South Korea - Spring


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Paper lanterns hang from every street corner, spicy rice cake stalls return to the back streets and the hiking trails once again bustle with life. The warm nights and bright sunny days that follow South Korea's biting winters make spring a great time to visit. With the spectacular Cherry Blossom festivals and Buddha's Birthday celebrations filling the calendar, there's plenty to get excited about.

As the last of the winter snow melts, it's swept away by a blanket of cherry blossoms. Thousands of pink flowers welcome the warmth of spring, filling the parks and hillsides as they spread through the country from south to north. The most spectacular displays arrive in the mountainous far south in late May, drawing crowds of couples looking for a romantic spot to picnic as the petals flutter around them. It's a localized Valentines Day, washing away the winter blues and focusing the country on romance for a couple of all too brief weekends.

(Photo Credit: Peter Carney)

The cherry blossoms and colorful foliage also make spring the best time to visit the De-Militarized zone that separates the two Koreas. An area that is the country’s biggest single tourist attraction has become the most unlikely of wildlife sanctuaries. The military standoff that splits this country into two wildly divergent halves makes the forests that surround the border between them inaccessible to humans and an extremely safe place for animals to live in peace.

The seldom-used but heavily guarded negotiation station located there to control traffic between the south and the north provides tourists on the south side of the line the unforgettable opportunity to be face to face with North Korean guards. The guards stand sternly across the DMZ's only courtyard, stony-still in their dark glasses and immaculately pressed uniforms.

It is possible to cross the border deep underground for a short distance by climbing down into the murky depths to inspect North Korea's invasion tunnels. Four of these spooky tubes, surreptitiously excavated by North Korea, were discovered and sealed by the south before a surprise attack could be launched.

Another stop for visitors is at the end of the DMZ's forbidden bridge--the last unopened link in the optimistically named 'unification highway' that was supposed to link Seoul in the south with Pyongyan in the north. From this vantage point, visitors are able to stare into no mans land and to ponder the conundrum symbolized by the two opposing national flags flying high over it all. This tense stand off of over fifty years is as scenically beautiful as it is emotionally chilling.

Away from the border areas, hiking and golf are the main spring pastime for the locals. Koreans are hiking addicts, and the craggy mountainsides are often so steep you'll need a good pair of gloves, sturdy shoes and nerves of steal to scramble your way to the top. Making it past the near vertical slopes, narrow ledges and trickling mountain streams can take all day. On arrival at the summit, you'll find both toddlers and pensioners, all of whom seem to have made the journey with substantially more ease than you. Around Seoul, the impressive hiking turns into something of a procession, especially on weekends when the crowds are huge, and the experience may not be the escape to nature you might have hoped for.

For trekkers, the accessible Eastern province of Gangwon Do is the best destination; and the province also has plenty of other perks to offer. As the months go by, spring turns the steep mountain terrain from a low level ski resort into an extreme sports Mecca.

The riverside town of Gangchon, which has a year round party feel to it, offers rafting, hiking, quad biking and some very affordable Bungee jumps. There are hikes along cliff edges, waterfalls to swim in and even a local cuisine offering, among other delicacies, Tak Galbi, a spicy mix of chicken and vegetables that's served with shots of plum liquor and grilled in front of you by an enthusiastic personal chef.

Back in Seoul, May brings Buddha's Birthday, when millions take to the streets under skies filled with colorful paper lanterns. Celebrants parade through the city, there are brightly lit floats, and many in the crowds proudly wear their national dress. At this time of year Seoul's temples are astoundingly photogenic, providing quiet escapes right in the city center from holiday throngs and the normal hustle and bustle of a businesslike metropolis.

South Korea's ancient temples can be as much as a thousand years old, and many are traditional hillside retreats and secluded sanctuaries that are as delicately stunning as they are inaccessible. Surprisingly, however, the best place for an authentic Korean Buddhism experience is right in the center of the capital. The Bongeunsa temple is only a stone's throw from one of Asia's biggest shopping centers, but inside the temple grounds the traffic sounds fade away behind the hum of the chirping cicadas, and the skyscrapers are cleverly blocked from view.

Temple stays are open to anyone, and a two-day, overnight visit will throw you into the lifestyle of a Korean Zen Buddhist monk. Two of the Korean Buddhist Orders--Jogye and Cheontae--offer temple stays for foreign visitors. A 4am wake up call is followed by hours of silent meditation and philosophical conversations over tiny cups of green tea. You can even participate in traditional art and crafts under the intricate open-air pagodas. You don't have to be a Buddhist to feel touched by this experience, which offers a contemplative and life affirming retreat from everyday life, regardless of religious persuasion.

All in all, springtime Korea offers a host of sensually overwhelming experiences. It's all here, from the thrill of throwing yourself through the air on the end of a Bungee cord, to the soulful inner-exploration of a Buddhist temple stay, to the battlefield intensity of Korea's ever volatile frontline. Intrigue, along with a fascination with the unknown, brings tourists to springtime Korea. The overwhelming imagery of the ancient festivals and delicate natural beauty is what keeps them coming back.

PHOTO CREDITS: James Hendicott, Peter Carney (as noted)
FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE AUTHOR
www.jameshendicott.blogspot.com, james hendicott@yahoo.com