KENYA: A Safari Primer


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African Continent

By Brian Jorg

Perhaps no other place on Earth conjures up the spirit of the wild quite the way East Africa does. Long known for its abundance of wildlife, Maasai culture, and spectacular wildlife migrations, Kenya lies directly in the heart of it all.

Kenya gained its independence from the UK in 1963 after about 80 years of British colonial rule, and many of the Western European influences can be seen today. English is the official language, and Swahili is the National language. The vast majority of the 34 million Kenyans rely on subsistence agriculture. Most foreign income is obtained from tea and coffee exports, and tourism.

Nairobi:

Nairobi, the capital, was founded in 1899 by the British as a stop along the railroad. Today, it has grown to be the largest city in Kenya with over 3 million inhabitants.

Downtown Nairobi has the look and feel of many modern cities. Bustling streets and towering sky scrapers define the city center. I do not recommend driving here if you are not familiar with the road system. I also recommend you have a guide with you if you want to explore the city. Personal safety can be a concern in urban areas.

As with many large cities in developing countries, there is ample poverty. Large, makeshift shanty towns can be seen as you leave the city for your safari destination.

Safari Life:

The typical safari day begins with a 6:00 a.m. wake-up call. Grab a cup of coffee and a light snack as you prepare to board your mini van. Departure is usually around 6:30 a.m.

Standard equipment I recommend includes your field guides, binoculars, camera, and light snacks. All vans are usually equipped with bottled water.

As you head out into the bush, the guides work very hard to spot wildlife for you. The vans usually contain two-way radios, which allow the guides to acquire information on animal locations from other guides. This is extremely helpful in finding shy animals, such as the leopard.

The roads are bumpy, but the excitement of seeing the abundant wildlife distracts you from the bone jarring potholes. Your guides will name the animals, as well as, bird life for you but you will soon become an expert yourself.

Be sure to inform your guide as to what you want to see, what are your favorite animals, etc. They will work very hard to make sure you get the most out of your safari. When asked why they are so accommodating, they reply, "If you have a great time, you will go back and recommend it to your friends".

After you return from the morning game drive around 9:00 a.m., you will be served a hearty American breakfast.

Depending on your schedule, you may have another game drive, or you can relax on the grounds of your lodge. Since many of the lodge facilities are fenced, you can stroll inside the compound and still see many spectacular bird and wildlife species. Olive Baboons are common around these lodges.

Buffet style lunch is usually served around 1:00 pm..

The afternoon game drives usually begin around 4:00 p.m., and will last till about 6:30 p.m. As Kenya is bisected by the Equator, this is also when it starts getting dark. Most game reserves have strict rules regarding being out of the park by dark.

When you return, a sit down dinner will be ready for you and your group. Most visitors will share stories from the day as they talk into the night. Many visitors will try to keep in touch with loved ones and friends at home via e-mail. While every lodge should now be equipped with internet access, unreliable power sources sometimes make it a bit tricky.

Samburu/Buffalo Springs National Reserves:

Lying just north of the town of Isiolo is Samburu National Reserve. Along with Buffalo Springs, these national reserves straddle the Ewaso River. The Ewaso is the lifeblood of the region.

Both reserves are located in a semi-arid region of the country. Samburu has a much different look than the lush grassland of the Maasai Mara. Rocky, dry soils can only support the toughest of plant life. Everything growing here has thorns to protect their foliage from grazing herbivores. Only near the river does the landscape begin to green up substantially.

Even with this harsh environment, the land has a beauty that can not be described. The abundant wildlife is easily observed here. Large herds of elephants can be found, as well reticulated giraffe, Beisa Oryx, and the gerenuk. This odd little gazelle has the distinct habit of standing on its hind legs to browse on woody vegetation.

The Samburu Serena Lodge, within the reserve, offers a nice respite during the day between game drives. Situated on the Ewaso River, wildlife is still abundant within the compound, which is fenced to keep out the large predators commonly found on the reserve.

Vervet monkeys - small, mischievous primates - are quite common on the grounds of the lodge. While being a focal point of amusement for tourists, their comical behavior is always fun to watch, but they become bolder and more aggressive if their behavior is left unchecked. Lodge staff does work to keep them from becoming a nuisance.

The afternoon high temperature for Samburu averages from 73-82ºF throughout the year. The humidity remains low, and allows for a pleasant trip. Packing light clothes, and perhaps a sweater for the morning will prove handy.

Lake Nakuru:

Lake Nakuru is well known for its wildlife, and it's most famous for its flamingos. This shallow, alkaline lake attracts hundreds of thousands of both greater and lesser flamingos. It is an impressive sight to stand on the shores of Lake Nakuru and see the spectacle. The experience will stay with you for some time.

The Baboon Cliffs is a viewing area well above the lake. This is a great spot to see the pink clouds of flamingos below. You will most likely see hyrax scurrying amongst the rocks around you.

It is here that you may get a bush lunch. A meal prepared for your group in the shade of the Fever tree, or yellow acacia. This is one of the most enjoyable experiences you can have on safari. The food is prepared under the watchful eye of an armed park ranger. They are posted to make sure any uninvited carnivores do not show up to join the feast.

Lake Nakuru also has a number interesting land mammals as well. Colobus monkeys can be seen around the lakes high in the trees. Waterbucks and hippos can occasionally be seen there as well.

White Rhinos can be found grazing in the open areas of the park, along with zebra, giraffe, and a host of antelope species. Leopards are found here as well, but are much shyer, and you are lucky to get a good look at one.

The challenge today, however, is with the ever increasing human population, pollutants have entered the lake, and occasionally massive die offs have resulted.

The Maasai Mara:

The Maasai Mara is the jewel of the Kenyan Safari. Situated in the rift valley, broad, rolling hills of lush grassland extend in every direction. The Mara River, famous for its wildlife crossings during the annual migration, runs through the middle of the reserve.

Even outside of the migration, when travel and lodging are much more affordable, wildlife abounds in this landscape. Herds of elephants can be found roaming the plains. Zebra, wildebeest and a host of antelope can be found. Cheetah resting on the giant termite mounds, lounge in the noon day sun. Topi, an odd looking antelope, can be found in herds of 10-20 animals.

The Mara Serena Lodge is one of many lodging options at the Mara. Located on a ridge above the Mara River, the view from the lodge is impressive. Grunts from the hippos in the river below fill the night. Hyrax, a small relative of the elephant, scurry around the grounds ahead of you. Dwarf mongoose run in small group pool side, feeding on large beetles that are found in the landscaping beds. Bird feeders attract a large collection of the local winged wonders. Robin-chats, brown bulbuls and go-away birds can be commonly seen within the compound.

The game drives here are similar to others around the country, with one exception. Typically, guides need to stay on the roads when viewing wildlife. In the Mara, guides are allowed to leave the road to approach wildlife for a closer view, but not allowed to drive randomly throughout the Mara looking for wildlife.

With the abundant wildlife, you will get good looks at all the common species. Your guide will know with each species, how closely you can approach without disturbing the animal. They will also consider the direction of the sun so you will get the best viewing opportunity. When you have viewed the animal enough, and everyone has taken enough photos, just say, "Twende", meaning. "let's go" in Swahili.

The days on the Mara are comfortable. With an altitude of 5,000-6,400 ft, the average temperature range is about 50 degrees F for a low to about 80 degrees F for the high. A sweater is a good idea for the morning game drive, not your first impression of equatorial Africa.

The Mara Culture:

With a visit to the Mara, take the time to visit a Mara village. The culture of these people is fascinating. To the Maasai, cattle are everything. They believe all the cattle in the world belong to them. Besides being the source for their livelihood, it is also a reflection of wealth. The more cattle you own, the richer a man is considered to be. They live in harmony with the land, raising their cattle and goats in the middle of a whole host of carnivores. They do work very hard to preserve their traditional lifestyle, as the modern world closes in on them.

When you visit, you will most likely deal with representative if the village, who will greet you and collect a nominal fee. This fee goes to the village, but you will then be allowed to photograph the rituals they will perform for you. Traditional dances, from both the men and woman of the tribe, will be performed for you, as well as starting fire and other traditional skills.

The village itself is a fascinating arrangement. Built in a circular fashion, called an enkang, the cattle and goats are corralled in the center of the village. The living quarters are the outer ring. All of this arrangement is separated by a massive wall of acacia branches. Acacia is a local tree that has a considerable arrangement of thorns along its branches.

The small houses here are made of a mixture of mud and cow dung. Being a resourceful people, they use what they have. These are temporary, as the occasionally need to move to follow their cattle.

You will also get to view all the wares produced by the tribe. There are some great mementos to purchase to remind you of your trip. Any haggling over a price will probably be through one of the younger members of the tribe. Many of the older members here do not speak English. Be respectful and fair in your dealings.

Traveling in Kenya:

When traveling to Kenya, a visa is required by US citizens (as of the time of this writing). Malaria pills, as well as, a yellow fever shot (good for ten years) are considered prudent. As in most developing countries, hepatitis immunization is also a safe idea.

The weather in Kenya is divided into two seasons - wet or dry. The 'Long Rains' typically occur from the end of March through May. The 'Short Rains' usually arrive in November. The rest of the year are dry periods. If you are traveling specifically to see wildlife, you will want to travel during the dry seasons when grass is shorter, and the animals congregate around water holes daily to get a drink.

The spectacular wildebeest migration takes place on the Mara July till September.

Kenya, being transected by the equator, is not as hot as you would think. Much of the country is a broad plateau, with the average altitude being rising between 5,000-7,000 feet. Mornings can be cool, with afternoons being warmer, and little humidity.

Summary:

A Kenya safari is a trip of a lifetime. Very few places can show you both the diversity, as well as abundance of wildlife. The cultural experiences of the tribal clans are also a cherished opportunity. By all means, plan a trip to experience this wonderful part of our world.

Brian Jorg is a photographer and public speaker based in Cincinnati, Ohio USA. He can be contacted through his website,

www.brianjorg.com

PHOTO CREDITS: Brian Jorg


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