres Chinitos on calle Dragones and Tien Tian on calle Cuchillo.

Accommodations: Los Frailes and the Santa Isabel in Habana Vieja and the Hotel Nacional in Vedado get top marks for atmosphere and comfort. Alternatively, if you wish to cut costs and experience life with a Cuban family, you can opt for a casa particular. An excellent one for location, cleanliness and friendliness is run by señora Candida Cobas at San Rafael 403, midway between Habana Vieja and Vedado.

Dance Classes: If, in spite of your best efforts on the dance floor, you keep stepping on your partner’s feet, get professional help by Marisuri and her salsa instructors. You can find them at Consulado 19 in Centro Habana.




Photo Credits: Barbara Torresi, Luke Tsang


© 2006 ROMAR TRAVEL GUIDES