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 Asian Continent |
 Brunei Darussalam: The Abode of Peace One of the last absolute monarchies on Earth, the Sultanate of Brunei is moving with style into the twenty-first century By Mary Ashcraft |
 Haji Hassanil Bolkiah, Brunei's 29th Sultan and possibly the richest man in the world. |
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Bathed by the waters of the South China Sea in the northwest coast of Borneo is the tropical Sultanate of Brunei. The discovery of oil in 1929 in the Seria oil field has made Haji Hassanil Bolkiah, Brunei's 29th Sultan, possibly the richest man in the world. His bank account was recently assessed at 35 billion dollars---give or take a billion. Sultan Bolkiah's dynasty is the second oldest next to Japan, and Brunei is the second richest Asian nation after Japan. Oil has made it possible for the citizens of Brunei to have free medical care, free education, low interest on houses and cars, and no tax worries. It all sounds a little like Paradise. The inhabitants of this little nation like to think so. They call their land, the Abode of Peace. Tourists are welcome and may wander at will without fear of purse snatching or bodily harm. The strict adherence to the tenets of Islam and the highest average income in Asia are probably responsible for this freedom. And, rare for an Asian country, it is uncrowded and easy-going. |
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...everyone you meet goes out of his way to understand you and to be helpful. |
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 Today, it is hard to imagine that this small country, about the size of Delaware, lush in tropical vegetation and with a comfortable, laid-back style was once an important trading port teeming with activity. Not only was it strategically located as a prime trading area, it held sway over most of Borneo, the Sulu Archipelago, Mindanao and Manila. As far back as 518 A.D., its busy port docked Chinese, Arab, Indian and other Asian ships bringing and exchanging goods. China traded silk, stoneware and porcelain for Brunei's coveted bird's nests for soup and hornbill ivory for carving. Old Chinese coins can still be found on the outskirts of the capital, Bandar Seri Begawan. Today Brunei Darussalam is a Muslim country where Islam is avidly observed. All the ladies are modestly dressed and heads covered with chordas. English is spoken in all hotels. On the streets it is a little more difficult, but everyone you meet goes out of his way to understand you and to be helpful. |
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For most tourists, the capital is where all the action is.
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Bandar Seri Begawan is the only city of any size in Brunei and it is a city of contrasts with Western-style shopping malls, good hotels, some spectacular Mosques, and the largest Water Village in Asia. The most amazing building in the city is one many tourists will never see because it is open only three days in the year after Ramadan. This building is the royal palace. It is the largest palace in the world with 1,780 rooms. Its rooms and floors are adorned with marble imported from 38 countries and its golden domes of Islamic style are covered with 22-carat gold leaf. The sultan's throne room also has a few extra thrones tossed in for good measure in case other royal couples drop by for a visit. Even though the Sultan tries to play down the fact that he has great wealth, he has a cattle ranch in Australia that is larger than the whole country of Brunei. For most tourists, the capital is where all the action is. |
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 Along the river front in Bandar Seri Begawan is the largest water village in Asia, Kampong Ayer. About 30,000 people live here the way they have for at least 1,500 years. The government has tried to entice the river people to leave their unique wood structures and move into modern housing but with little success. Leaving the river would be leaving their traditional culture behind, and it is a cost they don't wish to pay. The best way to see the village is by hiring one of the motor boats that serve as taxi or commuter bus and zip up and down the Brunei River. They are easy to flag down and are cheap, about one dollar U.S. for a short trip. Each village house along the river has a personal stamp of its own. Some sparkle with fresh flowers in window boxes and clean curtains ruffling in the breeze while others look on the verge of collapse. A maze of wood plank catwalks join the houses above the river, so if you wish to go exploring it is best to go with someone who knows how to lead you in and how to lead you out. |
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Arrangements can be made to meet a village family.
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 Arrangements can be made to meet a village family in one of the selected village homes. After leaving your shoes at the front door of the house, you are very graciously invited inside where tea and cookies are laid out on a table for you. Do not be surprised if the family does not eat with you. It is considered a common courtesy that the owner of the household and his family abstain from eating while their guest is served. As in all the homes and business offices in Brunei, three portraits hang on the wall. One is of the Sultan and the other two are his present wives. |
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Brunei Seri Begawan has some fascinating museums. One is the Brunei History Center with genealogy and history of the royal family. The Muslim Life Gallery is of particular interest where manikins are in traditional dress depicting local social customs of marriages and family life. There are archaeological finds and antique Korans from Korea, India, Turkey, Egypt and Iran. If you love Baroque display, the Royal Regalia Museum is for you. There are dazzling examples of jewel-encrusted royal attire and also on display is the massive red and gold Baroque litter that carried the present newly crowned sultan through the streets of Bandar in 1968. |
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The Jame'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah mosque is the largest in Brunei.
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 The Jame'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah mosque is the largest in Brunei and was built for the 25th anniversary of the sultan's reign. Its 24-carat golden dome gleams in the Brunei sunshine as do its blue and white tiled minarets topped with golden domes. The mosque sits in a park-like setting with water fountains and well-tended lawns and flower gardens. As in all mosques, shoes and personal belongings are left at the desk on entering and ladies must put on the simple Muslim-style black robes furnished by the staff to be worn during the duration of the visit. |
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For the more adventurous visitor, there is always the Temburong National Park.
Small, motorized boats called "flying coffins" leave from the Brunei River... |
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 For the more adventurous visitor, there is always the Temburong National Park. The park is in the most mountainous part of Brunei and can only be reached by boat or plane. Small, motorized boats called "flying coffins" leave from the Brunei River in the capital. The name flying coffin stems from the shape of the boat. The top of the boat is flat and one has to enter in a bent over position. Once inside, sitting is fine but standing is impossible. About half way, the boat takes a turn onto the Temburong River and the ride up river can be a thrill a minute depending on the driver as he races through mangrove swamps, banks lined with Nipa Palms and trees with families of chattering Proboscis Monkeys. The murky brown-yellow river water is also home to black alligators with their ever watchful, yellow eyes. In about forty-minutes the boat arrives at the jetty in the small town of Bangar. It is good place to buy some refreshing rambutan or leechy nut or mangosteen--all delicious tropical fruits--before catching the bus for a short ride to the picnic ground of Batang Duri. At the banks of the river in Batang Duri are motorized dugout canoes or Temuai for the last stretch. |
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...the visitor will cross a hanging bridge over a turbulent river...
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 If possible, try to plan this trip during the wet season or you might have to help push the boat over some dry spots in the river. In most cases, visitors simply take a short river walk. Finally, at the headquarters visitors sign in and begin the climb through the rainforest. As one climbs the thousand and twelve steps up through thick vegetation and humidity, it is possible to see Fan Palm, Fishtail Palm and Nipa Palms, the latter used in making the local tribe's blowguns. Adding more interest to the journey, the visitor will cross a hanging bridge over a turbulent river and climb up forty-five winding stairs to a canopy walkway above the forest floor. The view over the top of the forest is spectacular. |
 The place to stay in Bandar Seri Begawan is the very grand Empire Hotel and Country Club. |
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 The place to stay in Bandar Seri Begawan is the very grand, Empire Hotel and Country Club. It is located along the South China Sea and is a world unto its own, comprising a series of intimate hotels with gardens, man-made lagoons and waterfalls. The hotel is grand in every sense of the word. It is large and opulent and elegant. Activities to keep one interested are: four swimming areas (two are for children), sailing, Scuba, Snorkeling, windsurfing and ocean kayaking, three cinemas, a music lounge, ten choices for dining from a members grill to Asian and international restaurants, an 18-hole Jack Nicklaus-designed golf course, plus country club facilities with three squash courts, four tennis courts, two air conditioned badminton courts, eight ten-pin bowling lanes, pool and snooker room and 16-meter lap pool. In the club are a Sauna, plunge pool, spa and a state-of-the-art gymnasium. Who could ask for anything more? The guest- rooms are large and comfortable and all have views of the splendidly landscaped grounds or of the South China Sea. There are two- and three-bedroom villas and a royal villa. For those who wish to live like a sultan while in Brunei and have the money to do so, there is the magnificent Emperor suite. |
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If you are in Malaysia or Singapore Brunei Darussalam could be easily included in your itinerary.
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The very long flight from North America probably doesn't warrant making Brunei Darussalam your primary vacation target, However, if you are in Malaysia or Singapore it easily could be included in your itinerary. The small sultanate has amazing mosques, a large traditional outdoor market, good museums, water-village, a reviving craft industry of brass and silver working and hand woven fabrics. In addition, its rainforests are almost untouched as there has been little logging--thanks to the huge income brought in by petroleum--with ecotourism and rainforest research a featured aspect in its tourism thrust. It is an Islamic country that is rich and sophisticated with education a top priority even though, surprisingly, only forty years ago headhunting was outlawed. All the creature comforts are here, but if you want wine with your meals, you will have to bring it with you--each visitor is allowed to declare one bottle, and you can't buy more there, but visiting Brunei Darussalam is well worth the small sacrifice. |
| NEWS UP-DATE / September, 2001 In January 2001, the Sultan joined Brunei to nine other Asian nations in a concerted promotional effort to open its doors to tourism. In light of recent developments, this is probably the smartest thing he could have done for it appears that as, the richest man in the world, the Sultan chose in a relatively short time to allow fifteen billion dollars to be spent solely in support of his family's extravagant lifestyle. That, coupled with the economic slump in Southeast Asia, was responsible for a garage sale of mammoth proportions. From their various palaces and 27 warehouses, a sampling of the tastes and pleasures of this omnipotent family was on sale recently. If you were there, you might have purchased some gold plated toilet fixtures, antique cannons, china with royal seals, a 12-foot-high bronze rocking horse, bowling alley equipment, fire engines designed by Mercedes, gold trimmed Jacuzzis, a gaggle of grand pianos, simulators for a Comanche attack helicopter or an airbus A-340. Clearly, Brunei is in for a change, and things will probably never be the same. |
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Brunei Tourism: E-mail bruneitourism@brunet.bn Website http://www.visitbrunei.com Empire Hotel and Country Club: E-mail mail@empire.com.bn Website http://www.empire.com.bn PHOTOS: Mary Ashcraft and Courtesy of Brunei Tourism Bureau |
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ROMAR TRAVEL GUIDES ©2007 |
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