 It was September, the monsoon month. Drizzles throughout the day were followed by heavy rainfalls and a cold chill during the night. Unusually heavy monsoon weather this year triggered off ideas about a return to the mountains and away from the deluge. Each one of my three hiking companions voted for another trekking trip, and we settled on the Markha Valley in the Hemis National Park, south of the Indus Valley, between the Stok Range and Zanskar in India's Kashmir.
We had trekked the Zanskar Valley on a previous trip and were eager to explore more of this spectacularly beautiful area. With a bit of planning, lots of trek shopping and backpacking we were on our way to Ladakh. |
| Leh, the capital town of Ladakh is a dreamy little place, which must be an annoyance for locals the moment tourists descend on it. The rugged life style of those who live under the Himalayan range is not 'dreamy' but is a constant reminder to sensitive visitors that at the root level, man can survive even with the most basic amenities. Shame on us who fuss over what outfit to choose or which restaurant to visit. |
We had to spend a day at Leh acclimatizing to the 3,500 meter (11,483 foot) altitude in preparation to start out journey. This included a visit to Leh Palace and chats with the curious monks.
On day one, we drove to Spituk, the point where the horses would carry all our equipments. We had stocked ourselves with plenty of water. Someone wise had advised us to carry sunscreen, and we were glad we did as, despite the cold, the sun did make its strong presence felt.
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| As we drove past a scorched road and plodded our way through barren deserted lands, we were surprised to come on the verdant lushness of Zingchen Valley. A river flowed noisily, making the entire valley come alive with its sounds. The chirping of birds and herbal smells of the flora there was almost therapeutic. The contrast was outstanding. Our trek had begun on a very green note. Our first stop was in a little house in the hamlet of Zingchen. |
| Day two saw us trekking from Zingchen to our next destination, Ganda La base. On the way we stopped at Hemis National Park, the home for world renowned Snow Leopard. We had been told that it would be extremely unusual to sight one of these rare and secretive felines, and, as predicted, we did not see the handsome creature. Never mind, the park was awesome, and we did spot a few animals in groups, heard owls hooting in a distance and were able to look down on the famous Tibetan sheep drinking from a small water puddle somewhere in the middle of the forest. |
| We climbed through to the village of Rumbak, slogging through some of the most spectacular gorges I have seen in my life. As we entered the Rumbak village we spotted a tea house run by a shy Tibetan woman. Tired from our day's trek, we gulped down sandwiches and hot, crispy, deep-fried vegetable samosas. My most enjoyable moments were sipping tea in the teahouse while catching glimpses of cloud-capped mountains and brilliant Himalayan sun through the windows. Our destination was still far away. |
| With an effort we all made our way to the base of Ganda La. Standing tall at 4,545 meters, the views from here left us breathless. From here we could see Stok Kangri and Golep Kangri peaks, climbable only by using ice axe and crampons. We were told that from both of those distant summits, one has a great view over the Indus Valley, Zanskar and to the near Chinese and Pakistan mountains. Phew! The excitement has set in. It was time to rock! |
Our campsite consisted of a small circle of tents and a campfire. That night had us all struggling to get some rest. Admittedly, the sleeping bags on cold, rocky ground were very uncomfortable but, due to the strenuous trek and exhaustion, sleep did come.
Next day after an early breakfast, we savoured the morning sun and the snow covered peaks as we set out for a two-hour-long trek to Ganda La at 4,900 meters above sea level.
From this totally deserted, wind-swept high place we experienced wonder at the panorama of the entire Zanskar range of the Himalayas spread out before us and felt like grizzled mountaineers of long ago. We left for our next stop, a very smooth, inconspicuous descent towards Shingo. mountain pass, a long-distance footpath used often by locals and trekkers alike.
Lunch beckoned, later followed by a two-hour hike to our next camp base at Skiu, a village with a popular campground, some supplies and ruins of a century old castle at its outskirts. That halt ended our third day of trek. |
The following day our trek followed the Markha River, climbing along a beautiful winding path. We saw a number of Lhatos (religious shrines) and Mani walls which were stones with Buddist learning inscribed into them. We were very happy to see inviting teahouses located at every few meters. The smiles of the owners were welcoming. After hot cup of tea we entered the Markha Valley.
We were impressed with the way the little houses were tucked away gathering together to form this village. We were in the largest village in the valley, an ancient hamlet that radiated beauty and splendor from its every corner. A monastery at one corner presided over the village like a wise old lady. A ruined fort with broken walls appeared like a ghostly house in the distance. All in all, everything was a perfect mix of timeless culture set in the overpowering grandeur of the Himalayas. We were thrilled, awed and having the times of our lives |
The next day we trekked through the fort and the revered monastery of Techa. Our next stop, Umlung was our window to mind blowing views of Mt Kang Yatse. The sights accompanied us until we were past Kongmaru La. We stopped at Hangkar village, hogged at food and left for our last destination of the day - Thachungste. We were nearing the end of our journey and so far it had been busy and full of excitement.
Nimaling was the highest campsite of the trip. Summers had people from the villages come here to graze their herds. Monsoons had the entire place in hues of whites, greens and browns. The sounds of the winds, the chill and distant lights signalled civilization.
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| Next day we crossed the Kongmaru la, spotted the great Indus Valley and Ladakh Range. Going down was toughest as the steep descent turned out to be a tricky affair. We somehow managed to get down until the road levelled off. Shang Gorge was the next spot on our way. Amazing rock formations, cascading landscapes left me speechless. We clicked pictures, stood their taking in the surroundings and moved to Shang Sumdo a village for an overnight stay. |
| The last day was here and we were already reminiscing about the week gone by. Our last stop was Martselang from where we would be picked up and driven to Leh. Those two hours all four of us spent chatting and debating about our experiences. I managed to grab a few personal moments where I had a moment of insight and realization. Journeys do change perceptions of how you one looks at life. This one definitely changed mine. |
How to get there:
For any international traveler traveling from destinations all across the globe, the best way to get to Markha Valley would be through New Delhi, India. Most international flights operate via New Delhi and from there; daily flights to Leh are run by Indian Airlines, Jet Airways and Kingfisher Red.
The overland approach to Ladakh from Kashmir Valley via Kargil is approx. 434 Km. The most economical way to travel within the region is by public buses, which ply on fixed routes according to fixed time schedules.
The most comfortable and convenient though expensive mode of travel, however, is by taxi, available for hire on a fixed point-to-point tariff.
The weather conditions in Ladakh are fluctuate dramatically, and proper care should be taken to select the propers season and to bring the appropriate clothing in order to ensure a safe visit.
| Consulting your country's consular recommendations is always a prudent move before traveling to disputed areas. As this is written in 2010, Kashmir is experiencing political unrest. |
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PHOTO CREDITS: Sayantini Ghosh |
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Asia