|
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
||||
 Central American and the Carribean |
Guatemala ...one of Central America's most interesting destinations and a direct link with the past... |
|
Guatemala is inheritor of some of that ancient world's most spectacular treasures... it is also moving vigorously into the 21st century...
|
 |
 Historically and geographically, Guatemala, a small country the size of Tennessee, is located at the core of Mundo Maya or Mesoamerica. Domain of the remarkable Maya civilization, Mundo Maya extends from southern Mexico and the Yucatan to western Honduras and El Salvador, and is bordered by the Gulf of Mexico to the north and the Pacific Ocean to the south, forming the American continents' waistline. |
|
|
|
 In the year 682, A.D., during the rule of Ah Cacau, priest/king of the vast ceremonial city of Tikal, this was a world of city-states competing with each other for influence, commerce, and often in conflict. Modern Guatemala is inheritor of some of that ancient world's most spectacular treasures, both in terms of cultural as well as ecological wealth. Paradoxically, it is also one of the fastest growing economies in Central America, moving vigorously into the 21st century under a quasi-democratic government, while struggling, with notable determination and some success, to overcome a dark reputation for human rights abuses acquired over the past fifty years. |
|
Guatemala City is a busy, rapidly growing capital in the Central American mode. The city itself does not have a great deal of interest to offer tourism though it does serve as an ideal home base for exploration of many of the country's most interesting tourist destinations, many just a day-trip away. Some of the more popular and worthwhile of these are: Chichicastenango, Lake Atitlan and colonial Antigua. Tikal is an absolute must for anyone visiting this country, but it requires at least an overnight stay, though some tour groups mistakenly attempt to do it in one day. Chichicastenango |
|
"Chichi's" main plaza comes alive as one of Central America's most famous and unusual native American marketplaces.
|
|
 Every Thursday and Sunday, Chichicastenango's main plaza comes alive as one of Central America's most famous and unusual native American marketplaces. The area is inhabited primarily by Quiche Maya who have been doing business in "Chichi" for 700 years. On market days, the streets of the town are converted into a veritable gauntlet of stalls selling leather goods, native masks, textiles, pottery, skeins of brightly colored wool, jewelry, firewood, plastic dishes, live chickens, and authentic and not so authentic colonial and pre-Columbian artifacts. A focal point of all the activity is the Church of Santo Tomas, built by Spaniards on the ruins of a Maya temple and still catering primarily to Quiche Mayas. Inside, statues of Christian saints compete with islands of blazing votive candles, each platform supervised by a curandero or shaman supervising the supplications of his particular village. This great stew of commerce and religion, Europe and native America is intoxicating and not to be missed.  An overnight stay in "Chichi" is worth considering, and the Maya Inn, located near the marketplace, offers 30 well-appointed rooms and public spaces. Founded in 1932 by expatriate, Alfred Clark, the inn is interestingly decorated and furnished with Spanish colonial antiques, each room "its own museum." |
|
Lake Atitlan is said by many expatriate residents and natives to be the most beautiful lake in the world. |
|
Lake Atitlan Not far from Chichicastenango and also a day trip from Guatemala City is Lake Atitlan, said by many expatriate residents and natives to be the most beautiful lake in the world. On a bright and still day, the lake's surface becomes a mirror reflecting the three volcanoes and high cliffs that hold its waters like giant cupped hands. The three perfectly cone-shaped volcanoes are Atitlan, Toliman and San Pedro; they are a constant reminder of the geologic origins of the lake formed eons ago by natural damming of a high mountain valley by volcanic ash. Long a favorite vacation destination for many affluent Guatemalans, Atitlan also has a significant community of retired and expatriate North Americans--so many, in fact, that Panajachel, one of the eleven towns surrounding the lake has been nicknamed Gringotenango, tenango signifying "the place of" in the Quiche language. Panajachel is also where most of the lake's hotels and restaurants can be found as well as many shops and a daily market, though better bargains for native crafts can be found in some of the less frequented towns around the lake. Excursion boats can be hired at Panajachel dockside and will take visitors across the water to Santiago Atitlan, perhaps the most accessible of the lake's villages, famous for its Friday market. The lake itself is wonderful for all sorts of water sports, including swimming, canoeing, water skiing, sailing, and the high cliffs have seen many a hang-gliding competition. For those wishing to spend an over-night at the lake, the up-scale Hotel Atitlan on Panajachel's outskirts is of interest. It was once a private hacienda and coffee "finca" with a pedigree that goes back to 1524. Now an elegant inn, it offers 45 comfortable and well-appointed rooms and all amenities, along with a private beach and notably landscaped gardens. A double room costs about $102 (2002 rates.) |
|
Antigua, represents the best of Spanish Guatemala and once was the most important seat of colonial government between Mexico City and Lima in Peru.  |
|
Antigua  In interesting contrast to the essentially Indian western highlands where Chichicastenango and Atitlan are located, is the colonial city of Antigua, representing the best of Spanish Guatemala and once the most important seat of colonial government between Mexico City and Lima in Peru. Founded in 1527, the city was almost completely destroyed 14 years later by a violent volcanic eruption of Agua volcano, leaving only the facade of its cathedral standing. It is still there. Antigua, rebuilt on a safer site nearby, was partially destroyed again and the capital moved to Guatemala City, but this time the destruction was not complete and the city preserves its legacy: marvelous examples of baroque colonial architecture, now converted into residences, museums, restaurants, elegant inns, boutiques, or just left as monuments to the past. Today, the city is home to a community of close to 30,000 affluent Guatemalans (some of whom commute to Guatemala City), foreign expatriates, artists, craftsmen and language students. During Easter and Christmas celebrations, the population more than doubles; hotel reservations for those holidays must be made up to a year in advance. Shopping is fun in Antigua, though prices are geared to tourism, tending more toward the "boutique" category. Several shops, however, are non-profit outlets for local artisans.  An overnight visitor to Antigua could hardly do better than a stay at Casa Santo Domingo, a lovingly and tastefully restored Dominican monastery, now a truly elegant inn. For centuries after its founding in 1642, it was the riches monastery in the city. Now it offers 77 rooms with all amenities and everywhere, from its church altar reception desk to its dining nooks, tucked into barrel vaulted former chapels, it is a direct link with the past. Because of its uniqueness, reservations are at a premium--most especially at Easter time when Antigua's famous Holy Week celebrations bring enormous crowds of visitors. |
|
For those looking for textiles and fine Guatemalan weaving, the nearby village of San Antonio Aguas Calientes has to be a sort of Mecca. |
|
San Antonio Aguas Calientes Not far from Antigua is yet another place of special interest. For those looking for textiles and fine Guatemalan weaving, the nearby village of San Antonio Aguas Calientes has to be a sort of Mecca. In the village is the home Carolina Perez de Guaran, a Quiche Maya internationally recognized as one of the world's greatest weavers and who has shown her art in Berlin, New York, Milan and Scandinavia. She is a living national treasure. With her three daughters, Graciela, Astrid and Dali, she tries to keep the weaver's tradition alive through her school to train local girls in the weaving techniques of their ancestors--against the odds of better paying occupations that draw the youngsters away. |
|
This megalopolis, once the Rome of ancient Mesoamerica, is a site not to be missed.   |
|
Tikal  Ideally, the last--and best--experience for a visitor to this interesting country should be an overnight visit to Tikal. This megalopolis, once the Rome of ancient Mesoamerica, now again rising to its former magnificence as archeologists excavate its monuments from the tentacles of Peten's rainforest, is not to be missed. Since the 1960s, nearly six square miles of central Tikal have been excavated, uncovering over 100,000 ceremonial objects, artifacts, statuary, major temples and palaces, and ceremonial ball courts. Possibly the best known and most photographed area of Tikal is the Great Plaza, defined by the Temple of the Giant Jaguar, towering 145 feet above the plaza on one side and Temple of the Masks directly opposite. These magnificent structures are two of the finest examples of Maya temple architecture anywhere. Sculpted stelae commemorating achievements and conquests of various rulers have been placed around the plaza and, though eroded badly, give some idea of the complexity of that ancient civilization, richness of costume and striking appearance of Maya aristocracy. Other areas of special interest are ball courts where ritual ball games were played, the field positions of players representing all stages of life. When noble captives were the players, losers were beheaded and, thereby gained great honor and eternal life in the afterworld. A trail northwest of the ball courts leads to the Lost World Complex, believed to have included apartments for the aristocracy, surprisingly modest and small rooms since they were mainly used for sleeping and storage. These privileged folk were waited on by the underclasses to the extent of having meals prepared in the peasant's quarters where, presumably, cooking smoke could be kept away from aristocratic noses. Whether the visitor is a would-be Indiana Jones, a classical historian or a receptive tourist, a once-in-a-lifetime experience any overnight visitor can have is to see sunrise over Tikal and the Peten wilderness from the very top of Temple IV, at 212 feet from its base, the tallest man-made structure in the Americas until modern times. This requires a four AM start from the Hotel, a half-hour ride in a hotel van with other "pilgrims", a guided, torch-lit hustle down dark jungle trail to beat the dawn, a strenuous climb up Temple IV's partially excavated base, and finally a scramble up a metal ladder attached to the ancient rock walls of the temple's cap on to a broad ledge. Sitting there in absolute silence is an awesome experience, looking down on the rainforest canopy with only the tips of the Temples of Giant Jaguar and Masks reaching up out of the tree tops. As the sun rises over Peten, a vast ocean of green becomes visible below, with puddles of fog settling in hollows like ocean foam on an infinite beach. When bands of howler monkeys begin to bark at each other, welcoming the sun and reaffirming their existence, it is possible to understand the religious awe ancient Maya priests must have felt at similar moments.  What is more, it is now possible to stay very near Tikal overnight not only in comfort, but in luxury. The Hotel Camino Real Westin/-Tikal is a noteworthy rainforest inn located on the shores of Lake Peten-Itza, about a half hour ride from the ruins and the Grand Plaza of Tikal. This hotel fully deserves its five-star rating, unusual for a rainforest lodge. 72 rooms are located in picturesque, thatched-roof bungalows, each with a private balcony that overlooks Lake Peten. Every amenity is offered and even the shower water is purified. Special programs are offered for children. Rates to the end of 2001 were about $110 for a double room. The easiest and safest way to get to Tikal is by air from Guatemala City. The flight is about 50 minutes and lands in Flores, a colonial island city in Lake Peten-Itza. From there, it is a short drive in a hotel van to the Camino Real Westin/Tikal. |
 |
A final word about travel to Guatemala: As has been the case for thousands of years, since before the time of Ah Cacau, there is still political unrest in this country. In the past, some of it has touched tourism. Weigh this against the facts: there has been no greater impact on tourists in Guatemala than encountered by a few in Miami or New York or Los Angeles. INGUAT, Guatemala's Tourism Institute, reports that the United States has consistently sent the largest number of tourists (196,000 in 1994). A high official of the U. S. Embassy stated publicly that group travel to the principal tourism destinations is recommended over solitary expeditions to remote places. In any case, it is prudent to check with the U.S. State Department's consular warning service before going: The latest security information is available from the U.S. Embassy in Guatemala City, including its website (The U.S. Embassy). Internet web site - http://usembassy.state.gov/guatemala/. |
| Some useful links: INGUAT (Guatemalan Tourist Commission) = 888-464-8281 U. S. Embassy (Guatemala City) = http://usembassy.state.gov/guatemala/ Photo Credits: Rod Lopez-Fabrega; Antigua Carnival: (l.tor.) Artemis / Jay Kay / Jay Kay; Mayan Warrior: Jaime Freire |
|
|
|
© 2002 ROMAR TRAVEL GUIDES
|
|
|
|