Initially, you need to stop off in Tunis. The capital city of Tunisia is modern but with a charater of its very own, as can be seen in its architectural details. Additionally, it is conveniently situated to visit the local Roman places of interest. Tunis also has numerous excellent hotels in all categories. On this visit the Hotel Africa was selected. Located in the center of the city of Tunis it is ideally placed to browse the shops on the chic Rue De La Republique and the bustling Medina. If you prefer to be on the coast, then the delightful Cotes de Carthage has a plethora of beachside hotels.

The first stop has to be the incomparable Bardo Museum in Tunis. Not only do you see superb mosaics and sculptures but you also get an overview of the Roman period, giving context to the visits to the actual sites. Look out for the mosaics, in particular those from the Maison De La Chase (House of the Hunt) in Bulla Regia. The color of the mosaics is still outstanding, and at times the intricacy in design simply amazing. Look out for what is thought to be one of the first 'jokes' with gladiators (no doubt about to die in the games) complaining and laughing! There are other worthy museums to visit but, if time is pressing, the Bardo will cover all aspects

Next, visit Carthage and wander the Antonine Baths and then see the Punic Port, not strictly Roman but worth viewing. Here you start to get a taste of the sheer luxury the sybaritic Romans enjoyed while at the same time you can imagine the sheer hell the slaves endured stoking furnaces in dark subterranean passages in temperature soaring into more than 40 degrees Celsius (over 100 degrees F) to keep the temperatures in the baths perfect for their masters.

The Roman Legions soon enveloped the whole country, establishing many military bases and camps. One such place was Dougga, perched like an eagles nest on a commanding peak, with superb far-reaching views. It grew into a vast town, and the remains (now protected by UNESCO) rival any. To get there you pass through fertile countryside--wide plains scattered with Almond and Olive groves and rolling hills with pine clad slopes. On their lower reaches, old men tend herds of goats or sheep. By the roadside local farmers set up their stalls laden with honey, dried chilli, cans of petrol and homemade bread. Mournful donkeys stand weary in the fierce sun, resting until their toil begins, again and children, ever smiling in crisp school uniforms, gambol like new born on their way to school.

Excavations first began at Dougga in 1883 by the French. The ruins were buried under a village, which has now been relocated to a hillside close by. They found a plethora of treasures: fine mosaics, superb statures, almost intact buildings and, most importantly, an insight into the Roman way of life.

The Theatre is stunning and the acoustics superb. Look out for the 'prompt' holes. Even Roman actors needed a helping hint when they forgot a line! Climb 19 tiers to the top and absorb the atmosphere. Each summer they hold a festival; and it is spellbinding listening to original Roman plays. At the great baths with their myriad of underground tunnels, walk where the slaves toiled, sweating in the fierce heat to keep the fires alight for the 'caldarium'. Then, visit the magnificent capitol and the temple to the gods Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. Look out for the 'compass' on the floor by the side of the temple. Pop into the 'market' and walk in the forum originally graced by 35 red/orange marble columns from Chemtou. It's quite breathtaking.

Next, travel to Bulla Regia. At first glance, it looks rather uninspiring--rows of ruins about shoulder height or less--until you come to the superb baths of Julia Memmia and the delightful amphitheatre. But, the true magic of the site is yet to come! As you climb down steps into what you think is the basement of a house, you find yourself in a stunning underground retreat.

The ancient Romans, thinking of creature comforts, built a second home below ground using natural air through ingenious architectural methods to provide a cool soothing atmosphere. It was the forerunner of modern climate control. The temperature could be easily lowered by a minimum of 10 degrees (50 degrees F) . Therefore, when you consider it reaches 50 degrees (close to 122 degrees F) in the area, even a small drop is welcome. Typically with the Romans, only the rich had these subterranean retreats, and the poor had to suffer the unforgiving sun.

Inside there are some wonderful mosaics--many have been lifted and preserved in the Bardo--but those left insitu are quite astounding in their color and quality. The signs are in French--Maison De La Chasse and Maison Du Tresor, for example--which I think make the buildings sound far more romantic! Only a small portion of this remarkable site has been excavated as, sadly, money has run out; so we may never discover the full magnificence of ancient Bulla Regia.

The last stage of this particular journey visits Sbeitla, with an overnight in the Hotel Sufeitula, a simple two- to three-star property, newly refurbished in a relaxed style and serving uncomplicated food. Hotels are few and far between in this area, and the Sufeitula turned out to be a good choice with newly refurbished en suite rooms and a delightful swimming pool.

Sbeitla is another outstanding site. One building that strikes a chord with modern day travelers is the delightful 'tax man's offices' with its huge basins ready to collect the dues. Times obviously haven't changed, and the tax man is and was everywhere! You can just imagine the procrastination of the poor taxpayer and the implacable bureaucrat wielding power all those centuries ago.

Without doubt, the capitol with its three Temples to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva were outstanding. The grace and lines of the buildings were remarkable. Simply wander the forum with its elegant pillars and paving slabs, walk under the refined Arch of Diocletian and admire the luxurious baths. Finally sit in the beautiful theatre, where on this visit, young boys practice their judo. It was so good to see them using their heritage instead of allowing it to be just another tourist attraction. There are also some very interesting Christian ruins that include a beautifully restored baptismal bath.

On this trip, many important sites such as El Jem and Mahktar, for example, were omitted as the intention was to get a taste of the Roman era and then perhaps follow it up with an in-depth tour later on. This three-day adventure was a small sampling of the delights Tunisia holds for the lover of antiquity: more ancient cities to visit, more forums to wander, mosaics to see and, above all, the jewel of Tunisian Roman heritage to admire in El Jem, the coliseum, a rival to Rome's magnificent arena. Tunisia hides many secrets and none better than her Roman heritage!

Some Additional Contacts:

Tunisian Tourism website: www.tourismtunisia.com

Hotel Africa:www.elmouradi.com

Hotel Sufeitula:0077 465 074 / 311