R
Asian Continent




Kerala: Southern India's Eden

India's southernmost state of Kerala is known as "god's own country" to its inhabitants. It's difficult to disagree with that description.

By Rod Lopez-Fabrega



Kerala is known as "god's country." The god in question might well be Krishna, the mischievous flute-player...

 Kerala, India's southwestern state is a ribbon of land on the southern tip of the Indian subcontinent sandwiched between the Arabian Sea on one side and the Western Ghats high country at its eastern boundaries. To its inhabitants, it is known as "god's own country." Considering all the gods in the Hindu pantheon, who can argue with this assessment? The god in question might well be Krishna, that mischievous, much loved flute-player, frolicker in sylvan glades and the object of every young maiden's prayers. In some ways, he typifies the character of Kerala, a land of splendid beaches, emerald backwaters, outstanding up-scale resorts, handsome hill stations, wildlife retreats, and many centers of sensuous and healthful Ayurvedic restorative and therapeutic treatments utilizing Nature's herbs and oils to massage away the stresses of modern life.


Too good to be true? Not at all. The word is out, and Kerala has been discovered as the next destination du jour by the beautiful people, but Kerala's authorities are making every effort to ensure tourism growth is done in an ecologically sustainable manner with all efforts directed toward restraint in order to avoid the models set by other ruined paradises. What is more, it is a real place with an enlightened attitude. As National Geographic Traveler's Bill McKibben has pointed out, "in a state not much larger than Maryland, with a population as large as that of California and a per capita income of less than $300, Kerala, nevertheless, has a notably low infant mortality rate, a literacy rate among the highest in the world and a dropping birthrate currently below that of the U.S. It is a model of social development and a standout in a country with a huge and burgeoning population."



Cochin (Kochi):

Kerala's recorded history goes back to the third century B.C., and throughout the time since this special place in India has been a crossroad of trade and religious movements. Jesus Christ's disciple St. Thomas established his church at Muziris around 52 A.D., there was trade with Rome and Byzantium and Greece, and a Jewish colony was established in Cochin (Kochi) where it remains to this day centered around the beautifully preserved and still active Pardesi synagogue. Another landmark in this busy city is St. Francis's of Cochin, the oldest European church in India and for a time the burial place of famed Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama. Cochin also is the major airline hub in Kerala and the most likely arrival point for overseas visitors coming from Delhi or Bombay (Mumbai.)

Trivandrum (Thiruvananthapuram):

The second most important city in Kerala and its capital is Trivandrum (Thiruvananthapuram) to the south, a bustling working city with street markets; crowded, traffic-choked boulevards and alleyways; the towering Sri Ananthapadmanbhaswamy temple dedicated to the god Vishnu, its glittering white tower literally buried under thousands of life-size statues depicting scenes from Hindu mythology; the splendid Sri Chitra Art Gallery of Asian and Mughal paintings; a stunning collection of Indian bronzes; a handsome botanical garden and zoo; and much more of interest to tourism. Between the two cities is a string of elegant beach and backwater resorts designed for total escape. Here is just a sampling of what is available.




The Beaches:

Most of India's best beaches are in Kerala. A good part of its entire 375-mile coastline is made up of sandy, tranquil beaches framed on one side by the Arabian sea and on the other by forests of palm trees. One particularly scenic stretch along what is known as the Malabar Coast--just one hour from Cochin--is Marari Beach, named after Mararikulam, a fishing village where life goes on as it has for centuries and the fishermen still go out daily to make their living by harvesting the seas' bounty.



The Marari Beach Resort is an idyllic beachfront retreat of palm-thatched, air-conditioned villas (each with an al fresco bathroom in a landscaped private courtyard) set among 25 acres of coconut palm groves and providing all the luxurious amenities anyone could wish for, including a noted Ayurvedic Center under the guidance of an expert vaidyan physician and his team of men and women masseurs and therapists. Ayurveda is promoted as "The Science of Life," and is as old as Indian civilization. One treatment, for example, is Dhara, a mental relaxant consisting of herbal oils and medicated buttermilk poured on the forehead and as a massage lotion applied to the entire body. It is said to be good for insomnia and mental tension. An herbal chest is displayed for guests to inspect the hundreds of natural condiments used in the many treatments offered to them. The best times to visit are October through March, after the summer monsoon season is over. At least six other spectacular beach areas along this coastline all offer excellent accommodations.




The Backwaters:

Throughout the coastal areas of Kerala are endless stretches of lakes, lagoons and ponds connected by a network of canals. A huge expanse of estuaries formed by 41 west-flowing rivers, the backwaters stretch to over 1,000 miles. The backwater routes date back over the centuries and have been long used for all transportation needs, in particular trade in coconut, rubber, rice and spices. Today, these waterways link remote villages and islands to the mainland and nerve centers of the coastal area. They also form an ideal highway for the thatched roof houseboats of Kerala, a colorful and unique navy of floating hotel suites, suitable for cruising the backwaters in sybaritic decadence.




Also located in the backwaters are some truly exceptional resorts, among them the Poovar Island Resort, reachable only by motor launch from the nearby mainland. This resort is separated from the beaches of the area by a barrier island but within easy access of these sandy expanses for those who wish to beach comb. Of immediate interest when disembarking on the shores of the resort are its unique villas, floating individual mini-apartments docked along the shoreline. Built on hollow lightweight concrete hulls, the cottages replicate traditional Kerala architecture with Teakwood paneling and thatched grass roofs, air-conditioned, with all the amenities and with fantastic views from private balconies facing the estuary. The resort also provides 22 land-based cottages built on stilts on a moat. The resort can boast of a chef who works miracles with Keralan and international cuisine.




Another noteworthy resort is Aquaserene, a unit of Tulip Star Hotels, also reachable only by boat. The resort is located on a spectacular peninsula jutting out into the backwater lakes and offering 28 air-conditioned, traditionally constructed cottages with five-star amenities. The unusual swimming pool floats in the middle of a natural pond, and the resort offers aquatic sports and cruising in surrounding waters as well as excellent fishing and ample beachcombing as well as its Ojas Ayurvedic treatment center.




Kumarakom Lake Resort is located by the Arabian Sea along a narrow strip of lowland with extensive backwaters, lagoons and canals flanked by coconut groves and lush green paddy fields. The resort is so unique and special that it has been accorded a Heritage Resort classification. 28 poolside villas, transplanted from various villages in Kerala, each recall a traditional style of the illams (homesteads) of old, and all have been re-built to include ultra-modern amenities. The resort's Ayurvedic treatment center is particularly well-regarded.



The Hill Stations:

Paradise Plantation Retreat is set in the pristine hills of Kerala on its own coffee and spice plantation. This area was the site of the summer palace of the Maharajas of Travancore and is an area renowned for its tea plantations. The architecture of the retreat is based on traditional Kerala wooden houses embellished with antique columns and artifacts. Its open dining veranda overlooks the cool Cardamom hills, believed to have figured in the great Indian epic, the Mahabharata.




Adventure in Kerala:

Kalypso Adventures is the one for the more adventurous traveler looking for physical challenges in a unique environment. The company offers jungle treks in the Periyar Tiger Reserve, mountain biking, whitewater rafting in the Periyar River, wildlife tented safaris, birding outings, and eco tours. The company also offers family and youth camps and corporate adventure holidays for larger groups. One of its treks that starts in the Periyar reserve passes through thick tropical rainforests, with abundant wildlife including elephants, Gaur which are a type of bison, the Lion Tailed macaques and plentiful bird life. Camping is in specially made protected enclosures in the middle of the rainforest—after all, this is tiger country, though the real possibility of seeing one of these reclusive beasts is not great. Trails stretch through high altitude of the Munnar mountains and across splendid grasslands. Kalypso Adventures provides items like sleeping bags, rucksacks and first aid equipment as well as all the camping paraphernalia of tents and the rest. Just bring personal effects.

Far Horizons Of India is another adventure company worth investigating. Far Horizons Of India, offers the biggest backwaters houseboat, a ten-bedroom floating giant named Vaikundam, meaning the abode of the Lord Vishnu, the god of preservation in the Hindu mythology. This type of boat is called a Kettuvallum meaning a rice barge. The shallow and rounded hull of the boat is made without using a single nail, and each Anjali wood plank is joined to the next with strong rope and then coated with black resin obtained from boiled cashew nuts and fish oils. The claim is that it is the largest boat of this kind in the world. The Far Horizons Of India company also offers tented safaris in Rajasthan.





Exotic Kerala:

Kerala is a land rich in the artistic expressions of its ancient culture and history. It is a land of festivals and religious celebrations, of music and dance. Among its best-known dance forms is Kathakali with elaborately costumed and painted dancers recounting stories based on the Ramayana and the Manhabarata and stories of Krishna and Ram. It is a highly stylized dance drama, and the telling of the story requires the subtlest of eye movements and gestures to communicate the fine points of the story. Costuming requires hours of make-up for the dancers who represent various deities and demons. Also illustrated is a male dancer performing the snake dance in which he mimics the movements of a cobra and a female dancer whose movements tell of a chance encounter between a hesitant maiden and the amorous Lord Krishna.




Some final thoughts:

There is no need for American tourism to deny itself this lovely corner of India, far from the troubled border with Moslem Pakistan. India is a predominantly Hindu country, the world's most populous democracy, English-speaking, growing exponentially in technical and industrial proficiency, friendly toward the United States, and still maintaining a truly fascinating and unique exoticism of cultures and attractions found nowhere else in quite the same profusion. A visit to Kerala to unwind after a tour of India's "Golden Triangle" of Delhi/Agra/Jaipur would make just about the ideal India vacation--with the possibility of including a hop to Kerala's neighboring southern state of Tamil Nadu for its incomparable temples. Air India, a first-class international airline and the national carrier of India has excellent direct service from New York and Chicago to Delhi via London and from Los Angeles via Singapore to Cochin. There is a good possibility that direct Air India flights will resume from the Eastern U.S. to Bombay. Internally within India, Indian Airlines and newcomer, Jet Air with an all-new fleet and highest standards both offer service to every corner of the subcontinent.
Photo Credits:
Rod Lopez-Fabrega and Courtesy of: Kerala Tourism, Tourism India, Photo Sven Ulsa, V.B.Anand, Marani Beach Resort, Poovar Island Resort, Aquaserene, Kumarakom Lake Resort, Paradise Plantation, Kalypso Adventures, Far Horizons

For More Information On India and Kerala:
India Tourism, 212-586-4901/4902/4903, Fax 212-582-3274, ny@itonyc.com; Kerala Tourism, 011-91-471-322547, Fax 011-91-471-322279, deptour@md2.vsni.net.in

© 2002 ROMAR TRAVEL GUIDES