MARRAKECH-SALLOUM

By Habeeb Salloum



	Situated in the middle of a fertile plain and incorporating many enclosed and open gardens, Marrakech is surrounded by huge olive, orange and palm orchards and is overshadowed by the snow-peaked Djebel Toubkal, the highest mountain in Morocco at 4,177 m (13,700 ft). One of the most fascinating and mysterious of cities, this ancient metropolis has a fairyland setting. Its splendid pinkish structures, colorfully dressed inhabitants, ageless craftsmen at work, historic remains and its renowned Jamaa el Fna Square complement its location and make it a city of memorable attractions.

One of the country's four Imperial Capitals, Marrakech has had a glorious past. To many it is known as, "Empress of the Sahara". Labeled the "Pearl of Morocco's South", its name was distorted by the English to 'Morocco', the name of the country today.

Marrakech was founded in the 11th century by Yusuf ibn Tashfin, the first Almoravide sultan, as the capital of his newly established empire. In the ensuing years, it was enlarged and beautified with fine palaces and mosques by the subsequent Almoravide rulers and those of the Almohade, and Saadian Dynasties. Today, with more than 1,500,000 inhabitants the city has expanded until it has become the third largest in Morocco. Yet, it is the vestiges from its illustrious past that continue to endow Marrakech with its unique identity.

	The Medina:


	The Medina (the older part of town) is defined by almost 10 km (6mi) of ochre mud walls three stories high that encircle buildings built from this same mud and pinkish stone. That is why it has been known through the ages as the "Red City". Within its ramparts, once entered by 12 gates of which 8 remain, are countless historic remains and more color and excitement than can be found in many cities in the world. Topping the historic structures inside the Medina is the Koutoubia, an ochre colored stone minaret 77 m (253 ft) high which overshadows the city. Its attached mosque contains 112 columns of brick covered with stucco. The Minbar is made from carved cedar wood inlaid with mosaic panels and was brought in the 12th century from Cordova to Marrakech by the Almoravides when they occupied Muslim Spain. The Minbar, a corruption of the English word mimbar, is a structure developed from the raised seat used by judges in pre-Islamic times. Visitors can only view the mosque from the outside. Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter.

Jamaa el Fna:

Above all, what has made Marrakech a true tourist Mecca is Jamaa el Fna, one of the liveliest and most famous entertainment spots in the world. As tour guides lead their flock into the Square, they like to explain, "Without 'Jamaa el Fna', the symbol of Marrakech, the city would be just another Moroccan town but, of course, a beautiful town. Jamaa el Fna gives it its special aura."

Jamaa el Fna, is the heart and soul of Marrakech, and the city's main tourist attraction. Listed by UNESCO as a "Masterpiece of World Heritage", it is a world unto itself. Giving the city its character, this bustling square is a chaotic outdoor circus which can hold up to 10,000 people. For centuries it has been this square in Marrakech--the largest and most written about entertainment and trading spot in Morocco--where people have come to eat, trade and be healed or entertained.



	Here, camera-carrying tourists rub shoulders with colorfully dressed Berber men and women from the High Atlas Mountains, intermixed with other Moroccans attired in a spectrum of costumes that ranges from the traditional to the very modern. Day in and day out, from sunrise when Jamaa el Fna comes to life to long after sunset, this picturesque scene intensifies until it reaches its climax at about 9 P.M. During the day the square is dominated by carts and stalls selling freshly squeezed orange juice, dried fruits, spices and nuts. As the day fades into the evening the square's activity increases and it becomes crowded. Now, the aroma of grilled meats fills the air as people flock in droves to the newly setup food stalls to feast on barbecued kababs, fish and other traditional Moroccan foods. Well fed visitors and locals move through the square, and watch the activity unfold around them.



	The square is home to seemingly endless choices of what to see and. Youth from Mauritania perform breathless acrobatic feats; primitive dentists display tables of extracted teeth; herbalists hawk their bizarre concoctions; ancient men emotionally spin tales from the Arabian Nights; magicians perform their tricks; monkey trainers feature their trained animals; fortune tellers ply their trade; folkloric dancers and musicians do their best to attract the crowds; old ladies ready to henna or tattoo willing customers call out for attention; snake charmers wind reptiles around their necks; mystics preach about the horrors of hellfire; and vendors offer a variety of articles, from handmade goods, dyes and perfumes to all types of clothing. After a performance, all a visitor needs is a pocketful of small change when the hat is passed around. After exploring the square, many strollers rest awhile atop the nearbye Café Glacier or Café Argana and watch the activities in the square below. From these high points, there is a full view of Jamaa el Fna and its activity. The world of color below helps tired visitors forget their fatigue after hours of sightseeing. Visitors cannot really know or feel Jamaa el Fna unless they stroll in it for at least a few hours, stopping here and there to sample its offerings. The best time to do this is late Sunday afternoon when the massive crowds make the walk hectic but much more memorable. Originally, in the Middle Ages, Jamaa el Fna was not a tourist attraction, but only a trading souk or marketplace, like the numerous others in Morocco. Some historians believe that it was once a place where the ruling sultan displayed the severed heads of his enemies, hence, its name "Assembly of the Dead". However, it is more likely that the real translation of the name, Jamaa el Fna, is "The Mosque that has vanished". In the past, the dense mass of humanity led to garbage and dirt, which has now been virtually eliminated. City officials responsible for cleanliness and price regulation now regularly inspect the food offered in the square. Only the noise of packed human beings destroys somewhat the square's romantic aura. Only a few beggars and pestering young men who offer to guide or take one to the cheapest shop in town now work the square. Real criminal activity is rare. A tourist need not fear the immense gathering of people.

	Some Important Sites in Old Marrakech
	Medrassa ben Youssef - an exquisitely decorated medieval institute, once the largest Qur`anic school in North Africa; Saadian Tombs, modeled after the interior of the Alhambra in Spain, they form Morocco's most lavish mausoleum of sepulchral silence; Bahia Palace, an opulent fairytale rambling structure of fountains, gardens and tiled rooms, reminiscent of Arab Spain; Dar Si Said, housing the Museum of Moroccan Arts; and the Aguedal and Menara Gardens, vast orchards with man-made ponds and pavilions, built on the edge of the city as pleasure resorts by the sultans of long ago.

	Modern Marrakech


	When visitors have had their fill of Moroccan history, architecture and ancient streets, there is the modern side of Marrakech to be explored. The newer part of the city, called Gueliz, joined to the old city by the Avenue Muhammad V, has excellent gardens, golf courses, nightclubs, and discos. Most hotels have swimming pools and entertainment and, in the nearby towering hills, the more active visitor can hunt or mountain-climb. However, the most affluent section of the new city is along Muhammad VI Avenue, the longest avenue in Morocco The town has spread beyond its ancient walls into a section called Ville Nouvelle where most modern homes, official buildings, businesses and luxury hotels are located. Its wide, fruit-laden, lemon, orange- and palm-lined avenues, edged by attractive pink and ochre houses and spacious gardens give it a picturesque and inviting aura. The traditional architectural design, evolved to fit into the modern world but maintaining the attractive color of these structures imbue modern Marrakech with its special appeal.

	National Folk Arts Festival:

	On the other hand, if one wants to savor the best of the rich Moroccan folklore, the time to visit Marrakech is in June. Every year at that time the city holds a National Folks Arts Festival. Organized amid the ruins of El Badi Palace with its 100 fountains, the festival encompasses the African, Arab and Berber heritage of Morocco. The entertainers include hundreds of acrobats, dancers, musicians, singers, horsemen and other performers who come to entertain from every corner of the country. Based on the traditions of Morocco's illustrious past, the festival is a live homage to this historic city. No one who attends this fantastic celebration and, at the same time, explores the town, will easily forget the reality of a Marrakech that has inspired writers and poets throughout the centuries.

IF YOU GO / Facts About Marrakech:

1) Nationals of most countries do not need visas - only valid passports.

2) If you know French, it is easy to get around in Morocco. Almost everyone speaks French, but a good number also know English.

3) Unit of currency in Morocco is the dirham. At present, it fluctuates at around 8 to a dollar. The Euro is now usually used in Morocco. 1 euro equals 10.50 dirhims. Exchange money at banks or hotels - rates are almost all the same.

4) When traveling out of Marrakech, trains are the most comfortable and reasonably priced – from Casablanca to Marrakech $!5. first-class. Buses are inexpensive - CTM the best. Small autos, with unlimited mileage and fully insured, rent for about $30. per day and up, fully insured. Petit Taxis are metered and very reasonable - always ask driver to turn on the meter. If not metered, negotiate fares before entering the cab. See Marrakech by hop on-hop off bus. The cost is about $16.

5) Restaurants and other food outlets are inexpensive. One can eat a complete meal of the day for from $8. to $15. in good restaurants. In top restaurants meals cost from $15. and up. One of the best restaurants is Palais Gharnata in the old city.

6) For reasonably priced accommodations in Marrakech see website: http://www.asiarooms.com/morocco/marrakech.html If a budget traveller, stay in is the very clean 2 star Hotel Amalou. The cost of room for one is $50 per day.

7) Nightlife abounds in Marrakech. There are cabarets, discos and a casino. However, the best is a fantasia held at Chez Ali - an extravaganza of hundreds of dancers and horsemen with a grand feast that costs $50 per person.

8) The mass of hustlers that once infested the tourist spots have been greatly diminished by the strong arm of the law. There are only a limited number left

9) Tips are expected for every service - always carry small change.

10) Bargain for all tourist items - never shop with guide - his cut is about 30%.

11) At night, avoid dark alleyways. Morocco is safer than many other countries, but muggers still stalk the lonely streets.

12) Marrakech is one of the rare cities in the world that has acceptable climate for visitors year-round.

13) All prices quoted are in U.S. & Canadian Dollars. Both fluctuated around the same rate during my last visit.

For Further Information, Contact:

Moroccan National Tourist Office: Suite 1460, 2001 rue University, Montreal, Quebec, Canada HA 2A6. Tel: +1 514 842 8111/2. Fax: +1 514 842 5316

Moroccan Tourist Office: 20 East 46th St., Suite 1201, New York, NY 10017.

Tel.: 212-557-2520. Fax: 212-949-8148. Web Site: http://www.tourism-in-morocco.com/

Photo Credits Habeeb Salloum, La Mamounia Hotel, Wikipedia.


© 2008 ROMAR TRAVEL GUIDES