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Ethiopia is a land of stunningly beautiful wilderness, fertile green valleys, and endless ragged mountain peaks. If you want to get off the beaten tourist track and visit tribal people who stepped out of the pages of National Geographic, still living as they did hundreds of years ago, come to Ethiopia.
If you yearn to explore the ancient "cradle of mankind", the only country in Africa never to be colonized, then put aside your pre-conceived images and prepare to be surprised. Ethiopia will be nothing like you expected. |
 We are the only campers in Mago National Park in the Omo Valley region of southern Ethiopia. Few foreigners visit remote Mago National Park. This is possibly because anything resembling a road stops at Jinka, 33 kilometers before you enter the Park boundaries. It took 1½ hours for our tough Landcruiser 4-wheel drive to gyrate itself deep down into the valley, over boulder strewn, rain-rutted tracks.
We settle in to the tented campground. Outside my tent a man squats, leaning against an acacia tree. He is swathed in a mosquito net and armed with a pre-World War II Chinese rifle. The full moon plays hide and seek between black clouds and the dense leaves of the forest canopy. Every few minutes, sheets of lightening sear across the African night sky. The man's name is Barr; and for 11 years he has been a guard within Mago National Park.
One does not camp in Mago without an armed guard; I have paid Barr the equivalent of $20 U.S., and for the next 48 hours he is my protection against the lions, elephants, hyenas, baboons, warthogs and leopards that reside here. He will also be my guide tomorrow, when I plunge even further off the map. Tomorrow I will search out the Mursi tribal people. Wild, nomadic and considered the most unique and naïve tribal culture left in Africa, the Mursi are the reason I have come this far.
Barr tilts his head back to check gathering clouds in the sky, and then issues a calm warning. "If the rain is heavy tonight," his soft voice drifts toward me with the campfire smoke, "we will not get out of here." It rains heavily this night.
Next morning, Barr is willing to attempt the slick red mud of savanna and bush land. It is a four to six hour round trip to the Mursi village--because they are nomadic, one is never quite sure where to find them.
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The Mursi People and Other Tribes You May Encounter:
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A tribe of under 10,000, the Mursi live in nomadic isolation just east of the Omo River. The Mursi's most obvious identification is the lip plate worn by married women. The lower lip is, over a period of time, slowly distended outwards by insertion of a clay plate. An incision is made under the lip to allow for maximal stretching. The theory is that with something resembling a hockey puck careening out of her mouth, the married woman is safe from any adulterous advances. With women of a marriageable age, the further the lip is distended, the higher the bride price.
The Mursi, Karo and several other tribes also still practice body scarring. Intricate patterns are carved in the torso and arms, and then filled with ash. As they heal, the wounds elevate themselves into the sort of scars that Westerners would pay big money to have removed by plastic surgeons. Shaving artistic patterns through the hair is stylish as well. If you go, take along a stock of straight razor blades to give away and you'll be the most popular tourist around.
These tribal people still live as they have forever, following their cattle and subsistence farming. These days they are able to supplement their meager existence by asking for money to have their pictures taken, but believe me, with the few tourists that venture through here, no one is getting rich. The bargaining process is unique. A price will be negotiated, the photos or videos will be taken, and then you will be asked for more money. Prepare yourself for this - Western negotiating standards do not apply. You are in tribal country --respect their ways and you will take home one-of-a-kind photographs that are priceless memories of another world.
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If the 40-degree temperature in the Omo Valley is a tad too hot for you, then head north to Arba Minch. The hotel patio is the best spot in town to relax… knock back one of several brands of excellent Ethiopian beer and add some more sunset photos to your travel portfolio.
For an exhilarating day trip from Arba Minch, grab your guide and that trusty 4-wheel drive and head 1600 meters up into the mountains to visit Chencha, home to the Dorze people. The narrow, switchback roads may get your heart pounding, but the cool mountain breezes will keep you refreshed. The Dorze are famous for their 'beehive' bamboo and sorghum homes, which reach 12-meter high. These solid homes can last up to 40 years. The views are magnificent and twice weekly there is an immense and vibrant market. I estimated over 2,000 people were there the day I visited and I was the only tourist! The 40-kilometer trip will take about 2 hours each way.
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The Central Plateau and the Highlands: |
The most enjoyable parts of Ethiopia consist of its central plateau with an altitude of 2400 meters. The Highlands of Ethiopia contain 80% of Africa’s mountains - the Simien and Bale ranges offer more than 20 peaks that soar above 4000 meters.
For the water lover, Northern Ethiopia is home of the Blue Nile Falls--at 45 meters deep, it is just a bit shorter than Niagara Falls; the width will depend upon rainy season--it swells to 400 meters wide in September. The Blue Nile Gorge has been compared to the Grand Canyon in depth and size, with a depth of 1000 meters, and a width of 20 km, it is 600 km long.
The Southern Rift Valley has a string of 8 lakes: the resort favorite of Lake Langano has sandy beaches, safe swimming waters and the opacity of chocolate milk! The southern and western highlands boast the greatest expanse of indigenous forests in East Africa, and the whole country is a bird-lover’s delight, with over 850 species, and 23 of them endemic. Even in the congested capital of Addis Ababa, with a population of 3.5 million people, the vast, shady grounds of the state-run Ghion Hotel offers the best avian viewing in the area.
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 Addis Ababa is more than an unsophisticated third world city. For the new arrival acclimating to the unique ambiance and experiences that Ethiopia offers, there are choices of accommodations that range from international brand hotels to excellent local options. |
Addis Ababa is a sprawling, congested city of higgeldy-piggeldy streets, most unnamed. Ethiopians have as relaxed an attitude toward time as they do about giving directions. I doubt if there are any A-type personalities to be found. Pre-set appointments may happen or not. There is no sense of frustration amongst Ethiopians about this situation, and they truly do not understand the Westerners' need for accountability. A typical Ethiopian response to situations out of their control is a small shrug of the shoulders, a roll of the eyes heavenward and the gentle comment, "What can I do?" A little practice and you will get it down fast and disconnect yourself from your need to control your world.
Small blue and white busses and taxis are the best for travelers to get around in; confusion can arise because Ethiopians use the 'bus' and 'taxi' terms interchangeably. The larger yellow Mercedes of the former NTO (National Tour Organization) are more comfortable and mechanically reliable. None of the taxis are metered, so negotiate rates with all taxis before entering. Bus rates are standard, and if the collector tries to charge you too much, then someone on the bus will call him out.
There are quite a few interesting museums and City Tours are offered by all reliable tour operators. Once again, using a reliable tour operator will provide you with more success. Just asking the front desk clerk at the hotel will not be a guarantee that you will receive good service from her 13 year old second cousin, twice removed, who has never been to a museum and has no idea of how to find one.
The Ethiopian National Museum is where the original skeleton of 3.4-million-old Lucy is preserved. Lucy is currently touring a variety of United States museums for several years, but a cast of her is available for viewing at the Museum.
The Menelik Mausoleum houses the remains of many of the royal families from the time of Menelik II to the daughter of Haile Selassie.
The Addis Ababa Museum on Meskel Square is a photographic display of the historical, political, social and economic progress of the city.
The Lion of Judah monument is in front of the Addis Ababa train station. It depicts a lean, mean lion complete with crown and scepter. This statue was erected in 1930 to commemorate the coronation of Emperor Haile Selassie. During the Second World War, the Italians occupied Ethiopia for 5 years, and when they left, they took this monument as part of their loot. It spent the next 30 years in Rome. During the 1960's, it was returned to Ethiopia after many negotiations.
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North of Addis Ababa is the town of Lalibela - as beautiful as its name. Lalibela is one of several UNESCO World Heritage Sites (along with Gondar, the Simien Mountain National Park and Axum). It is the home to the greatest collection of monolith and semi monolith rock churches in Ethiopia. The Lalibela churches are considered by many to be the eighth wonder of the world. Built in the 12th century by King Lalibela, all are entirely hewn of one piece of rock, under the surface of the earth.
Engineers to this day are still uncertain how these churches were excavated and built from one piece of rock. The only explanation the Ethiopians can give is that "the angels helped". An interesting side trip from Lalibela is the cave church of Naktule'ab. The gloomy back of the cave houses several hundred skeletons of pilgrims who visited, never left, and died there.
Lalibela is part of the 'historic route' of Ethiopia and includes Gondar, with its 16th and 17th century castles, and Axum with antiquities dating back to the 4th century. |
 
Axum is the oldest and holiest city of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church and home to the stelae fields, solid granite obelisks over 20 meters high--taller even than similar ones in Egypt. The tallest ones are resting on the ground, allowing for a close up inspection of their mysteries. They are a magnificent testament to the advanced technology that Axum was noted for between the 1st and 7th centuries A.D. The stelae are carved with doors and windows, and are thought to have represented wealth and power.
Axum is commonly acknowledged by Ethiopians as being the home of the Queen of Sheba, who traveled to Jerusalem to meet King Solomon, and returned to Ethiopia to give birth to his son, Menelik. The descendants of that union were known as the Solomonic dynasty and provided an almost unbroken line of royalty which continued until Haile Selassie was overturned in the 1970's. Ethiopians firmly believe this; historians doubt it, but the details of the fable are far more interesting than anything the historians have proved.
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Back in Addis, make sure you take in some traditional Ethiopian singing and dancing. It is an urban adventure not to be missed. There are performances in most major hotels and larger nightclubs, but seek out some of the smaller local clubs for untainted, pure exhibitions. The soaring bamboo roof peaks high above, while the audience sits on low wooden stools covered with animal skins. Dance movement takes place mainly between the rib cage and the chin with the dancers isolating one section of muscles and making them vibrate as if plugged into an electrical outlet. It is zany, sensational and thrilling to watch. The female dancers spin their necks with such frightening speed that I am surprised there is not a lineup of chiropractic clinics nearby.
From spinning necks of the beautiful city girls, to lip plates of exotic tribal ones, this is a country like no other. There are not many tourists, but a great many smiles.
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African Continent