R
African Continent





By: Rob van der Geest

"The Sahara on a bicycle, is that possible?"
In 2006 two Dutchmen proved that it is not only possible but a challenging and unique adventure as well. They organized a bike expedition of 7,200 km (4,500 miles) beginning in Paris, continuing through France, Andorra and Spain, crossing the Mediterranean to northwest Africa through portions of the Sahara, the biggest desert on earth, traversing Morocco, Mauritania, and ending in Dakar, the capital city of Senegal. The challenge was accepted by a diverse group of 25 enthusiastic and fit cyclists. Both men and women participants ranged in ages from 23 to 62. They came from eleven countries worldwide from Canada to Latvia and from Finland to Australia. Among them were travel guides and computer experts, a young guy scheduled to start military service afterwards, a 46-year-old woman who was in between jobs, and even several newly retired and very fit senior citizens. There were two classes of riders: the self-testing road warriors and the sightseeing leisure riders. On September 10, 2006 the caravan left from the base of the Eiffel Tower in Paris and hit the road to Dakar.





...with TLC, as needed...


Logistically, a fully equipped truck with supplies, a kitchen and a water tank of 1,000 liters followed the cyclists. At pre-determined sites, a new camp was organized daily with individual tents for the participants, meals and TLC (tender, loving care), as needed. During the day, a small van provided a lunch and refills of drinking bottles at halfway stages. Mechanic Ewald and doctor Franziska from Switzerland took care of all problems concerning bikes and bodies, so that the riders arrived in Dakar safe and sound. All of them did, and they enjoyed traveling slowly by bike from the Eiffel Tower in Paris via scenic routes to the thatched huts in Senegal.


2007
Another trip along the same route is planned for September of 2007.
If you are interested in participating, here is a blow by blow of how it will look to you:


Paris, and the cyclists are eager to hit the road.
The cyclists are eager with anticipation at the start in the center of Paris as they prepare to hit the road for the adventure of a lifetime--and more. The starting line is at the base of the impressive iron construction that is the Eiffel Tower, the perfect location for the beginning of this challenging journey. Paris is left along the banks of the Seine with a last glance at famous attractions like Notre Dame cathedral and the Louvre Museum. The warming sun and the pleasant tailwind make life easy on this first day of the journey. Soon the riders enjoy the panoramic views of the verdant French countryside with its lush farms and historic castles and chateaux.

There is time to explore the ancient fortress of Carcassonne.
The physical conditioning of the cyclists increases rapidly during the first days through green valleys and France's tidy countryside. The second day the riders have the opportunity to visit the cathedral of Vézelay, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Three days later this stage of the trip ends at another heritage site. It's the ancient cathedral of Le Puy, which marks the historic beginning of a route for religious pilgrimages. It has been visited by emperors and kings and is filled with legends about pagan and Christian shrines. A day of rest for the riders is in the fortified city of Carcassonne. There is time to explore the ancient city fortress and its many public squares, perfect places to enjoy a glass of French wine at a sidewalk café. On the terrace of one café the riders take full advantage of this opportunity to relax and rest their legs instead of pushing the pedals.

Back on the road again it doesn't take long for the group to fall into the rhythm of cycling, eating and sleeping. Every day, sunrise is the signal to open the tent zipper, rise and shine and consume a caloric breakfast of baguettes, fresh fruits and cereals at the kitchen. The signal to leave camp is scheduled at around 8 am, a new day on the bike. Half way through the day, the fast riders in the lead make only a short stop at the van providing lunch. For most of the riders, it's not a race. They take it easy and sit down for a more leisurely lunch of about an hour. Then, it's back to the road again until arrival at the place near a town or village where camp has been set up for that night. A snack of soup and bread is available. The rest of the afternoon is used for relaxing or strolling around in the nearby town. Back at the camp, a short briefing during dinner informs the cyclists 'what to expect tomorrow'. Following that, cyclists each get a detailed map of the route, absolute insurance against taking a wrong turn. Most road warriors don't last long after dinner. They return to their tents to get a well-deserved sleep after a strenuous day.

Port d'Envalira in the princedom Andorra, the highest point of the trip...
The relatively easy stages in France soon end and a challenge confronts those riders who are in the best physical shape to pedal up the high mountain passes of the Pyrenees. The route crosses the Port d'Envalira in the princedom Andorra, the highest point of the trip at 2407 meters. Englishman Andy, one of the leisure riders, manages to avoid this strenuous challenge. He turns his bike into a dark tunnel that cuts through the base of the peaks, eliminating the steep climbs. He is kicked out by the police, fortunately for him after he has arrived at the other side of the mountain.

A memorable day follows in the Pyrenees. Never ending rains combined with low temperatures and thick fog forces all leisure riders into a small roadside bar in an attempt to get their body temperatures back to acceptable values. Hypothermia threatens. At first, most of the café espresso served up to the chilled riders ends up on the floor because of the heavy shivering. Finally everyone feels restored enough to continue to finish this stage, completely exhausted but with that elation that comes from successfully managing a stiff physical challenge. It is a day no one will forget.






Spain offers plentiful sun, magnificent panoramas and an abundance of culture.
The rest day in Cuenca with its famous casas colgadas (hanging houses) is planned perfectly for the tired riders after the challenging climbs the days before. Little Rob, big Rob and Erik, three road warriors from the Baltic's stay together most of the time. They are the fast guys and for some unknown reason have been nicknamed the Hawaii Express. The more relaxed leisure riders take plenty of breaks for coffee, coke or ice cream along the road. Mika Holkeri, a computer programmer from Finland, takes it very easy. He takes plenty of pictures, visits museums and is often the last to arrive at the campsite just before sunset.

For a group hurrying through the countryside stay with little time for normal tourist activities, the cultural highlight of Spain is without doubt the Alhambra in Granada. Its stunning architecture left by the Jewish, Moorish and Catholic inhabitants throughout the centuries is a lasting tribute to the golden age of Islam. With regrets for the many points of interest missed in their rapid transit through this part of Spain, the riders still manage to enjoy the excellent nightlife in numerous tapas bars, pubs and discos.


Crossing from the continent of Europe to the continent of Africa.
A fast ferry carries the group across the Mediterranean at the Straits of Gibraltar to another continent, another culture.


Morocco: Another continent. The road is shared with goats, sheep, donkeys and monkeys.

From now on the road through Morocco is shared with goats, sheep, donkeys and monkeys. In the towns, the medinas are the oldest neighborhoods of Arab cities in North Africa. Transiting their labyrinths of narrow alleys, hidden squares and streets redolent with smells, tastes and colors, all tented over with colorful awnings it becomes clear to riders that another world has been entered. It is also the time during this adventure when people start to visit doctor Franziska more frequently. Mostly this Swiss doctor who travels with the tour deals with minor complaints such as diarrhoea and upset stomachs. Nothing to worry about.

...a verdant slash of oasis that slices through the ochre desert of Morocco...

One day the route travels Morocco's stunning Gorge du Ziz, a verdant slash of oasis that slices through the ochre desert. In the gorge, the group camps in a kasbah, a fortified cluster of buildings that in most Arab towns in North Africa often contain the residences of important citizens. The wife of the owner of this kasbah prepares delicious couscous, and the sumptuous meal is accompanied by live percussion music, creating a fantastic Arabian Nights atmosphere. The exhausted, but satisfied, cyclists enjoy the world of a thousand-and-one-nights. Tomorrow promises another day in the saddle.

...the cyclists begin to notice that they are getting closer to the Sahara...
During the stages through the rugged Atlas Mountains of Morocco the cyclists begin to notice that they are getting closer to the Sahara. Slowly vegetation disappears in favor of sand and rocks. Camels replace cows. Two colossal sculptures of camels near Tan Tan form the symbolic entrance gate to the Sahara. Road and wind conditions change every day in the Western Sahara, but the temperatures above 40 degrees (104 degrees Fahrenheit) during the daytime are scorching. The water consumption reaches maximum levels, and the heat is almost unbearable. The cyclists persist, and no one quits. All want to reach the finish in Dakar, and most of them without missing covering one single inch of pavement under their own power. Frequent stops and plentiful water to drink make it bearable. It is definitely not easy, but the personal drive of each rider is stronger than the weather and road conditions of the Sahara.

Despite the emptiness of the world and the endless straight roads the days pass by quickly. The Sahara fascinates with its yellow sand dunes, crossing camels, friendly Bedouins and nights when cloudless skies are like a scattering of glittering diamonds on a velvety blackness. Shifting winds alternate their roles as best friends or worst enemies, pushing riders along with a welcome shove from behind or slowing them down to struggle against a wall of air. Since the road follows the Atlantic shoreline much of the way, a breeze from the ocean drops the temperature by a few degrees. However, a scorching wind blowing continually from the Sahara is like a hot hair drier straight in the face.

The fast guys in the front sometimes cover stages of 160 kilometers within four hours; other days it is a struggle to keep the speedometer above 20 kilometers per hour. The more relaxed leisure riders use every opportunity to stop for a cup of tea or cold coke, straggling into camp a lot later than the road warriors, sometimes just before sunset.

Next day... camp is on the edge of a gigantic rocky plateau overlooking the Atlantic Ocean...

The support truck always manages to situate the campsite at a beautiful spot. One night the tents are at the base of a huge sand dune as tall as a high-rise building, the next day camp will be on the edge of a gigantic rocky plateau overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. One evening an old Mauritanian Mercedes passing by stops at the campsite. The occupants ask for a bottle of water, most of it is used for consumption, but it is clear that some of this valuable commodity will be used for the ritual washing of hands and feet in preparation for prayers directed toward Mecca.


Mauritania

The contrast is striking as the group leaves the emptiness of the desert and enters into the noisy and crowded streets of Nouakchott, the biggest city in the Sahara. It will be the first opportunity after long nights of tenting to enjoy some nightlife. Alcohol is not served, of course (this is Islam, after all), but the Arabic music is insistent, challenging the cyclists to move their stiff but willing cycling legs to the rhythmic Arabic sounds.

The stages are getting shorter and the temperature is slowly cooling.
After leaving the frenetic pace of the capital of Mauritania the views along the road change from city clutter to rural vegetation, country people and domestic animals. 0ccasionally, to the astonishment of the riders, a goat is seen hanging from a tree with a rope around its neck, while professional butcher skins the presumably dead animal. Hungry camels wrap their sandpaper tongues around thorn covered acacia branches and strip off a salad of leaves, apparently escaping injury. The stages are getting shorter and the temperature is slowly cooling, although it's still in the thirties (in the nineties F). The group navigates to the other side of an unimpressive and dirty little river, bringing smiles to the faces of everyone and congratulations all around. It marks a major boundary and a milestone in the voyage: The Sahara has been crossed!

The last day in Mauritania is a memorable one.
Just one more week remains to reach Dakar. one travelling through a fresh green swamp replete with meter long lizards, bright colored birds and even crocodiles. Young wild boars are startled by the fancy bikes and leap out of the bushes in a grunting, panicky swarm, sprinting along the road just in front of the cyclists. In the swamps other animals come to life at sunset: mosquitoes, millions of mosquitoes. Everyone covers every inch of exposed skin to avoid bites, and dinner is served by bright moonlight because all lights are switched off to avoid attracting more of the little devils. Take away the insistent buzz of hungry mosquito's circling to attack any exposed inch of skin, and the site will be perfect for a romantic dinner.


Senegal, the sixth and final country of the journey...

Senegal, the sixth and final country of the journey is waiting. The border seems to have a relaxing effect on the cyclists who are enjoying the sun and taking pictures of other means of transport waiting to cross the border station, including donkeys pulling overloaded barrows. Meanwhile the tour leaders must deal with every single official for permission to pass his part of the border. Bribes of 100 euro are more the rule than the exception, but sometimes the "gift" of a biker's water bottle for the official's kids can also be of help. Welcome to Senegal.

The group arrives at the city of Saint-Louis. Called Ndar in Wolof, the native language of Senegal, Saint-Louis is located in the northwest of Senegal at the mouth of the Senegal River and is 200 miles north of Senegal's Capital City Dakar. Beautiful colored wooden boats shuttle between the cyclists' campsite and the town center of Saint Louis. Downtown it is possible to wander around between fishermen fixing nets and kids playing football among goats that seem to live in the streets. On the main road women are sitting in the shade next to high piles of watermelons waiting for a customer. The day of rest in the former French colonial city is an excellent opportunity for enjoying fresh fruit juices and warm baguettes.

Three Senegalese riders join the group during the last relaxed biking days through the sloping savannah. Shepherds look surprised from under centuries old baobab trees, especially as two of the riders, Aris and his wife pass by on their tandem two-seater bike. Enthusiastic waving kids and women in colorful dresses encourage all riders loudly. When the cyclists take a break to enjoy a cold soft drink from a roadside stand, they are surrounded by dozens of curious children. The children want to show off, and the sound of their lovely songs supported with rhythmic hand clapping is touching. The excited youngsters run for hundreds of meters in a tangle of pumping arms and legs and laughter to accompany the riders when they leave their village.

Dakar, capital of Senegal, and the first Paris to Dakar by bike ends.

The last stage brings the riders to the chaotic center of metropolitan Dakar, the final destination of an epic journey. Priit Salumäe from Estonia is celebrated as the winner of the first "Paris Dakar by Bike" after cycling 7,200 fascinating kilometers (4,500 miles), crossing innumerable mountains and the seemingly endless Sahara.

Margus Püvi from Estonia and the Dutch climber Rob van den Heuvel completes the podium. Every rider looks like a winner after receiving the one-foot-high wooden trophy created by a Senegalese craftsman. Eleven riders manage to cycle the entire distance, from the 23-year young Douglas Brain to the retired 62-year-old Ruud Veken, not forgetting the indomitable Dutch rider Ms. Hanneke Breebaart.

The first Paris-Dakar by Bike is finished with a celebration dinner along the shores of the Atlantic Ocean. The soothing sounds of the waves and the satisfaction of a major physical challenge completed encourage the riders to forget sore muscles, the tough stages in the Pyrenees and Atlas Mountains, the headwind on the flats and the heat in the Sahara. During the next few days the participants leave Dakar for home with memories of what for most was the trip of a lifetime.

A new group of cyclists will leave from the Eiffel Towel on September 9, 2007, and the tour will end Novembver 17, 2007. You can be one of them!


Tour information (fees quoted are for 2007):

Full "Paris Dakar by Bike":
- Start: : Paris, September 9th, 2007
- Finish : Dakar, November 17th, 2007
- Duration : 70 days
- Entrée fee : € 4900,-

It is also possible to ride a section of the tour. For instance only the European of the African section. Contact the organization for other possibilities.

Europe section:
- Start : Paris, September 9th, 2007
- Finish : Algeciras, October 7th, 2007
- Duration : 29 days
- Entry Fee : € 2.400

Africa section:
- Start : Algeciras, October 8th, 2007
- Finish : Dakar, November 17th, 2007
- Duration : 41 days
- Entry Fee : € 3.300

Visit the website www.bike-dreams.com to request the brochure or to read about participating as a team or for a shorter section.

Contact : Wilbert Bonné
Address : Bike Dreams
Marktstraat 11
6041 EN Roermond
The Netherlands

Telephone : +31 (0) 475 311047
Fax : +31 (0) 84 2256790
Email : info@bike-dreams.com
Website : www.bike-dreams.com


The people of the Sahara...
Some of the fondest memories will be of the people of the Sahara...


PHOTO CREDITS: Bike Dreams,
Panoramic photo of Carcassonne courtesy of Gites de vacances, gite@acsby.com


© 2007 ROMAR TRAVEL GUIDES