Flight: Ethiopian Airlines is one of the nicest rides I've had, which is saying a lot for a thirteen-hour flight or longer.

Rafting: If and when the Omo is opened to river travel again, rafting is the absolute best way to visit. But it's not a trip for the feint of heart even at it's best. Only a few hundred people have been down the Omo since it was first run by Sobek expeditions in the early 1970's.

Vehicles: You don't really want to drive. Driving in Ethiopia is truly for the brave. Addis Ababa is as congested with traffic as any large metropolitan city, maybe worse because the stoplights don't often work. You cross an intersection by taking it, usually several cars at a time, the biggest and boldest winning.

The highways outside of Addis are cluttered with people and animals, some of them traffic savvy and some not. People sometimes sit down or sleep in the middle of the road.

Buses, trucks and other cars (very few) drive incredibly fast, passing on the crest of hills and on blind corners. The roads traveling the Omo Valley are mainly rough dirt track. Stretches of asphalt are pleasant, but short lived. Everything in Ethiopia is under construction.

We obtained the services of a first class Cruiser and an experienced driver for $170 a day from Village Ethiopia.

Rainy Season: I could never get a straight answer about when the actual rainy season in the Omo Valley is. Some say March, April, May and June. Others say June through October. We had rains every day in Addis in September and as far south as Jinka. Beyond that the country is parched. Make serious inquiries about local conditions while planning your trip. Avoid the rains.

Health: Malaria is serious business in the Omo country. Take your pills religiously. Before going, check with your government's health authorities for the innoculations they recommend when traveling to the African back country.

Camp Grounds: Camping is not what you think. Camps are mainly developed sites, some less developed then others. For the most part it’s rather akin to being in a shabby KOA, only you have the opportunity of being offed by a critter during a nightly run to the shitter or of having your gear plundered by a baboon. After a time we began to appreciate the privacy the camps afforded from the press of curious locals. And after a further time, when we could, we just blew off the tents and stayed in a room. The cost was nearly the same.

Personal Space: There is none. See above. Ethiopians believe that a lone person is a good target for the evil eye. But not to worry. A visitor is never ever alone. It becomes commonplace to eat your morning cereal while surrounded. Sharing is good. Even just stopping a Land Cruiser along the road draws a crowd. You are the biggest bit of entertainment to pass through.

Photography: Pulling out a camera can cause a small riot. Real slice of life candid moments are difficult to get because the subject either becomes aware and turns away, motions you off or poses with a huge smile. It's usually only moments before a half dozen children or adults have blocked the shot, stepped in front of the lens or are standing in front of it peering at the front element. You just have to be patient and prepare to be exasperated many times. You will be asked to take a picture and then charged for it. See below.

Money and Bargaining: People expect money at nearly every turn. Especially for having their photo taken. Some people just smile and think it's good fun; others will pester you to death for bier notes. Even the subjects of candid photographs will bill you afterwards. Taking pictures without asking first is not only rude but will get you in trouble. I found the best way to take pictures was to just hang out in a place for awhile until the newness wore off, maybe even hang out for a day, until people relaxed and went about their business, aware of me taking pictures but not really caring. When I put the camera down they would either raise fingers denoting the amount or go on back to their business.

Carry lots of small denomination bier notes and make sure they're clean and crisp. The tribes will accept nothing less. Merchants will make change and give you the worst of their collection.

The Mursi are an example of the money for pictures business gone completely bonkers. They count the clicks even on a motor drive and there is rarely anything candid. Sneaking pictures will cause trouble. Even negotiating the price can cause trouble. Our guide, Michael, was struck with a gun butt in a Mursi camp for some minor offense.

We originally brought goods to trade with the tribes and thought we wouldn't need much money. Which is not to say you can't trade stuff: it's just that trading is not what you expect it to be like: the, "I'll swap you these cool earrings for a bracelet kind of thing". Money's what they like and trinkets can be mainly used to sweeten the deal or as good friend giveaways. In the far-flung places, fishhooks are a big hit along with razor blades and safety pins. Max traded many fishhooks in exchange for photographs.

Translators and guides: Both are so important that it's critical to choose well. Whoever you rent your vehicle from will have a line on this. Ask around on travel sites and search the web before you leave home. Any ferengi just walking around will be accosted by potential guides; it's better to already have one.

Other Stuff: Bug dope, Sunscreen, toilet paper, water and hand sanitizer. Take lots of each.

Guys with AK-47's are generally right about everything.

Do go to the Mercado in Addis. It is an amazing place where you can buy anything and everything. But hold onto your stuff; the pickpockets are fast and no matter where you go in the Mercado you are in a crowd. The best way to negotiate the sprawling Mercado is with a guide.

Keep your toes and fingers out of the rivers for the most part.