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The Gobi Desert has been described as one of the harshest landscapes on the planet.


The Gobi Desert is afflicted by sandstorms, poor infrastructure and lack of water. There are few people with a scattering of Mongolian nomadic gers (moveable tent-like shelters) and small towns. But there are treasures to be found. The Gobi extends from the southern part of Mongolia to the northern regions of China.

My adventure with Mongolia started a little over two years ago when I decided to teach from 2009-2011 at an international school in the capital city of Ulaanbaatar. I'm in my 60s, a single woman and had always wanted to live and work outside the States.

In April 2011, I traveled to the Gobi Desert with a friend for six days and five nights. We stayed in gers, the nomadic homes of the Mongolian people. There were no shower facilities and the toilet was the bush and occasionally some outhouses. April was a good time to travel even though there would be some cold weather, but not the -35F that can occur during the harsh Mongolian winters. The trip was arranged through Idre's Tour Company based out of Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia's capital (price: 74 USD per person for a two person tour, everything included except for the flight to Ulaanbaatar).



We left early Saturday morning in a four wheel, four passenger vehicle that would be "home" for a while. Bata was the driver and didn't speak any English and Soko was the tour guide, cook and translator--she spoke English and Mongolian and pretty good German.

From Ulaanbaatar we traveled south. The roads in Ulaanbaatar aren't always the best--potholes making traveling bumpy. However, we soon discovered extremely bumpy terrain as we left the paved road for a dirt road and then crossed areas of barren desert on makeshift roads for a 1200 mile round trip.


Zorgol Khairkhan Mountain:

After traveling through wheat colored hills with no other people around, we stopped at Zorgol Khairkhan Mountain. Cooking from the back of the vehicle, our guide made a lunch of noodles with mushrooms and we ate surrounded by the granite rock formations, a salt lake nearby and watching horses protect their new foals. Throughout the trip, because it was spring, there were many newborns.


Baga Gazriin Chuluu:



While driving the short distance to Baga Gazriin Chuluu ruins, we got our first glimpse of several Mongolian Bactrians, the two humped camel with a shaggy wool coat. Riding the two humped camel across the desert is a must experience. The animals are accustom to people and very gentle.



The Baga Gazriin Chuluu was a Buddhist sanctuary destroyed by the Communists. We hiked around the sanctuary up into the golden rocky hills enjoying the solitude of this special place.

As we continued our journey, we found that small towns crop up infrequently. We stopped at one that had a market selling whole dead goats. Two women bought one and then carried it to their car.


Desert Accommodations Family Style:


PHOTO CREDIT: Wikipedia = Tkn20
PHOTO CREDIT: German Wikipedia = DexDeerstalker

That night we stayed in our first ger. There were four--three for the family and one for travelers. The entrance to a ger always faces south and the Mongolian custom is to first meet the family in their ger before going to yours. Entering with your right foot, walking clockwise, visitors sit on the left. Families are made up of extended members and usually one of the women will offer milk tea and biscuits. Always accept with your right hand. When leaving the ger, continue to walk in a clockwise direction.



Since it was spring, many of the nomadic families were transitioning between their winter and summer gers. Everyone helps assembling the new ger. When completed, a rope representing the intestines of sheep is woven between the orange slates and the ceiling. This insures there will be an abundance of food throughout the coming seasons.

Nomads in this aimag (region) raise goats and sheep. It was getting dark as we waited for the father to return from herding. When he finally came down from the hill, he was carrying a newborn goat.

Mongolians eat a lot of meat because of its availability and high fat content that fuels the body during the extremely cold winters. Some Mongolian families follow the religious custom of shaving a child's head when he/she is close to three years old. The family's daughter had just had her head shaved.

In addition to cooking, Mongolian women share many of the same chores as the men. They work very hard as they herd goats and sheep while hauling water up from a well for their flock.



The White Cliffs and Nomadic Ways:



The White Cliffs is a site of an ancient ocean and could be described as a painted desert. It looks as though an artist has brushed the hills in iridescent colors of golds, pinks and oranges. The area is abundant in marine fossils.

The nomads in this region are camel herders. They use camel dung in place of wood for cooking and heating. Nowadays many nomads travel the desert using motorcycles and they also use them as well for herding their camels. As we were driving, we saw one of these "road warriors" on his motorcycle, and he drew our attention because he was wearing a dell, the traditional Mongolian costume, talking on his cell and wearing a baseball hat.

We met an 85 year old woman--unusual because of the harsh nomadic life. Life expectancy in Mongolia is around 65. We watched a young girl collect the dung using her bare hands and a bucket.

The Mongolian government pays and provides education for nomadic children. The next morning, we drove the nine year old daughter to a small town to go to school. She would board there for the week.



The Yolin Am Protected Area:



Yolin Am is in the middle of the Gobi in a protected area. The mountains are some of the highest in the Gobi and for most of the year the canyon is covered in ice. Because it was late April we were able to walk into the ice gorge valley--about three miles round trip. It was very quiet and pristine. Tics are abundant here and it’s important to check clothing after leaving.


Khongoryn Els Dunes and the Flaming Cliffs of Bayan-Zag:



PHOTO CREDIT: Wikipedia = Jonas Satkauskas

The velvety, golden Khongoryn Els sand dunes rise like giants and can be seen for miles around. They are some of the largest and most spectacular sand dunes in Mongolia. Small streams and ponds are at the base of the dunes. Hiking is a popular sport as people try to make their way up the sandy hills.


PHOTO CREDIT: Wikipedia Commons = JJHarrison

The next day we drove to the Flaming Cliffs of Bayan-Zag, famous for the discovery of dinosaur fossils. The cliffs truly look like they are on fire with splashes of reds, yellows and oranges--a smaller version of the Grand Canyon. We walked around trying to get a feel of what it must have been like to discover this unique place.

To understand the true history of this region, read about Roy Chapman Andrews, an American explorer who in the 1920s ventured into the Gobi Desert, an unchartered area. He went there to find out something about the origin of man, but instead discovered a treasure trove of dinosaur bones. He is allegedly the real person that the movie character of Indiana Jones was patterned after. Today, the fossils can be seen at the Museum of Natural History in Ulaanbaatar.



Ghengis Khan Country


PHOTO CREDIT: Wikipedia
PHOTO CREDIT: Wikiipedia = Astrokey44

Mongolia is a simple and yet complex country where Chinggis Khan (a.k.a. Genghis Khan) is still revered in every aspect of life. Today, Mongolia is a rapidly industrializing country experiencing huge changes. However, the nomadic lifestyle that dates back to the time of the Khans continues, and nomadic families are warm and very hospitable to foreign visitors.

Once the Mongol Empire covered most of Asia and extended into Europe to the gates of Vienna. Shown on the map above is the Mongol Empire as it was from its founding by Genghis Khan in 1206, through the death of Genghis Khanin in 1227 to the rule of Kublai Khan (1260-1294). Modern day country boundaries are shown.

Part of the allure of the Gobi Desert is its immense vastness and emptiness that has a romantic quality especially to those who visit and to those who have knowledge of its remarkable history. One caution for today's visitors is that sandstorms in the Gobi are a frequent occurrence and a problem for both man and beast. In an instant, the sky can turn from blue to light brown as sand swirls everywhere. However, after the storm disperses in the middle of the night, the cleared skies reveal an unbound firmament of brilliant stars stretching from horizon to horizon.


PHOTO CREDITS: Diane Height, Wikipedia as indicated.




 
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