Ever since the fruit vendor in Tunisia immolated himself and then-President Ben Ali fled the country, there has been an unprecedented, historic, game-changing struggle in Arab lands against long-entrenched dictators.
We are bombarded with images of bloody oppression, fearless resistance, and a deep yearning for democracy among those who support the uprisings. When things calm down, intrepid and curious travelers have a once-in-a-lifetime chance to experience what it is like during the birth of a new Arab democracy. Judith Fein and Paul Ross recently went behind the scenes in Tunisia, to see what was happening and how people felt on the eve of their October 23rd elections. For most Tunisians, it was to be the first free elections they had ever experienced. Fein and Ross are now excited about the possibilities of---Revolutionary Travel. Here is what they found in Tunisia: |
 In late May of 2011, my husband Paul and I were en route to Tunisia, which was largely calm and peaceful, to see what the revolution was like on the ground. In my experience, there is media, and then there is reality. Reality, for me, means traveling around the country, meeting a lot of people, listening to what they have to say, asking questions, and trying to get below the surface. |
We were just about to board a Tunis Air flight when I got a frantic email telling me that riots had broken out in Tunis, the main avenue where we had booked a hotel room was shut down under military guard, and we would have no access to our hotel. I felt a surge of panic. Once we reached Tunisia, it would be nighttime, and we would have no place to go.
What happened then was extraordinary. I asked the passengers around me, if anyone had ideas for another hotel in a tranquil part of the city. The next thing I knew, the plane had taken off, I was standing in the aisle, and half of the Tunisians, Libyans and Algerians on the plane were talking to me. They asked me why Americans killed Bin Laden instead of capturing him. They asked my advice about democracy in America (I told them it's still a work in progress more than two and a half centuries since its advent in the U.S.). We talked about Ben Ali, Mubarak and Qaddafi, trying to decide who was the biggest crook, thug or murderer (you can guess the answer).
After about half an hour of give-and-take and laughter, a tall, beautiful woman at the back of the plane shouted out an invitation for us to come home with her. I almost fell over, and I can assure you there was no turbulence.
And so, while strict curfew was imposed on Tunis, we went to the home of Imen (who turned out to be a star basketball player). In her modern, comfortable house, we met her gorgeous sister Asma (who was a TV sitcom star and is now the host of a TV show for women). While we talked, their momma was busy making and serving us lamb couscous at midnight. When we finished the last grain of couscous, the family bedded down in the living room on mattresses, insisting that we sleep in the large bedroom. |
The curfew had been lifted, the riots were short-lived and, apparently, fueled by testosteronic kids who thought democracy meant whooping it up and looting. Hey, when you have been gagged and oppressed for three decades, the move to democracy is going to be a story of trial and error.
But, more importantly, when people heard that we were alone in Tunisia, they invited us to their houses, they stopped to talk to us, they made special food for us in restaurants, they had us over for couscous and mechouia (grilled vegetable salad). They put us on national radio. They met us in cafes and restaurants. They wanted to share with us their age-old hospitality and their new found freedom. |
A Quick Tour of Tunisia Today:
Credit Map: Wikimedia Commons |
The last nine days of the trip, we joined a small group of foreign visitors on a study tour to Tunisia. Jerry Sorkin, a tour operator with TunisUSA.com, decided that conventional tourism wouldn't work in these turbulent times. Instead, he decided to take interested tourists behind the scenes of the revolution. This was his first group (12 people), and it reflected Sorkin's lifelong commitment to peace, intercultural relations and hands-on touring.
The group consisted of museum directors, teachers, a photographer, an IT whiz who had worked with non-profits, an economist, a retired oil man, the head of a large travel organization. They were wildly enthusiastic as they met Tunisian teachers, artists, the head of a non-profit that makes micro loans to women, students, revolutionaries and a Shakespearean actor.
They were accompanied by Hatem Bourial, the man who arguably could be considered one of the most versatile and knowledgeable guides in Tunisia.
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The Roman City of Dougga: |
| Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons |
Photo Credit : Wikimedia Commons / Drew Hess |
| They visited the Roman city of Dougga, an ancient Roman urb in northern Tunisia that has been said to be the best preserved Roman small town of the 2nd and 3rd centuries CE in all of North Africa--a UNESCO World Heritage site that also contains Carthaginian and ancient Algerian Berber ruins that predate the Romans. |
Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons / Trsqr |
El Djem Museum Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons / Effi Schweizer |
| They walked through the bowels of El Djem (a.k.a. El Jem) amphitheater, where gladiators and beasts prepared for battle for the enjoyment of 35,000 spectators. In recent times, the coliseum was used for filming some of the scenes from the film "Gladiator", with actor Russell Crowe doing the 'gladiating'. They also visited the fine El Djem Museum with its extraordinary Roman mosaics. |
Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons / SvenZ |
| They strolled through the streets of whitewashed, bougainvillea-dripping Sidi Bou Said, only 20 km from Tunis and a popular tourism center, it is noted for its architectural use of the color blue to offset the brilliantly whitewashed buildings: blue doorways, blue shutters on blue-framed windows, blue umbrellas. blue public benches, blue, blue, blue, but mostly the blue of the Mediterranean that can be seen from its terraces. |
| Credit:Wikimedia Commons/Alexandre Moreau |
Credit:Wikimedia Commons/Damien Entwhistle |
| Photo Credit: Wiki Commons / Jaume Ollé |
Photo Credit: Wiki Commons / Ovan Cantfort |
| They visited the great Mosque of Uqba, a.k.a. the Great Mosque of Kairouan, one of the most important in Tunisia and one of the oldest places of worship in the western Islamic world. Somewhat surprising for a place of worship, it was named after Uqba ibn Nafi, an Arab hero and conquering general who brought much of North Africa under the Umayyad dynasty (think Al Andalus and Moslem Spain). He is quoted as having said, "Oh God, if the sea had not prevented me, I would have galloped on forever like Alexander the Great, upholding your faith and fighting the unbelievers!" |
| Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons |
Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons / Rais 67 |
| They visisted the Island of Djerba (a.k.a. Jerba), noted for its great beaches and as one of the few remaining places in Tunisia where a Berber language is still spoken. In addition to being a great tourism target for sun loving Australians and winter weary Europeans, it has been a favorite destination for film makers, including the sites for filming those early scenes in Star Wars where Luke Skywalker meets up with his robotic sidekicks. In contrast to General Uqba's somewhat politically incorrect musings about 'unbelievers', Djerba has been home to sizeable minorities of Maltese Catholics and Cohanim Jews, dwellers on the island for more than 2,500 years. |
The Ancient Synagogue of Djerba: |
PHOTO = Wiki Commons / Jalo |
| They visited the ancient Ghriba synagogue on the Island of Djerba, the destination of an annual pilgrimage for Tunisian Jews during the celebration of Passover. |
Accommodation Amenities Everywhere: |
They slept in 5-star hotels and dined on traditional delicacies and wines that were produced using techniques from ancient Carthage.
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In short, they fell in love with Tunisia and the smart, soulful, tender, passionate, artistic, generous, brave, funny people they met there.
They felt safe, excited and engaged.
Most of all, they learned, up close, without any media mediation, how Tunisians are forging their revolution. "It's such a perfect time to be part of history," one teacher said.
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After Thoughts: So, Revolutionary Travel Anyone?
| My vote is yes, yes, yes, but keep an eye on the news. The first elections took place in October of 2011, and there is hope and doubt among Tunisians. Will things really change? Who will dominate Tunisian politics? Readers should watch the news to see how Tunisia is progressing on its revolutionary road....
As is always prudent, Revolutionary Travelers first should take into account the consular recommendations published by their own governments before plunging into the fray. |
PHOTO CREDITS: Paul Ross
Additional Photos Credited to Wikimedia Commons photographers, as indicated (Published under Creative Commons license #Attribution 2.0 Generic (cc by 2.0)
For more information about Judith Fein and Paul Ross, their articles, photos, videos, trips and quips, visit their website, www.globaladventure.us.
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