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By Deborah Ratcliffe
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In Rajasthan Province, the opulence of the old India of the Maharajahs is in dramatic contrast to the simple existence of the Bishnoi peoples, whose lives have been attuned for millennia to the natural demands of the starkly beautiful but unforgiving desert land in which they live.
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There is no need to follow traditional tourist routes to India to get the feel and pulse of this eclectic land. Just wander the countryside stopping at some small village, climb a hill to a sacred shrine or take a ride on local bus or train--just feel the real India!
India is a land full of extremes and surprises. Travelers are incessantly amazed by the contrasts of rich and poor: the unadulterated luxury and the sheer grinding poverty and still more amazed by the stoical resilience of the people. An unspoken air of acceptance hangs in the air. Yet there is a touch of vibrancy and hope. On a tour it is vital to see as much as possible of Indian life--not just relaxing in the wonderful hotels but getting out and seeing the lifestyle of all the different peoples. |
The Bishnoi:
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One such is the Bishnoi, a desert tribe in Rajasthan and perhaps the original eco warriors, a society dedicated to preserving nature as it exists in their desert world, sometimes at great cost.
These modest and highly principled people live under the twenty-nine precepts established by their prophet, Lord Jhambheshwar. These include no killing or eating of animals, no cutting down of living trees and no alcohol consumption.
The Bishnoi have an impressive history of self-sacrifice. They don't just preach eco awareness but literally have given up their lives to stick to their principles. This faith was passionately and dramatically put to the test in 1730 when a local woman, Amrita Devi protested at trees being cut by the Maharajas men; she gave her life up to save a tree and another 363 villagers followed suit!
A small Temple, parkland and monument commemorate this amazing act. What a sacrifice! As this observer stood there at the monument, a solitary Blackbuck darted past, too fast for the camera lens to capture. He glanced as he sped by. His eyes were full, and one could imagine they reflected memories of events that happened there.
Today the passion and spirit lives on. A famous Bollywood actor has been accused of killing a Blackbuck--an even more heinous crime as many Bishnoi consider the buck to be reincarnated family members. The wealth and status of the actor will not deter the Bishnoi from prosecuting, and the case is still to be decided, though it's not looking good for the film star.
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| The daily life of the Bishnoi is hard; they live and work the land. They are committed vegetarians and truly believe in the sanctity of all life. Rajasthan is dry, and drought a way of life. They till the fields and look after their precious cattle, a source of income as they sell the milk to the cities. Everyone works. Children herd the cattle, grandmothers collect firewood, the young women often walk for miles to collect the water, sometimes 3-4 times a day. Yet every time you meet villagers they laugh and smile. It's hard to imagine the hardships they face. |
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The Bhishnoi Welcome Ceremony:
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The Bishnoi are still following their traditional ways. The Opium Tea Ceremony has been a ritual for the Bishnoi since time immemorial. It's given to honored guests as a sign of respect and to welcome them to the host's home. I was privileged as a special ceremony was held for me. Sitting on a traditional durry the grandfather, bewhiskered and splendid in his crisp white outfit, sat crossed legged before a small wooden contraption comprising two strainers, two beautifully carved wooden urns, a pestle and a small metal container holding water.
He dug deep into the hidden folds of his shirt and from a small bag produced two pieces of opium. Each piece was about the size of a lump of sugar. The opium was bound into jagerary (a palm sugar) to form a solid lump.
He offered me a taste of the raw product. I inclined my head in polite refusal.
Then, in sonorous tones, he incanted a short prayer of dedication. The old man broke a piece from one lump, placed it in one of the urns. He then added water and ground the mixture down to a fine paste, diluting it further with water to become a thin broth.
Next he strained the opium liquid through the long conical strainers. He repeated the process, and satisfied that the color--the liquid had a golden hue--and the fluidity were correct poured a few mouthfuls into his cupped hands. This was then the 'gift' offered to guests.
Not surprisingly I decline the generous offer but was concerned I might have given offence. I needn't have worried as my guide had already told the grandfather neither of us would be participating in the ceremony but would be avid onlookers.
The idea for drinking from the palm is that by offering an 'open hand' the host is offering his home freely. Likewise by drinking from the palm the guest is acknowledging this hospitality and, by the inclination of the head downwards, intimates he is totally relaxed. Still, the ritual gesture does not mask the nervousness of those unitiated into the opium ceremony. A strange thought pops into my mind: indeed if this were a trap, with my head at that angle it would be a relatively simple task to lop my head off! Nerves! Nothing could be farther away from the reality of this kind and hospitable gesture.
Opium was used to ease the burden and hardship from working endlessly in the fields through all weathers, and, as it was an expensive commodity, it showed family wealth and family hospitality! Unfortunately, today opium has become a social problem and has less hospitable uses than greeting guests.
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| After meeting with these people, a mindset change is inevitable. Initially, the stereotype suggests they are - Tribal people, 'simple' country people, rather folksy and perhaps burdened by an overblown romantic image of who and what they are. But NO! How wrong and how presumptuous! The Bishnoi are deeply in tune with nature, with the nuance of the land, the rhythm of life. Their belief is all consuming, and they live by it without compromise. We could learn a great deal. |
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The Opulence of the Old India of the Maharajahs:
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The simple life of the Bishnoi, is impossible to compare with the old lifestyle of the Maharajahs. The sheer unadulterated splendor and opulence of the life styles once enjoyed by the princes of Rajhastan is stunning to the tourist of today. A visit to the Umaid Bhawan City Palace museum shows a mere hint of the history and magnificence of these ruling families. Climbing the steep path to the formidable Merangarh Fort gives an added glimpse of Royal family life: jewel encrusted cradles, golden palanquins and exquisite priceless miniature paintings depicting everyday scenes.
Today their role has been rewritten. With a new and modern India emerging there was no place for the aristocracy. Exactly 60 years ago, after independence from the British, the Royal families went into decline. They had to fight for their possessions and rights, and now a new breed has emerged, stronger than before (though technically lacking in political power!). They are using their resources to develop new roles, particularly becoming hoteliers and turning their former Palaces and Forts into Heritage Hotels, thus creating new jobs and sustaining local development. When speaking to royal family members, you can't help but be impressed by their fervor for their country and desire to move with the times and truly make a new but important mark in India. Not withstanding, locals still come to the former royals for advice as their forefathers have done for generations past! History and tradition are slow to change, even as a new modern India emerges throughout the 60 years since Independence from the British.
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| Rajasthan is a place well suited to meandering. A good time to visit is August, and, surprisingly, it's cooler (monsoon time) than one would expect--the humidity is high, but bearable! The crowds are less and queues shorter! In Jodhpur stay in charismatic hotels. A favorite is the heritage hotel, the Ajit Bhwan, one of the former homes of the ruling family of Jodhpur. |
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Sources for the preparation of this article:
Flights: Emirates : www.emirates.com
Tour Operator: Indus Discoveries: www.indusdiscoveries.com.
Indian Visa: www.india.org.mt:80/
Indian Tourist Office: www.incredibleindia.org/
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