If you are a recluse you might feel at home in Zanskar, a portion of the Indian districts of Jammu and Kashmir that lies within India's northernmost state of Ladakh. Protected by Nun and Kun peaks and surrounded by the forked Zanskar river, it is cut off from the rest of India by a series of high ridges on the east, west and north and is reached only by a week long trek or a 14-hour drive along a rock strewn and potholed road. Zanskar lies within Kashmir, the territory disputed by India and Pakistan.
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 Even though Zanskar is under the Jammu and Kashmir territory and a part of India where --contrary to the predominant religion--the people have managed to keep Buddhism very integral to their way of life. Zanskar remains one of the last untampered Tibetan cultures that remain in the world--quite unlike the case in neighboring Chinese Tibet itself.
The inhabitants lead a rural life that is quite different from the urban experience. Considering the fact that the farmers of the valley spent their entire summers storing fuel and food in preparation for their grueling winters, life is certainly no bed of roses for them. It is tough to say the least, and visiting their land is a humbling--and gratifying--experience for the urban visitor seeking to refresh basic values. |
| Zanskar remains inaccessible from November until May. Even when the summers arrive, the unpredictable weather continues to surprise. The mornings are warm but as the day sets it starts getting chilly. During winters the snow wraps Zanskar in its sheath, and seeing human species becomes a rarity. Albeit the hardships and snow that blankets the land, Zanskar remains one of the most beautiful destinations one can visit in one lifetime. |
As the summers approach, the snow begins to melt and give way to strenuous and challenging trek routes. Zanskar's infamously difficult trekking routes and river rafting routes have caught the fancy of many. The adrenaline rushes adventurers seek, that coupled with jaw dropping views that nature blesses it onlookers with is what Zanskar has on offer. Indeed a very tempting one!
Mind well, if you are looking for quietness and peace, Zanskar will not disappoint you. And if you are looking for exhilaration, Zanskar will only leave you breathless. Such contrasting aspects of this place are what gets people hooked onto it. |
| Coming to Zanskar and not visiting Padum or Zangla is like going to Italy and not seeing Tower of Pisa. Padum is the capital of Zanskar and also home to its governing headquarters. In recent years Padum has become famous as a major trekking base and a popular tourist destination. The city boasts of a fort and palace which date back to the 8th century. Age-old carvings adorn the palace, but in the present time these two are nothing more than ruins. Padum has several monasteries that can be found within a few kilometers of the city. |
Zangla on the other hand lies on the northern side of the Zanskar Valley. Zangla Village is the starting point for Padum-Lamayuru and Padum-Hemis treks. It is approximately 35 km from Padum and was ruled by a king until he passed away in recent years. One of its noted attractions is a suspension bridge very near to the king's castle. The old rope suspension bridge--a unique example of folk engineering--is no longer in use but once was used to cross the turbulent Zanskar River.
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Owing to its close association with Ladakh, many monasteries have been built in and around Zanskar. Karsha the largest and the richest of all the monasteries in Zanskar has a lot of art preserved in its century-old monuments. Half-decade-old frescoes are still in a good state for visitors to admire. There is Burdan, on the way to Manali which has idols and stupas made of clay, wood, copper and bronze on display. Phutgal is one of kind monastery which sits in a mountain cave and protects several shrines. Then there is Stongdey situated some 20 km further away from Padum where Gon Khang, or the room of guardian deities, is a place of worship in the monastery, housing many demonic figures and temple guardian deities. Zongkhul is yet another in the series of monasteries which is on the Padum-Kishtwar route. A great scholar Naropa is believed to be its founder.
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| For the adventure thirsty, Zanskar is a treasure trove of activities. For trekkers, there is the evergreen Zanskar Valley that runs through multiple passes. For people who love extreme adventures, the Chadar trek (i.e when the river freezes and resembles a snow blanket) is an all time hit. There are many more challenging trek routes passing through Padum or Lahaul Spiti. The most indulging activity here is whitewater rafting. Coined as the great canyon by explorers, rafting on the Zanskar River is indeed an experience of a lifetime. The rapids are exhilarating and seasoned rafters from the world over come here to ride on the waves of this river. |
| If you are a trekker on your way to Zanskar you might as well consider filling yourself up with all the provisions. There are hardly any petrol stations so its advisable to get extra cans and fill them with all the fuel that you might require. |
| As much beauty and splendor one can find in this place, there will come a day when all of it will be lost. Why? It's because pretty soon there will be a road built, running along the Zanskar valley connecting Padum to Nimmu on the Leh-Kargil road. After it opens, Zanskar won't be the same again. But the locals seem to be delighted in knowing that the reins of management will be in the hands of Buddhist Ladakh now as opposed to Muslim influences that predominate in Kargil. |
Getting there:
If you have painted a vivid picture through your imaginations of Zanskar and want to visit here's some information regarding how. Zanskar is connected by road, air and rail. The nearest rail head is Jammu from where one can take a bus to Zanskar via Kargil. If you prefer the road, the Padum route remains open from July to November. You can also consider the state transport buses as an alternative. Of course, one should start planning the trip to Zanskar in the hot months so that by the time it's June or July you can pack your bags and set out for your mega trip here. |
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Sayantini Ghosh is a travel writer with Thrillophilia, an adventure touring company that mainly deals with adventure activities on a pan-India level. For more details you can visit the site at: www.thrillophilia.com |
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PHOTO CREDITS: Sayantini Ghosh; Willem Proos
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