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Marrakech is a unique city with a strong cultural and religious identity combined with innovative architecture. It is sometimes referred to as the 'Red City', and it doesn't take one long to see why. From the main city to the villages within the Atlas Mountains one is struck by the consistent reddish color of the majority of houses, restaurants, mosques and other buildings
The Old and the New:
The center of Marrakech is essentially split into two parts by a wall which surrounds the 'old city', also known as the Medina.
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The Medina was founded by Sultan Youssef Ben Tachfine in the Middle Ages and encompasses a more traditional Moroccan lifestyle than is found in the more cosmopolitan new city.Leaving the Medina through one of the nineteen gates in the wall is like entering into a parallel universe. The other side of the wall is called Colonial Ville Nouvelle, built by the French in the mid twentieth Century. It offers a more modern European type of lifestyle marked by trendy boutiques and boulevards.
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The Colonial New City:
One of the main attractions worth visiting in Colonial Ville Nouvelle is Majorelle Garden, a twelve-acre botanic landscape designed by French painter Jaque Majorelle (1886--1962) in the 1920's and 30's as a haven and residence. It was later owned by fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent and now has a stone structure as a memorial to him. The garden contains a number of beautiful features, from bamboo groves to lily ponds to abundantly different types of cacti.
However, the most spectacular feature for many would be the striking cobalt blue paint used to ornament fountains, plant pots, the outside of the garden's museum and the pavilion. The bold color creates contrast within the garden and adds extra beauty to this Art Deco scene.
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The Mania of the Medina:
For a more authentic Moroccan experience one has to leave this garden and the cultured civilization of the new city and re-enter the mania of the Medina. The bustling and crazy life within its walls is both fascinating and amusing if not a little overwhelming at times. The principal point of interest is a big open space known as the Jemaa el Fna, which is like a fairground offering many unusual entertainments.
For those who are into body decoration they can visit one of the many men and woman specializing in Henna tattoos, particularly for the hands. These are pretty and decorative but perhaps not so practical if you are returning to work in the near future. In addition, if one is partial to mystical interpretation, fortune tellers are standing by to predict one's future.
For the braver among us there are several snake charmers to be found in the square hypnotizing cobras by playing wind instruments. One should be prepared not to go too close though, unless prepared to be accosted by several of the many hawkers insistent on draping a snake around your neck for the purpose of making you a souvenir Polaroid photo of the event.
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There is also an opportunity in the Jemaa el Fna to buy some of the local delicacies, ranging from mint tea leaves and dried fruit to snails which are cooked on the spot in one of the standing stalls. Some of the earliest stalls to open are the orange juice carts. The oranges, used to make the juice, come from numerous orange trees which can be spotted all over the city, even lining the main streets. The taste is perfect, not too sour and not too
sweet and far better than any orange juice bought in a carton.
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In addition to the stalls there are a number of 'invaluable' services available. For those who suffer from toothache a tooth puller is on hand to tend to the problem. I call this invaluable because what may seem like a gloomy prospect for you or me, the reality is that for many poor people in Marrakech who can't afford to visit the dentist, a tooth puller offers the only other treatment option.
For more significant medical problems, one also can visit the "Medicine Man". Without a pill or drug in sight, he sells a selection of natural remedies and potions to treat various ailments. It's an option to visiting your physician.
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Jemaa el Fna at Night:
All these activities occur during the day, but the open space is much more lively and busy in the evening once the sun has gone down. At this time the many acrobats, musicians, dancers and even comedians appear, quickly surrounded by large crowds of locals around the entertainment.
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Exploring the Souks:
During the day time, one can venture off from the Jemaa el Fna and explore the maze of Souks situated down many narrow streets in close proximity to the main open space.
Here where artisans have plyed their trades since ancient times, one can buy local produce from blacksmiths, weavers, hatters, tanners and carpenters. Hundreds of original and charming items are on sale, and one may have difficulty choosing from the many pots, jewelry, bags, carpets, pastries and other bits and pieces.
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Scepticism is a good tool to take with you when shopping in the Souks. There is no uncertainty in observing that the people of Marrakesh are extremely friendly, but it pays to be wary, as these natives have no hesitation when it comes to taking advantage of naïve tourists.
This occurs all over the city when calling a taxi to booking a tour trip, and the Souks are no exception. These salesman are not dissimilar to others like them around the world, bartering with visitors who are less familiar with the value of produce in a foreign country. One should be aware that they will attempt to charge very high prices and commit their best efforts into persuading you why you have found a great deal. With this in mind it, is a fun experience and a must for those who love shopping.
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Eating Out:
If you like your food and are open to new tastes, you will also enjoy eating out in
Marrakesh. In most of the restaurants, within the Medina at least, it is better to order the traditional Moroccan food as their efforts at cooking other food such as pasta is not always up to scratch. |
One of the classic dishes is called Tajine, a Moroccan casserole containing chicken and olives preserved in lemon. Tajine can also be cooked with vegetables and other meats such as lamb or beef.
Ordering a cocktail or beer when eating out is not encouraged since the majority of restaurants do not serve alcohol. There is no need to panic though because there are a few select restaurants which have bypassed this rule. One of these is called "Le Marrakchi", a restaurant with a pleasing atmosphere overlooking the Jemaa el Fna and predominantly frequented by Westerners. It even supplies entertainment in the form of Belly Dancers, not a typical occurrence elsewhere in Marrakech and probably frowned upon by most as disrespectful to their Islamic culture.
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Dodging Traffic and such:
Provided one is not bitten by a Cobra Marrakech is a safe place to be. Except, that is, when one is crossing the roads. I imagined encountering a number of hazards in Marrakech but I never expected mopeds to be top of the list.
This is the case all over the city but more so in the Medina. Stepping onto the narrow streets for the first time I was left mildly stunned as bikes came out of nowhere at breakneck speeds, cornering me from all directions and beeping their horns. The drivers take no prisoners here ,and an indifference towards the pedestrian is evident as tourists and locals are forced to either find a space to leap out of the way or face the prospect of being run over.
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Relaxing Afterwards:
Marrakech can be chaotic at times but it also offers numerous modes of relaxation. Primarily, one could head to one of the many massage parlors positioned all over the city and indulge in the Moroccan Hammam ritual.
This is a Turkish style steam bath in which one is meant to sweat and then be exfoliated to remove the dirt. One should be prepared for a hard scrubbing as the girls working in the Hammam make sure every scale of dry skin is removed from your body. Be ready for another shock and a possible mouthful of unwanted water as bucketsful are hurled at you without warning to remove the debris from your skin. Follow this with a massage, and it is the perfect way to dispose of the tension accumulated throughout the day.
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Escaping the City's Frenetic Activity:
Alternatively, one may choose to escape the city completely and enjoy some fresh air in the Atlas Mountains. Guides will escort you along the best hiking routes through the hills and mountain villages, depending on whether you want to attempt a six hour hike or a shorter two- to three-hour walk. |
The views are spectacular, and for those who want to extend their time here by staying a couple of days in the mountains, more challenging expeditions are available.
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The Riads:
A simpler way of escaping the noise of the city is to return to one’s Riad. These are vast in number and hidden among the many winding and narrow streets of the Medina. The atmosphere is both calm and peaceful and the rooms clean and comfortable, provided one of a reasonable standard is chosen. The luxurious ones can be quite expensive.
Being tucked away from the main streets is what contributes to their serenity and gives them an edge over staying in a hotel. The architectural design is also something special. The Riads are typically built around a central courtyard with an open top roof looking over the city. This design allows them to be spacious and open despite being in enclosed locations.
From my own personal experience there is nothing more magical or relaxing after a day exploring this intriguing city than soaking up the sun on the roof top of the Riad while the Moslem call to prayer sounds over speakers across the city. This is a magical part of the charisma which makes Marrakech a wonderful and extraordinary place and well worth visiting for anyone who enjoys being immersed in a new and unfamiliar culture. |
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African Continent
